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I also swapped out the pickup rings, not so much because of the color but because the existing rings were pretty tall. The strings were actually getting pretty close to hitting the bridge pickup ring. I just happened to have a set on hand that fit a little better as well as matching the pickguard, so it was a stroke of luck that the colors actually matched. I might just make a wooden pickguard for my CC H150, for I really liked the old ones as well. They added a nice taste of "elegance" to the guitar! I still have an old 535 and an Eagle Classic with them.

That's one reason I liked the old wooden pickguards. I prefer the Heritage shape, and dislike the clunky plastic. Screw "vintage". I would probably change the pickup rings before the guard if I was worried about the color..

Thanks again for looking into this! I don't dislike the shape of Heritage pickguard. But the issue is the pickguard color not matching the pickup ring color... It's not really obvious on the standard models, but on CC models, the pickup ring color is almost like parchment. I guess it's probably more historically correct, but it's just too noticeable on the solid black guitar I have.

Oh this explains why one of the bridge posts looks taller on my guitar. I will definitely tighten them down when I swap the bridge. I like everything tight and solid. Thank you so much for the detailed information! That helps a lot!

I just checked into this, and it appears as though a WD LP pickguard can indeed be ordered without holes, but I would check to make sure that the dimensions are correct before ordering. I also noticed that @Lkdoghad ordered one from MojoAxe, and that thread can be found here: I'd probably call call or email the guy at MojoAxe while asking him specifically about the Heritage CC model. Perhaps Lkdog will pipe in here as well? Since I've had this CC H-150, I'm actually thinking of purchasing another one.......LOL. If I do, I'll likely talk with MojoAxe. EDIT: BTW, on the MojoAxe website, scroll all the way to the bottom of the page to find the Heritage pickguards: http://www.mojoaxe.com/

Yeah, when I was first started fooling around with swapping the bridge, it looked as though the protruded portion of the Pinnacle thumbwheels being on the underside would come very close to hitting the body. However, once I put the ABRN bridge on with the altered 8-32 thumbwheels, it became apparent that I would've had enough room to use the Pinnacles. By that time I had already had a few thumbwheel holes enlarged, so I stuck with them. Also, while I gave the locking Faber bridge a try, for whatever reason my guitar just lost a little something, mostly just a slight loss in sustain. Everything looked good and tight and felt solid but, once I put the ABRN on, it resolved that issue. I'll have to try the locking bridge again at some point in time. I do have the feeling that some guitarists will evenutally run into some issues with the 8-32 posts, though, for I'm not aware of any other guitar maker that uses them. On the other hand, I would think that the larger post size would also add some strength to the system, so perhaps that might be a good thing? Regarding the 8-32 thumbwheels, I had a longtime machinist friend enlarge the holes free of charge but, if push comes to shove, with the 8-32 thread count that matches the 6-32, it's a relatively easy job for any pro machinist to enlarge it to an 8-32. It's a bit of a hassle for sure, but doable. Thanks for the kind comment on the burst finish! I just had to grab it when it popped up for sale a couple of weeks ago, and I'm loving this guitar! The bonus is that it's a pretty sweet-sounding instrument, too! Regarding the quality aspects of the Faber ABRN vs the Heritage bridge, at first glance I think I have to favor the Faber. It just looks a little more polished and refined. But, the Heritage bridge is clearly a faithful design of an ABR-1. While I don't know what kind of alloy it's built from, I instantly noticed that it's heavier than the existing Pinnacle bridge. I'm thinking that it's probably a zinc/aluminum mix of some kind, but I wouldn't know. The string saddle slots will also need some attention since they're only slotted for the placement of the string and not to the actual gauge of the string. Since I only took the time to see if the Heritage bridge fit okay, at the moment I'm not able to provide any kind of a tone comparison between the two. All in all, though, it seems that the Heritage bridge will certainly do an adequate job! One thing that you'll notice is that the Heritage bridge will slip over the 8-32 posts quite easily with just a tiny bit of play. Conversely, since the Faber ABRN has a hole diameter size of 4.2mm, which just happens to be the same nominal diameter of the 8-32 posts according to my digital calipers, you'll find that the Faber bridge will feel just a bit tighter upon slipping it over the posts. I certainly didn't have to force it down, by any means, and while it did align perfectly, it will be just a tiny bit tighter. I personally like it that way simply because it seems to make the system a little more solid. But, as they say, YMMV. And oh......one more note......when I first installed the ABRN bridge, I noticed that the posts were actually turning just a bit while putting the thumbwheels on, so I took two thumbwheels to tighten the posts down so that they'd bottom out into the post hole. This brought the posts down on each side by about 1/8", so while it may not be necessary to do this, the posts won't sit quite as high as they previously did. On the other hand, I just felt that it couldn't hurt to make as much contact with the post and body as much as possible, so that's what I did. The G-pickguard was just a part that I had on hand from owning Les Pauls previously, so I decided to see if it would fit. I found that the screw hole near the neck pickup was about 1/16" off, so I just filed a bit of an extension of that hole to fit the existing hole in the body. If you zoom into the photo, it is visible, but not enough for me to worry about it. I also found that the mounting bracket was as a slight angle, too, so I just put a felt washer along the binding side so that the mount wouldn't dent the body. If I ever do another one, though, I think I'll try to find a pickguard with no holes so that I can drill my own. If I'm not mistaken, I think WD has them. Anyway, I hope that helps, and thanks for asking!

First of all, your guitar looks beautiful. I have an ebony CC and every time I see a burst, I’m like I want that one too haha. Actually, I’ve emailed Mike about that bridge and am waiting for an invoice. I also have Faber ABRN on order. I guess when I get both, I will have to decide which one I like more and install it. Since you have both already, have you noticed any difference in quality, dimensions, etc.? BTW, where did you find that G-style pickguard that fits Heritage CC? I’ve been looking everywhere but haven’t found one yet.

I have two sweet 16s ,one with a long and one with a short, I think the short sounds better but it cloud be the wood.

Huh, I flipped my Pinnacle thumbwheels over and have plenty of clearance from the top, and my action is 4.5/64th on the low E and 4/64th on the high E. I believe the action could go as low as I want without worry about the domes of the thumbwheels hitting the top. I guess it all depends on the neck angle of your guitar. Personally, I like the "locked down tight" Faber lock ABR bridge. If Heritage is switching to a more traditional ABR-1, why not just use the more traditional 6-32 posts? It certainly would allow for easier conversions and what are we to do if the 8-32 posts break? Like you said 8-32 posts and 8-32 thumbwheels are near impossible to find.

NICE!!!

I made a short little demo with no speaker cabinets, just the di straight in for both guitars and the bass...

Skunk works? Don't know

I caught a quick glimpse the other day of a Heritage model called an XP-i or XP, or something like that. It looked like a semi-hollow body with no F holes and humbucking pickups. Does anyone know what model I mean? I've never seen another one. Just curious

I'm not sure if anyone has posted this yet or if this news is still relatively unknown, but upon speaking with Mike at Heritage the other day, he informed me that the new 2025 Custom Core H150 and other CC models will receive a new ABR-style bridge as well as the standard flat thumbwheels. In other words, the Pinnacle system is getting replaced. My conversation with Mike began when I inquired about finding some standard thumbwheels with an 8-32 thread pitch, for I was hoping to install a Faber ABRN bridge while using the existing bridge posts that share the same 8-32 thread pitch. I also became concerned about flipping the Pinnicle thumbwheels over to use the flat side, for I felt that the centered protrusion being on the underside could potentially hit the top of the body if the action was set low. For the life of me, though, I could not find any thumbwheels other than a 6-32 thread or M4 metric, so not only did I have a machinist friend enlarge the holes to 8-32 on some thumbwheels I had laying around, I also went ahead and ordered the new bridge upgrade from Mike. Well, the parts arrived today, and the bridge and thumbwheels mount perfectly on the H150 bridge posts without any modifications whatsoever. I'm not sure who's building these bridges for Heritage, but it seems to be well-built and pretty solid: Just for reference sake, I am keeping the Faber bridge and the modified thumbwheels on the H150 for now, simply because I'm loving the way it sounds with this system. Still, as long as one obtains a set of thumbwheels with the 8-32 thread pitch, it's entirely possible to use a Faber ABRN or to upgrade to the new Heritage system without any installation issues. Of course, it's getting away from the lockable version, but I tend to prefer this system myself.

@dvnmjcNIcely Done! Some nice KB voicings there.

Well, I agree the best thing would be to check directly the guitar , but I should drive more than 8 hours to go there and back, so I'm trying to have more informations, before I leave. I also asked an opinion to Heritage support, and Mike answered me immediately, they are wonderful! He told me that is difficult to judge from a picture, however it seems that heat, maybe fire or something else created a stress on the surface of that part, but it seems that the neck hasn't been removed or deeply damaged. He also confirmed that is a 2006 Guitar . I will try to ask new pictures and a video, however it all depends on the economic negotiation, at first it was a swap and some money to him with my Les Paul Deluxe of first 70's that was highly modified, a great axe with Wizz Paf, but very hard to sale. Now, that I know all the problems of that 575, I think an exchange could be the only way to close the deal.

Or just ask for better pics with better lighting

Hard to tell: wood shifts & moves around with the season, humidity, even geographical location. So any joint or boundary might end up with stress cracks like that on the finish over time. You can't inspect the gtr in person? That would be best.

That's a swell catch Bob!

OK, I guess that nails it. Nice catch, Bob!

That is a nice thing. The Rockcrusher Recording is also switchable (8 or 16 Ohms), and that will handle all my needs. The nice thing about the "Recording model" is the Speaker emulation side with the 11 band tuned EQ. It does a great job of emulating all of the speakers that I use in my amps when I want to play in total silent NO SPEAKER mode, using just the LOAD box feature of the Rockcrusher. I record at lot in the very early morning 1 AM through 4 AM, and the only thing separating my recording room from the master bedroom in our house is a small bathroom, so I have to be whisper quiet when I record. And sometimes I like to record rhythm tracks with my drummer, and it's great to be able to sent him a rhythm track in his headphones, but when he's gone, I could wipe the track cause it didn't bleed into the drum mics. Then I can build the song up with his drum track, but re-record the rhythms when I can crank the amps!

The nice thing about the Ironman II is that it is switchable from 4 to 8 to 16 ohms.

Just after 12'45" you can see him try to do a swell with the bridge pickup selected. It doesn't work, so he selects the neck pickup and swells away!

Thanks you for your contribution. I know it's difficult to judge through a photo, but I would appreciate any opinion about the neck of this guitar that seems someway remove, or painted twice, I'm referring to that part brown painted,at the joint point of the neck to the body..

Everything I’ve read about attenuators agrees with your assessment. Your enthusiasm is catchy, thanks and congrats. Oh, it does work, happy NADs.