tnt365 Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 I have a 2008 Heritage 157 made in August. I am trying to replace the bridge and tailpiece but can't figure out which kind it is. I would also like to know what's the best bridge and tailpiece to replace it with. I've been told that it is a Schaller roller bridge, metric with small posts. The tailpiece I've been told is Gotoh. But what I've seen online is contrary to what I've been told. Thanks for the help guys! Here's a pic:
GuitArtMan Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 That's a Nashville style bridge. Could be Gotoh. Could be Schaller. Could be??? Why do you want to replace it? As for best, that's subjective. Some people like the Shcaller roller bridge and the associated tail piece. I don't. I think they are butt fugly and the damn rollers kept moving on me and screwing up the string spacing. Some people will say TonePros is best. Some will say Faber is best. Some will say Callaham is best. Some will say the really expensive Titanium (who makes it?) is the best. I'm very happy with TonePros but would like top try the Callaham since it's stainless steel and no a zinc alloy.
tnt365 Posted October 22, 2010 Author Posted October 22, 2010 That's a Nashville style bridge. Could be Gotoh. Could be Schaller. Could be??? Why do you want to replace it? As for best, that's subjective. Some people like the Shcaller roller bridge and the associated tail piece. I don't. I think they are butt fugly and the damn rollers kept moving on me and screwing up the string spacing. Some people will say TonePros is best. Some will say Faber is best. Some will say Callaham is best. Some will say the really expensive Titanium (who makes it?) is the best. I'm very happy with TonePros but would like top try the Callaham since it's stainless steel and no a zinc alloy. What are the showing signs of a Nashville bridge? Is it Metric or Standard? Small or big posts? I'm just trying to upgrade (more sustain, better tone, more stability). The saddles on my bridge are also worn a bit too much. I've been thinking Tonepros but don't know which model is a direct replacement. Thanks,
GuitArtMan Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 What are the showing signs of a Nashville bridge? Is it Metric or Standard? Small or big posts? I'm just trying to upgrade (more sustain, better tone, more stability). The saddles on my bridge are also worn a bit too much. I've been thinking Tonepros but don't know which model is a direct replacement. Thanks, Nashville Style: ABR-1 Style: Nashville style bridges have the busing in the guitar body into which the post/thumbwheel thread into. The ABR-1 style has the posts go directly into the body of the guitar with no bushings. The Nashville style has no retaining wire, the ABR-1 bridge does. The Nashville style is slightly wider. The Nashville style traditionally is installed with the set screws facing the tail piece, the ABR-1 is traditionally installed with the set screws facing the neck. I've never seen an ABR-1 on a Heritage. I'm not saying they've never done it, or wouldn't do it, just saying I've never seen it. For some silly reason that I don't fully comprehend the United States has not yet converted over to the metric system. Your bridge is standard, not metric. The posts on the Nashville style have a larger diameter than the posts on an ABR-1.
LK155 Posted October 22, 2010 Posted October 22, 2010 Well, based on your pix, you definitely do not have a Schaller roller bridge. I know, because my H155 had one, which I replaced with a TonePros TP6. Can't imagine why you would want to replace the tailpiece, unless you're after a different look.
Kuz Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 Nashville Style: ABR-1 Style: Nashville style bridges have the busing in the guitar body into which the post/thumbwheel thread into. The ABR-1 style has the posts go directly into the body of the guitar with no bushings. The Nashville style has no retaining wire, the ABR-1 bridge does. The Nashville style is slightly wider. The Nashville style traditionally is installed with the set screws facing the tail piece, the ABR-1 is traditionally installed with the set screws facing the neck. I've never seen an ABR-1 on a Heritage. I'm not saying they've never done it, or wouldn't do it, just saying I've never seen it. For some silly reason that I don't fully comprehend the United States has not yet converted over to the metric system. Your bridge is standard, not metric. The posts on the Nashville style have a larger diameter than the posts on an ABR-1. Yep, like he said perfectly!!! I will also add that some like the ABR-1 bridge because it was the original, BUT the Nashville is MUCH more stable against collapsing from the tension on the strings due to the bushings that are set into the guitar.
Spectrum13 Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 If you look under the bridge and don't see any name it would most likely be a Gotoh. Gotoh makes the tonepro bridge and the only difference is $60 and they tap a screw to "lock" into the theads. Locking the bridge is better as you will not loose your height adjustment during a string change /cleaning and some say provided more sustain. Callaham makes a locking bridge out of stainless steel. Faber makes a locking bridge out of a similar zinc alloy (as tonepro/Gotoh) but it is ABR-1 style and would fit in your Nashville anchor or they have a stainless steel conversion bolt that IMO works great and has a superior locking "cap". Good news is assuming your gitfiddle is intonated, the anchor studs are dead accurate. The saddles are pretty centered so the ABR-1 bridge having less saddle adjustment /travel than the Nashville would not be a problem.
tnt365 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Posted October 23, 2010 Thanks for the help guys; so let me get this straight I should 1) only replace the bridge as the tailpiece makes no difference 2) Get a Nashiville style bridge in standard. I still don't know 1) whether to get small posts or large posts AND HERE IS THE REALLY CRAZY PART! The person who told me that the bridge was a schaller roller bridge, that it was metric AND that it has small posts was REN at heritageguitar@kalamazoo.net. I attached a picture and gave him the serial number and everything and he told me the exact opposite of you guys (and I believe you guys, as pictures don't lie and it really makes more sense now). Can someone help me out as to why this may have happened? Tim
mars_hall Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 Thanks for the help guys; so let me get this straight I should 1) only replace the bridge as the tailpiece makes no difference 2) Get a Nashiville style bridge in standard. I still don't know 1) whether to get small posts or large posts AND HERE IS THE REALLY CRAZY PART! The person who told me that the bridge was a schaller roller bridge, that it was metric AND that it has small posts was REN at heritageguitar@kalamazoo.net. I attached a picture and gave him the serial number and everything and he told me the exact opposite of you guys (and I believe you guys, as pictures don't lie and it really makes more sense now). Can someone help me out as to why this may have happened? Tim Keep the bridge you have, as it already is a Nashville style bridge. You can tell by the size of the posts. The only improvement you could do would be maybe a Tonepros bridge, but expect only marginal improvement. I have Tonepros on 4 of my 6 Heritage guitars. It was an improvement over the roller bridges I replaced but a toss-up compared to the bridge you already have. Large posts of the correct thread, if you must. The more rigid the bridge, the less string energy is lost to vibration damping. i.e greater sustain
Kuz Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 Keep the bridge you have, as it already is a Nashville style bridge. You can tell by the size of the posts. The only improvement you could do would be maybe a Tonepros bridge, but expect only marginal improvement. I have Tonepros on 4 of my 6 Heritage guitars. It was an improvement over the roller bridges I replaced but a toss-up compared to the bridge you already have. Large posts of the correct thread, if you must. The more rigid the bridge, the less string energy is lost to vibration damping. i.e greater sustain Bingo, perfectly stated.
TalismanRich Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 AND HERE IS THE REALLY CRAZY PART! The person who told me that the bridge was a schaller roller bridge, that it was metric AND that it has small posts was REN at heritageguitar@kalamazoo.net. I attached a picture and gave him the serial number and everything and he told me the exact opposite of you guys (and I believe you guys, as pictures don't lie and it really makes more sense now). Can someone help me out as to why this may have happened? Tim Ren may have been going by what the guitar originally had on it when shipped. Did you get the guitar used? There's a possibility that the bridge was replaced. It so, it's surprising that the saddles would be so worn in 2 years. If you're getting the bridge from a local shop, just take the guitar in and try the bridge before you buy.
mars_hall Posted October 23, 2010 Posted October 23, 2010 What are the showing signs of a Nashville bridge? Is it Metric or Standard? Small or big posts? I'm just trying to upgrade (more sustain, better tone, more stability). The saddles on my bridge are also worn a bit too much. I've been thinking Tonepros but don't know which model is a direct replacement. Thanks, Have you considered swapping saddles? I have graphite String Savers on a H157 and it sustains well. I believe these come pre-slotted. (They were on the guitar when I bought it) I believe TP6 is the Tonepros model you are looking for. Someone correct me if I am wrong. If you are doing the install yourself, be aware that the saddles on the Tonepros usually come unslotted.
tnt365 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Posted October 23, 2010 Ren may have been going by what the guitar originally had on it when shipped. Did you get the guitar used? There's a possibility that the bridge was replaced. It so, it's surprising that the saddles would be so worn in 2 years. If you're getting the bridge from a local shop, just take the guitar in and try the bridge before you buy. Nice. I actually hadn't thought of that but now it seems so obvious. It makes sense that it might have been replaced and I've decided to perhaps just get new saddles. Any suggestions for saddles? I'm going to go un-notched as I have a guitar tech locally who will custom notch them.
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