Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 I've been spending too much time here I suspect, as I've gotten very interested in getting a custom-made semi-hollow. I think I'm going to go the tulk1 & Spectrum 13 route and going with a Prospect. I kinda/sorta want a 535, but the smaller/more comfortable body is really appealing to me. Plus, I'm also thinking a H-575 might be cool down the road. I don't know why I'm already planning two guitars into the future, but there it is. Anyway, Feel free to help me build this thing. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm open to feedback. I have inquired if this is possible, so I'm just waiting to hear back (not sure how long they usually take, it just seems like forever when you're geeked out over something), but it hasn't been long. Still, I'd value the input. Without further adieu, here's what I'm thinking: Full-Center Block Creme binding (on the body, neck, head, fretboard binding, etc.) MoP inlay on the headstock Matching black surrounds (I'm blanking on the proper term) for the pickups I was thinking about split-block fretboard inlays. I'm kinda wavering on that and leaning toward the LP/150-style trapezoids or toying with the idea of just a plain fretboard. Dark rosewood board Guitar case, because I'm told you have to specify that Bridge: Tune-o-matic w/ stop tail Neck Carve; Medium/Full. Not quite sure what to tell them other than I like my H-150, or something like my '96 Hamer Studio. I'm hoping for a compromise between comfortable and playable, but thick enough to get a real full tone with lots of "soul" and all those other adjectives that are intangible but you kinda know when they're there. Top & finish: Curly flamed Maple top w/ a reverse-brindle sorta look (basically a tan or pale blonde Antique Natural finish w/ a darker contrast in the flames) with a black flamed maple pickguard. If they have no idea what the heck that means or think I'm high and it won't look as cool as I'm hoping, I'd go with an Almond Sunburst (probably the Dark version) and maybe just forward them back a picture of tulk1's guitar. Wiring: Hoping to get a Pagebucker (push/pull split coil, out-of-phase, and the pickups in-a-series options) or some similar push/pull design. Pickups: I'm thinking HRW's just because I'm more interested in the rock side of things. I am, however, also interested in having some of Bill Lawrence's Wylde P-90's thrown in, and I have a set of Sheptone PAF's lying around. I'd listen to arguments in this for either side. I could also go with a P-90 in the neck and an HRW in the bridge, but I am not sure if that would look totally goofy or sorta/kinda cool. On one level, I'm interested to try the HRW's and then try the Sheptones to just to be able to compare and then get an H-575 w/ the Wylde P-90's down the road. Anyway, let me know if anything seems missing or misplaced or just a flat-out bad idea. I really am open to suggestions, so feel free to offer changes for consideration. -Cheers
tulk1 Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 David, Sounds like you've got the spec primer down quite well. If you have a picture of what you're wanting, whether it's another guitar or a dog, it couldn't hurt to let them see it. I sent in pics for the "minimal" top on mine. Depending on how much flame you want, you may want to specify the top wood upgrade package. What Ren will tell you is that you may not need the package, but it guarantees the top. Pickups are so personal and subjective, it's hard to offer much there. I stayed away from real P90s (dog ear, soapbar) just so I could replace them with 'buckers if I so desired. Oh, and yes, surrounds is the proper term for the plastic that "surrounds" the pickups. Getting excited, are ya? .........
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 David, Sounds like you've got the spec primer down quite well. If you have a picture of what you're wanting, whether it's another guitar or a dog, it couldn't hurt to let them see it. I sent in pics for the "minimal" top on mine. Depending on how much flame you want, you may want to specify the top wood upgrade package. What Ren will tell you is that you may not need the package, but it guarantees the top. Good advice. I send them in one as far as the color of the antique blonde color. I'll probably send them something close to how much flame I want. I have something in mind; flamey but more of the curly variety not the straight tiger-stripe variety, something between a tight quilt and a looser-yet-defined flame (again, something that probably only makes sense in my mind, hence send the pics or expect them to try and decipher what in the heck I'm talking about). I could get really avant garde and describe it like ("I want it to look like a pale cream colored silk sheet catching the twilight in its ripples like the ocean during El Nino . . ."). But that's the kind of stuff I'd only do in person so they knew I was joking. And yes, the reverse-brindle is something I got from a dog. Then I saw something like that on a guitar and it seemed a close enough approximation (well, if you've seen a dog with that coat I suppose). It's a pretty "finish" on these man's best friends. Pickups are so personal and subjective, it's hard to offer much there. I stayed away from real P90s (dog ear, soapbar) just so I could replace them with 'buckers if I so desired. Oh, and yes, surrounds is the proper term for the plastic that "surrounds" the pickups. Yeah. That's kind of my thought. I'll stick with humbuckers for this just so I have more diversity if for some strange reason I hate whatever is in there and can find something I like. Maybe next year I can find a nice deal on a 575 or 530 w/ genuine P-90's and try them out. Getting excited, are ya? ......... Yeah, I'm getting pretty excited. At this point I just get to wait. First, to make sure they understood what I was talking about and make any changes they recommend (a/o any good advice I get here). Then order it, wait some more, and hope my wife remembers she o.k.'d this months ago. But yes, I am actually very geeked out over this and think it will be a cool instrument that will get lots of loving use. Once, you know, it actually exists and gets here. It should be fun.
Spectrum13 Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 Looks great! May I suggest... specify either a Johnny Smith or Heritage style scratch guard and some would rather nickel over chrome hardware. Also consider the Tuna-Matic bridge would be a tonepros by defalt. Kzoo installed Faber conversion posts and I use their wireless locking ABR-1 and Faber locking stoptail. Dropped shipped to Kzoo from CVguitars.
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 Looks great! May I suggest... specify either a Johnny Smith or Heritage style scratch guard and some would rather nickel over chrome hardware. Of course you may. Any pics of the scratch guards for comparison sake? Also consider the Tuna-Matic bridge would be a tonepros by defalt. Kzoo installed Faber conversion posts and I use their wireless locking ABR-1 and Faber locking stoptail. Dropped shipped to Kzoo from CVguitars. Yeah, I was not sure which specific brand or style to consider for the bridge/stoptail. I'm also thinking some locking tuners; not a huge deal, but kinda nice. Also, the inlays . . . Any thoughts? I'm wondering if the split-block inlays would be a bit over-the-top and flashy. They're not like the naked lady hubcap inlays I've seen (online, never in an actual guitar), but I'm going more for nice and classy than excessively blingy or flashy. -Cheers
eljay Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 i think split blocks on a 137 might not work, but splits would look great on a custom prospect you are jolly proud of!
tulk1 Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 Definitely Nickel over Chrome. Forgot that. Good thing Spec brought that up. Assuming you're not going ........ ugh ....... gold. (personal opinion freely offered). Don't think the split blocks is over the top. It's your guitar, get what you want. Beats me on Johnny Smith vs Heritage finger rest (pickguard). Anyone?
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 Oh yeah, for the reverse-brindle design/shading that inspired the finish idea, here's what the dogs look like (not sure how well that will translate to a guitar, but . . .). Not the best pictures, but you kinda get the idea (and yes, I realize it would not look exactly like a Presa, but kind of inspired by, maybe?). So something like that pale cream/tan/blond sorta color with the rich warm browns or black sort of interspersed/flickering/veining throughout. -Cheers
Spectrum13 Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 Beats me on Johnny Smith vs Heritage finger rest (pickguard). Anyone? Check the Avatars above... Johnny Smith type are on Eljay's 535 (More Gibbon like) Tulk1 has the Heritage type. Notice the point framing the treble cutaway. With the bound headstock I would consider small blocks like Sir Byrd has on his little bird. The prospects are narrower than 535 and IMO I would not draw extra attention to the ears (good color choice) or make it too deluxe. Split blocks might not look great without bound F holes or anything MOP under "the Heritage" like a Diamond shape or some other inlay.
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 Definitely Nickel over Chrome. Forgot that. Good thing Spec brought that up. Assuming you're not going ........ ugh ....... gold. (personal opinion freely offered). I'm not. Sorry, gold hardware is definitely not me, so nickel it is! -Cheers
eljay Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 as information post #31 of this thread seepost31 shows flyin' brian's prospect with split blocks
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 as information post #31 of this thread seepost31 shows flyin' brian's prospect with split blocks Ahhhhh . . . Nice. -Cheers
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 Some things I'm adding/augmenting to the list based on the suggestions and my increasingly solidified overall vision for this guitar (in case anybody is interested): Faber Bridge & Tail Piece: Sounds interesting. Any specific package I should ask for? I've gathered there is a conversion kit w/ deeper SS bridge posts, an ABR-1 bridge, and locking tail piece and just glancing on the web it's supposed to make a bit of an improvement in the tone. I'd give it a shot. Pickups: I'm thinking of going with the HRW's. Maybe try out the Sheptones at some point, but I'm curious enough based on what I've heard of the HRW's to check them out. Besides, really, can you ever really have enough great custom made pickups lying around? (o.k., probably, but still . . .) Scratch Guard: I actually like the pointed pick guard that frames the treble cutaway. It looks kinda like a polearm blade or something (only, y'know, not metal). Inlays: Still undecided between the split-blocks and the trapezoid. The plain squares just seem a bit too, I don't know, overly symmetrical perhaps, lacking contours like the traps and lacking the breaks of the split-blocks that kind of break up the overall image of the inlay. Hardware: I'm thinking nickel, with locking tuners and aforementioned Faber "stuff." Top/Finish: Still going for my strange idea of a Reverse Brindle Dirty Blonde Antique Natural finish (i.e. probably just a darker-contrasted Antique Natural type of finish in reality) on a Top Wood Upgrade Package, along with a picture or two so they have a clue what in the heck I am talking about. Thanks for the advice thus far!
Halowords Posted November 1, 2010 Author Posted November 1, 2010 go naked on the neck... I'm at least pondering it. It might at least in part depend on the fretboard; I'm going a dark Rosewood, so the right one could be kinda cool. I'd just worry it would look a bit unfinished. But I actually do like plain fretboards as a general rule (w/ side markers, even though we're not supposed to look at the neck while playing anyway, right?). -Cheers
zookroo1 Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 I thought of PRS to check out for some different types of finishes, though sometimes I think they are a bit extreme. Here's a few that kind of remind me of the "doggie style" you're looking for...
H Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 Hi, hope you don't mind me chipping in from the other side of the Atlantic I've had both TonePros and Faber bridge/tailpiece sets on guitars of mine. There's no audible difference and the TonePros are cheaper and easier to lock down. +1 on Big Bob's naked ebony neck suggestion - what a great look! If you really need the fret markers, how about high set ones like Gretsch guitars have?
TalismanRich Posted November 1, 2010 Posted November 1, 2010 Hi, hope you don't mind me chipping in from the other side of the Atlantic I've had both TonePros and Faber bridge/tailpiece sets on guitars of mine. There's no audible difference and the TonePros are cheaper and easier to lock down. +1 on Big Bob's naked ebony neck suggestion - what a great look! If you really need the fret markers, how about high set ones like Gretsch guitars have? I personally USE the fret markers (more than I probably should), so I've never been a fan of naked boards. But a nice compromise might be the hollow traps used on the Milli Ltd Eds. Understated, but still visible if you need them.
FredZepp Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 I REALLY like those hollow traps... and the split blocks look classic and classy. And the two bottom PRS finishes are quite cool...... IMO..
Halowords Posted November 2, 2010 Author Posted November 2, 2010 I thought of PRS to check out for some different types of finishes, though sometimes I think they are a bit extreme. Here's a few that kind of remind me of the "doggie style" you're looking for... That's actually pretty close. I'd be interested in something like those, that tight-quilt pattern or waves-of-the-ocean flame sorta figuring. Anybody ever see that only with an alternating tan/cream/blonde and dark-brown (kind of like the browns in the Dark Almondburst alternated with the Antique Natural color)? I'd love to see pictures of that . . . But that pattern of the second pic's alternating with more of the figuring of the final two pictures was what I was envisioning, only with the Antique Natural/Dark Brown (Dark Almondburst?) sorta finish. -Cheers
AnH555 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Just a few of my thoughts, Halowords. Bone or ivory nut. And me, I like that dove/olive branch headstock inlay that Big Orange uses. HRW's in nickle or chrome will sell easily if you decide you want something else. Wonder if Heritage would do small split blocks on a fingerboard... If I went with trapezoids, I'd have one put on the first fret as well. For coil tapping, I'd go with push/push pots instead of push/pull. You should be able to find a pic of the wood grain you are looking for around here. And I also like the Heritage pickguard better. Just my .02 It's amazes me that they do this kind of stuff. Wonder if they'd do stainless steel frets? And don't forget to pick the knobs you want... OK, 'nuff said. Have fun.
big bob Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 Heritage will do these as well kinda a split trap.
Halowords Posted November 2, 2010 Author Posted November 2, 2010 Just a few of my thoughts, Halowords. Bone or ivory nut. And me, I like that dove/olive branch headstock inlay that Big Orange uses. HRW's in nickle or chrome will sell easily if you decide you want something else. Wonder if Heritage would do small split blocks on a fingerboard... If I went with trapezoids, I'd have one put on the first fret as well. For coil tapping, I'd go with push/push pots instead of push/pull. You should be able to find a pic of the wood grain you are looking for around here. And I also like the Heritage pickguard better. Just my .02 It's amazes me that they do this kind of stuff. Wonder if they'd do stainless steel frets? And don't forget to pick the knobs you want... OK, 'nuff said. Have fun. A couple interesting ideas . . . Push/Push pots . . . I wasn't sure that was possible. Anybody ever have that for coil tapping/out-of-phase/etc./etc.? How do they work? I mean I am guessing they work like on/off or A/B options on a button, just never heard of them or how well they worked or wore over time and all. Stainless Steel Frets: Do they do that? That is something I've been interested since hearing about it from some Carvin owners who love it. Particularly with a bound fretboard, changing frets would be a pain from what I've gathered and SS frets would make that something I'd never have to worry about. Some of the rest . . . I'm actually willing to sort of send in my wish list but still give them artistic license. Granted, if it came back radically different I would not be totally thrilled (e.g. they painted the guitar to look like Minnie Mouse wearing pink lipstick and a Strat setup I'd be more than a bit disappointed, although with the Prospect ears and a three-year-old daughter that actually might work better than you'd think). I do have some options in mind, which I've labored on and on and on about, but I also think their eye for what will work together might be worth factoring in some leeway for. Just thinking aloud. -Cheers
tulk1 Posted November 2, 2010 Posted November 2, 2010 This is my dark tiger stripe/brindle guitar. Not sure it's reversed brindle enough for you, tho'.
Halowords Posted November 2, 2010 Author Posted November 2, 2010 This is my dark tiger stripe/brindle guitar. Not sure it's reversed brindle enough for you, tho'. Pretty close. Yeah, that would be acceptable. Not quite the shade I'm thinking, but honestly, if the finish turns out nice and is an earth tone with some browns and maybe some cream/tan, I'll be inclined to like it. That is a nice looking guitar though. -Cheers
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