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Custom order: Neck profile


Heritage525

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Posted

Will heritage do a "fat" neck for me? I'm thinking about ordering a 555 with a '59 round neck....

Most definitely! My two custom orders I asked for a "fatter, 59'ish neck". Nailed it.

Posted

Tulk1...can you tell me about your custom orders? Also, how long did they take?

I hate to actually say how long the Millie took. It tends to give a false sense of the build times. But ... what the hey. :icon_thumright: The Custom Millie NFH took 30 days from placing the order until it hit the dealer's store. Amazing, isn't it? The Custom Prospect took a bit longer, about the normal 12 weeks. In both cases I spec'd out my guitar, running ideas past members here, the dealer and ultimately talking to both Ren and Vince about the specs. At each junction something was added or removed. Heritage nixed the most stuff - things they just couldn't do to the guitars / or wouldn't do to the guitars.

 

What I basically did was get options that are available on other guitars for my guitars - traps, dark board, single creme binding, MoP headstock. Stuff like that. Special bridges, hardware and wirings they weren't too interested in. They'll even try to do special color mixes ... if you catch them in the right mood. :drunken_smilie: The Prospect is really kind of a mix between Dark Almond and Vintage Wine. The biggest thing is that they tend to miss something here and there in the custom specs. In both instances, once received I didn't care. But, thought that worth mentioning. Thinking about a custom order?

Posted

Steve, I specified a fatter 59 neck profile on my custom ordered H525. Marv delivered the perfect neck (and guitar) to me after about a three and a half month wait.

As you can see in the photo it has a nice taper towards the nut as well as girth and shoulders as you slide your hand up the neck. VERY comfortable to play.

post-8-096852500 1290525090_thumb.jpg

Posted

Heritage 525

 

I've ordered a "slightly chunky" neck on 2 Heritages; not realizing that what I really wanted was a medium neck. The 150 came slightly chunky, and that was okay, I traded that away. Then the 137 came, I'd characterize it as 'medium' (less chunky than the 150) and it suits my hands perfectly. The dealer likley used the same language and I got two different necks with some variation - it all worked out happily in the end. As you can imagine, it's kind of subjective, and all they have to go on, at least in my case, is the language. I imagine if you say a '59 neck you have a good shot at getting that. Gestation time for the 150 - about 4/5 months, the 137 only took about 3 months. YMMV, but it seems to me that their turn-around time is getting faster, judging on what I've been reading here.

Posted

Here is what I am thinking...an I missing anything??

 

555

 

Wineburst

5 maple piece neck

Round '59 profile

Ebony board

Stinger

Block inlays

Nickel hardware

Sperzel ivory tuners

Tone pro hardware

SD Seth Lovers

Posted

How much thicker is a '59 neck (or a "'59-ish neck") from the standard Heritage neck?

 

I actually found a guitar I'm interested in and the seller said it's very similar to his (presumably Gibson) 2000 '59 reissue. Unfortunately, this is one of those sight-unseen Internet buys so I can't actually play it, but I'd like some general idea how that compares size-wise.

Posted

Here is what I am thinking...an I missing anything??

 

555

 

Wineburst

5 maple piece neck

Round '59 profile

Ebony board

Stinger

Block inlays

Nickel hardware

Sperzel ivory tuners

Tone pro hardware

SD Seth Lovers

 

 

Ooh, that sounds sweet!!

 

Since Wine Burst is a darker color, AND you want a stinger on the back of the neck, be sure to tell them that you want a lighter tint on the 5 pc neck. Otherwise the black stinger will not be visible.

I discussed that with my dealer and decided against a stinger since the Sunset Burst was a darker color.

 

Keep us posted on your custom order.

Posted

Here is what I am thinking...an I missing anything??

 

555

 

Wineburst

5 maple piece neck

Round '59 profile

Ebony board

Stinger

Block inlays

Nickel hardware

Sperzel ivory tuners

Tone pro hardware

SD Seth Lovers

 

Steve, just for peace of mind's sake, you might want to spec nut width. My two custom orders have a

1-3/4ths" nut (ordered that way, as I have large hands), as opposed to the 1-11/16ths" on my others. Your spec is just about dead on what I'd order in a 555. And white or creme binding (I'd go with creme for a more vintage touch)? Sounds fabulous! My spec'd Super Eagle is one of the most satisfying purchases I've ever made in my life! Bon chance!

Posted

Missed options that I see:

 

Binding options - single, double, triple; white, creme, black.

Surrounds to match binding.

Knobs, if that is important.

Flame - Heavy, medium, low. If you want to guarantee a good top you may need to spec the upgraded wood. I've been fortunate. But Ren suggests its a crap shoot on the tops.

Mention to your dealer to mention you're an HoC Member. It carries weight and should get you a good discount.

Case (yep).

Posted

I hate to actually say how long the Millie took. It tends to give a false sense of the build times. But ... what the hey. :icon_thumright: The Custom Millie NFH took 30 days from placing the order until it hit the dealer's store. Amazing, isn't it? The Custom Prospect took a bit longer, about the normal 12 weeks. In both cases I spec'd out my guitar, running ideas past members here, the dealer and ultimately talking to both Ren and Vince about the specs. At each junction something was added or removed. Heritage nixed the most stuff - things they just couldn't do to the guitars / or wouldn't do to the guitars.

 

What I basically did was get options that are available on other guitars for my guitars - traps, dark board, single creme binding, MoP headstock. Stuff like that. Special bridges, hardware and wirings they weren't too interested in. They'll even try to do special color mixes ... if you catch them in the right mood. :drunken_smilie: The Prospect is really kind of a mix between Dark Almond and Vintage Wine. The biggest thing is that they tend to miss something here and there in the custom specs. In both instances, once received I didn't care. But, thought that worth mentioning. Thinking about a custom order?

Wow! My two custom order took over a year each... But that was back at the turn of the century.

Posted

Give Marv measurements in millimeters, at the 1st, 5th, 9th and 12th frets. He'll give you EXACTLY what you want.

I wish that was the case with my first custom order...

Posted

Here is what I am thinking...an I missing anything??

 

555

 

Wineburst

5 maple piece neck

Round '59 profile

Ebony board

Stinger

Block inlays

Nickel hardware

Sperzel ivory tuners

Tone pro hardware

SD Seth Lovers

Yep, clownburst. That's what you really want. Clownburst :)

Posted

Here is what I am thinking...an I missing anything??

 

555

 

Wineburst

5 maple piece neck

Round '59 profile

Ebony board

Stinger

Block inlays

Nickel hardware

Sperzel ivory tuners

Tone pro hardware

SD Seth Lovers

 

It may take a little arm twisting to accomplish . . . but, you may want to reconsider the 5 piece neck. On that particular guitar, a 3 piece maple neck is more appropriate (if there is such a thing as appropriateness in custom build). They used to do 3 piece necks on 555s. To my knowledge, they've never done a 5 piece. Marv usually pushes back on the 3 piece because it requires different size raw lumber to make it. They sometimes don't have it in stock and have to order it in special. There is also a hefty up charge for the 3 piece . . . but in my opinion, it's the way to go. I have a 555 with the 3 piece neck and wouldn't change it for the world. The other thing you may want to consider . . . I don't know where you live . . . but, it may be worth taking a trip into the plant to be there the day they roll the neck. I did so with my custom build Golden Eagle (3 piece maple neck as opposed to the 5 piece) and Marv had me check it in my hands no less than 15 times as he was rolling it. The result? Perfection!!!

Posted

Patrick, thanks for the advice . . I wish I could get over to the factory, but I live in Louisiana. . . . maybe I can get one of my MI HOC friends to go over there for me?? Other than looking pretty, what is the difference between a 3 piece maple neck and a mahogany neck, tone wise?

Posted

Patrick, thanks for the advice . . I wish I could get over to the factory, but I live in Louisiana. . . . maybe I can get one of my MI HOC friends to go over there for me?? Other than looking pretty, what is the difference between a 3 piece maple neck and a mahogany neck, tone wise?

 

Boy oh boy! That question could and probably will spark a lengthy and spirited debate here, as it always seems to. Regarding the tone, there are those who swear that they hear a difference. I'm not sure I would be able to. As for the difference in tone between a 5 piece maple and a 3 piece maple . . I wouldn't think it matters much, if at all. All of the debate seems to be centered around stability, in both cases . . . 5 piece maple vs mahog and 3 piece maple vs mahog. The general consensus is that the 3 piece neck is probably the most stable of all . . but that has yet to be proven. I do know that most self proclaimed, as well as peer proclaimed "master luthiers" prefer the 3 piece maple over the 5 piece. It is also speculation that companies such as Gibson and Heritage switched to the 5 piece neck because it could be made with thinner (less expensive) strips of maple. The Gibson Citation, D'Angelico, D'Aquistos, Monteleone, Comins, Triggs, Lacy, Lewis arch tops all use 3 piece maple . . . therefore, when I ordered my custom Golden Eagle I wanted one too. I will also say, they carve and shape up differently than a one piece mahog, or even a 5 piece maple. I didn't know that until Marv pointed it out to me. As he was "rolling" my neck into shape, he said repeatedly . . . "this neck is such a joy to work with". You should probably query other HOC members as to their perceived differences in the 3 piece maple 555 and the 1 piece mahog. Many either have both or have had both. I currently have a 3 piece maple H555, two H535 with a 1 piece mahog neck and a '63 reissue ES335 with a one piece mahog. For me and my preferences, the 3 piece maple neck on the triple nickel seems to be the truest and best feel of any semi I've ever owned.

Posted

Patrick, thanks for the advice . . I wish I could get over to the factory, but I live in Louisiana. . . . maybe I can get one of my MI HOC friends to go over there for me?? Other than looking pretty, what is the difference between a 3 piece maple neck and a mahogany neck, tone wise?

 

Tonally, what you are making is a 345 or 355 (thus the Ebony fretboard plus the maple neck)in ordering this 555. JUST MY OPINION, and a couple others here on HOC, but this combination 555 (and I have owned this same 555 combination plus a couple 345 & 355s)leads to a snappier, quicker attack that is brighter.

 

I owned a '65 335 and my current Custom 555 which has a special order 1 3/4" nut width mahogany neck & rosewood fretboard. Thus essentially I own a 535 with 555 ornamentation (minus the gold). To me this guitar gives the classic warmth & roundness of the 335 (Larry Carlton, Clapton, ect).

People here have criticized my ear on this debate, but I offer up this defense.... Why is the dot neck 335 more valuable and prized than the 345 or 355? The 335 is played by Eric Johnson, Larry Carlton, Eric Clapton, ect??!!! They could afford any of the 335, 345, 355, but still chose the 335. Same with the LP Standard vs the LP Custom, the iconic LP players CHOOSE Mahogany & Rosewood.

 

I am not trying to change your mind, but offer another opinion. It is your guitar and you won't be happy ordering anything other than what you want. But you asked for tonal opinions between the two necks and I am trying to help with my opinion, again your opinion my vary and that is fine.

Posted

Tonally, what you are making is a 345 or 355 (thus the Ebony fretboard plus the maple neck)in ordering this 555. JUST MY OPINION, and a couple others here on HOC, but this combination 555 (and I have owned this same 555 combination plus a couple 345 & 355s)leads to a snappier, quicker attack that is brighter.

 

I owned a '65 335 and my current Custom 555 which has a special order 1 3/4" nut width mahogany neck & rosewood fretboard. Thus essentially I own a 535 with 555 ornamentation (minus the gold). To me this guitar gives the classic warmth & roundness of the 335 (Larry Carlton, Clapton, ect).

People here have criticized my ear on this debate, but I offer up this defense.... Why is the dot neck 335 more valuable and prized than the 345 or 355? The 335 is played by Eric Johnson, Larry Carlton, Eric Clapton, ect??!!! They could afford any of the 335, 345, 355, but still chose the 335. Same with the LP Standard vs the LP Custom, the iconic LP players CHOOSE Mahogany & Rosewood.

 

I am not trying to change your mind, but offer another opinion. It is your guitar and you won't be happy ordering anything other than what you want. But you asked for tonal opinions between the two necks and I am trying to help with my opinion, again your opinion my vary and that is fine.

 

Kuz . . . .I luv ya man . . . but guys like Eric Clapton, Eric Johnson and the others you mentioned couldn't care less about the stuff you're referencing. They played a dot neck . . . because it was a dot neck. Larry Carlton played his block neck '63 because it was a closer part of his body than his penis. When you play at that level, tone created by guitar differences has ZERO to do with it. It's all about the artist's fingers, touch and feel. Why do you think SRV posed for an album cover with a dot neck. Because it sounded better?? He posed for an album cover with a dot neck . . . because it was a dot neck. Same with the iconic players you referenced who may have chosen a LP Standard over a LP Custom. Dicky chose a gold top. Frampton chose a custom. Carlos chose an SG or a '62 LP. Jimmy chose a Standard burst. Peter Green chose a Standard with goofy pick up polarity. There aren't too many people in this world good enough to discern the difference between a mahog neck semi and a maple neck semi. And if there is a discernible difference, it is probably minuscule.

Posted

Kuz . . . .I luv ya man . . . but guys like Eric Clapton, Eric Johnson and the others you mentioned couldn't care less about the stuff you're referencing. They played a dot neck . . . because it was a dot neck. Larry Carlton played his block neck '63 because it was a closer part of his body than his penis. When you play at that level, tone created by guitar differences has ZERO to do with it. It's all about the artist's fingers, touch and feel. Why do you think SRV posed for an album cover with a dot neck. Because it sounded better?? He posed for an album cover with a dot neck . . . because it was a dot neck. Same with the iconic players you referenced who may have chosen a LP Standard over a LP Custom. Dicky chose a gold top. Frampton chose a custom. Carlos chose an SG or a '62 LP. Jimmy chose a Standard burst. Peter Green chose a Standard with goofy pick up polarity. There aren't too many people in this world good enough to discern the difference between a mahog neck semi and a maple neck semi. And if there is a discernible difference, it is probably minuscule.

 

I am not going to go overboard on this, but a quick search will reveal.....

Fretboard Woods:

 

Perhaps more significant than neck wood, the fretboard is the place your string launches from. It is the “bridge” on the other side. Fretboard differences are as dramatic as those between a hardtail and a tremolo.

 

Maple:

Very bright and dense, Maple is highly reflective. When used on a fretboard, Maple encourages tremendous amounts of higher overtones and its tight, almost filtered away bass favors harmonics and variations in pick attack.

 

Rosewood:

The most common fretboard, Rosewood is naturally oily, and works well for any surface that sees frequent human contact. The sound is richer in fundamental than Maple because the stray overtones are absorbed into the oily pores

 

Ebony:

Ebony has a snappy, crisp attack with the density of Maple, but with more brittle grains, oilier pores, and a stronger fundamental tone than Maple. It has a tremendous amount of percussive overtones in the pick attack, that mute out shortly thereafter to foster great, long, sustain.

 

PLUS for the neck comparisons...

 

Necks - maple or mahogany

bmetelits

01-16-2009, 11:20 AM

Some electrics have maple necks and some have mahogany necks. Sometimes this is the biggest difference between vintages of the same model or between similar models of the same brand.

 

If you have two similar guitars side-by-side and the only difference between the two is the neck wood - one guitar has maple neck and the other guitar has a mahogany neck - how big a difference in tone and sustain could be expected?

elkym

01-16-2009, 11:23 AM

Mahogany seems to get a less brittle tone, softer, warmer...

 

But Maple gives you a brighter, punchier sound...

 

Not sure what the difference is sustain-wise...

 

As for how big the differences are? hmm... good question. I feel like the difference is fairly subtle.

Phoebe

01-16-2009, 11:24 AM

If all other things were equal, which is impossible, you'd notice in a side-by-side that mahogany is warmer and maple is brighter. In terms of sustain, I doubt there's difference between the two.

cvansickle

Posted

When I ordered the 357-Firebird I asked Marv to carve the neck as slim as was structurally possible since the neck is through body. I got a nice slim neck that wasn't the slimmest neck carve of any Heritages I have played but well within what I wanted. I don't have the slightest complaint about the whole affair to be honest.

 

I can hear differences in woods and I prefer the ebony fingerboards for the attack. I can still get that warm tone Kuz likes but my attack on picking the string will be sharper than he likes. Also the sound of strings scraping on the board are different during bends but I like the ebony best.

 

I think the fretboard is one of the most important pieces of a guitar. It is where your fingers and strings give the art to the rest of the build.

Posted

Larry Carlton played his block neck '63 because it was a closer part of his body than his penis.

 

As long as it was his own.....

 

Maybe it was the effect of having the strap button at the base of the neck?

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