wdelaney72 Posted February 13, 2011 Posted February 13, 2011 More details to come. This is a footswitchable Marshall Superlead and Master Volume. It's a 2 in one that allows clean and dirty while retaining both classic Marshall sounds in one amp. I'm very excited about, as I've needed this kind of functional amp for gigs. I'll work on clips in the next week or so and be happy to answer any circuit specific questions. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/wdelaney72/Delaney%202%20Channel%20100w/HeadRear.jpg
wdelaney72 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Posted February 14, 2011 Transformers are from Metropolous. Original 1203-80 laydown spec. Plate Voltage is very high. With tubes, still runs approx 500vdc. This is consistent with Marshalls up to mid 1968. Eddie Van Halen coined "The Brown sound" by running a variac to lower plate voltage. I, actually, prefer the tone with higher voltage. Marshall setttled on about 485vdc for 100w amps in late 1968 and continued that way for ages. There's something more "aggressive" sounding about the higher plate voltage. Output Tranny is Metropolous clone of the DRAKE 1202-132. This is the first 100w EL34 output Transformer before switching over to the Dagnall's for 100w. Marshalls with these OTs were commonly refered to 10xxx series.....circa 1967. Not sure of the direct differences with the Dagnalls, but the 10xxx series with Drake 1202-132, shared cathode in v1, 500vdc plate voltage, and 56K/250pF tone stack are my all-time favorite. it's just got a beefier, classic sound compared to the later 100 watters. All Superleads sound great...different flavors....the 10xxx is just my favorite, so I picked that OT. Because of the shared v1 with the 2203 circuit, I had to forego the "shared cathode" setup. I originally built this where 1959 and 2203 had their own V1, so it had it's own v1 circuit on the 1959 side with shared cathode. Unfortunately, there was just too much noise from the relay on the input signal. I did keep the 56K/250pF tone stack. Gives the amp a little more meat. You can see I have 2 different rectifiers. Both are tapped off the filament voltage. The first one on the far left side of the amp, is to create 5vdc to feed the the 4PDT relay. The second rectifier is solely for the channel LED. I'm sure there's a simpler rectifier circuit, but I've always preferred full wave rectification. It was important for me to have channel indicators....those LEDs are the same used in foot pedeals, which require 2.2vdc Located between the cathode follower tube and PI tube is the Zero Loss FX Loop designed by SDM. This loop is available over at MetroAmp. SDM is one of the coolest and generous techs on the net. Theis FX loop is 100% transparant. It's solid-state, yet keeps the voltage completely untouched. There are some good tube-based loops out there, but they will color your sound. Maybe good, maybe bad, but a loop shouldn't change the sound and this is THE most transparant loop you'll ever see. The panel says "Presence" but that was moved to the rear of the amp to make room on the front panel for the Post PI Master Volume. This Master volume was put together from a few people on the MetroAmp forum based on a Ken Fischer Master Volume. It uses a dual 250K pot with 2.2M resisotrs to keep the circuit true to stock when the pot is fully open. Tone Capacitors are a mix of SoZo, IC, and ERO. SoZo are perfect for 1959 SuperLeads, but IC and ERO serve 2003 Master Volume circuits a little better. Filter caps are SoZo and F&T. I never use JJ filter cans. They sound ok, but don't have the durability of F&T and SoZo. I love the SoZo filter caps, but he doesn't make dual cans yet. Just a straight 100uF can. I'm hoping John expands the line cause his stuff is the best. Other points to note. Power Tubes are EH 6CA7 Verdict is still out for me on these tubes. My favorite Power tubes are =C= EL34. I may go back to those, but I figured I'd give these a try for a while. Many of the EVH junkies like these. They have more headroom than EL34 and a touch more bottom end. I'll have to come back to these after more time has passed. Preamp tubes are V1=Mullard.....70's production, not re-issue. V0 which drives the 1959 Normal channel = NOS GE LongPlate. V2 (Cathode Follower) = RFT. V3 (Phase Inverter) = RCA 7025. The RFT is a really cool tube. For a little more gain....especially in 2203 mode, it can be moved to V1, but I prefer the classic Mullard tone out of my V1. The amp also has a dual bias setup, which allows for 2 matched pairs instead of a fully matched quad. This is a rather simple mod that I like to keep on all my amps. Biasing takes a little more work, but it allows you more flexibility on Power Tube selection.
212Mavguy Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 Awwww, NIIIIICE! The guys at ampgarage would love your gutshots! Nice pre tube selection...
bolero Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 wow, that's pretty intense, you built that?? impressive...!! are the two black knobs preamp volumes? ie: one for each channel? I really like the winged C ex-svetlana tubes too
wdelaney72 Posted February 14, 2011 Author Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks, guys. I've been at the amp building thing for quite a few years. Channel switching was the next logical step. This took quite a bit of planning, as well as trial and error to get the relay and led voltages correct. Black Knob on left is Normal Channel Volume for 1959 mode. Black Knob on Right is Gain for 2203 Mode. Volume 1 knob on left is Bright Channel Volume for 1959 Mode. Volume II knob on Right is Master Volume for 2203 Mode. Overall Master Volume Knob is the Presence. On the back panel from Left to right. Footswitch jack, FX Return, FX Send, Presence Knob
kbp810 Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 Looks like more great work, really like the sound of the channel switching too, great stuff!
wdelaney72 Posted February 15, 2011 Author Posted February 15, 2011 ...it doesn't go to "11" you gotta fix that The white trimmed amp in my pic "goes to 11".
NoNameBand Posted February 15, 2011 Posted February 15, 2011 ...it doesn't go to "11" you gotta fix that I'm sure it's nothing more than a misprint.
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