Dead Fret

[Bluzman54]

I have a guitar that the D string at the 12th fret has very little sustain. All the other strings sustain well at the 12th fret- the difference is noticeable both acoustically and more so through an amp.

 

I have checked the frets after that and there appears to be adequate clearance, so I can't say its a fret problem.

 

Any ideas what could be the cause? Could it be the pups? If so, is it a simple adjustment?

 

I had a new H550 that had the same issue and I could never figure it out so I got rid of it. So I'm asking the "experts" here before I get frustrated enough and get rid of this guitar (don't want to because other than that it plays like a dream).

 

Thanks

 

Jim C

[Patrick]

I have a guitar that the D string at the 12th fret has very little sustain. All the other strings sustain well at the 12th fret- the difference is noticeable both acoustically and more so through an amp.

 

I have checked the frets after that and there appears to be adequate clearance, so I can't say its a fret problem.

 

Any ideas what could be the cause? Could it be the pups? If so, is it a simple adjustment?

 

I had a new H550 that had the same issue and I could never figure it out so I got rid of it. So I'm asking the "experts" here before I get frustrated enough and get rid of this guitar (don't want to because other than that it plays like a dream).

 

Thanks

 

Jim C

 

Sounds like there is a bit of a high spot at the 13th fret under the D string. If it's only the 13th fret, there will be no problem when you fret the D string from the 13th fret all the way up the neck

[Millennium Maestro]

I would ask the guru's themselves at the company!

[kbp810]

I have a guitar that the D string at the 12th fret has very little sustain. All the other strings sustain well at the 12th fret- the difference is noticeable both acoustically and more so through an amp.

 

I have checked the frets after that and there appears to be adequate clearance, so I can't say its a fret problem.

 

Any ideas what could be the cause? Could it be the pups? If so, is it a simple adjustment?

 

I had a new H550 that had the same issue and I could never figure it out so I got rid of it. So I'm asking the "experts" here before I get frustrated enough and get rid of this guitar (don't want to because other than that it plays like a dream).

 

Thanks

 

Jim C

Well, if it happens acoustically too, then that should rule out the pup's as the problem. Sometimes if the pup is too close to the strings the magnetic pull can actually impart on the stings causing them to loose sustain... but if this was the case, I couldn't imagine it only impacting the D, and only below the 12th.

 

Have you tried changing strings yet? I've ran into dead strings before that would do something very similiar to this (even new out of the package).

[DetroitBlues]

Keep in mind there is a fretboard radius in which your individual string height needs to follow accordingly. I'd suggest raising the D-string ever so slighty to get a little clearance. The string is thicker than the G or B string, so it would be a little closer to the fretwire. If you have humbuckers, you can also move the individual pole for the d-string down, but I believe its more related to string height to the fretboard....

[Bluzman54]

Thanks for the help. Never considered changing out the strings or the neck radius at that string.

 

Jim C

[NoNameBand]

 

Have you tried changing strings yet? I've ran into dead strings before that would do something very similar to this (even new out of the package).

 

If it's not a dead string, you could check to see if the fret is low, or dirty/tarnished. Maybe a good polish of that fret might help. Might be a slight dip in the neck there as well.

[Patrick]

Thanks for the help. Never considered changing out the strings or the neck radius at that string.

 

Jim C

 

Jim . . . if the problem was bad strings . . or even a single bad D string, your problems would not be limited to only the 12th fret of only the D string. Similar with the D string being too low or not in conformity with the neck radius. If you are having the problem with only one string, and on only one fret, then it could only be the next fret up the neck causing the problem. Try fretting the D string at the 13th fret. If it plays well and rings . . then you have a high spot on the 13th fret. When you fret the D string at the 12th fret, it's hitting the high spot on the 13th fret and dying out. But, when you fret it at the 13th fret, it will ring without "fretting out" because the 14th fret is probably true.

 

Raising that particular string height would probably correct the problem. But, it will also raise the action of that string and affect the playability. That might matter to you . . it might not. If it was my guitar, I would have a tec check the frets for accurate and true leveling and crowning.

[pegleg32]

It almost sounds like the 12th fret may be a bit low where that string crosses it, allowing it to "buzz" on the 13th fret? That would be unusual that a low spot on the fret would be that small, but that is what comes to my mind.

[tbonesullivan]

could also be a loose fret. that'll make it nice and dead sounding.

[Patrick]

could also be a loose fret. that'll make it nice and dead sounding.

 

YEP!! You are correct. That could also cause a lack of sustain.

[smurph1]

Jim . . . if the problem was bad strings . . or even a single bad D string, your problems would not be limited to only the 12th fret of only the D string. Similar with the D string being too low or not in conformity with the neck radius. If you are having the problem with only one string, and on only one fret, then it could only be the next fret up the neck causing the problem. Try fretting the D string at the 13th fret. If it plays well and rings . . then you have a high spot on the 13th fret. When you fret the D string at the 12th fret, it's hitting the high spot on the 13th fret and dying out. But, when you fret it at the 13th fret, it will ring without "fretting out" because the 14th fret is probably true.

 

Raising that particular string height would probably correct the problem. But, it will also raise the action of that string and affect the playability. That might matter to you . . it might not. If it was my guitar, I would have a tec check the frets for accurate and true leveling and crowning.

+1

[DetroitBlues]

+1

 

I was only giving a quick fix, but a decent guitar tech should be able to figure it out right away.

[Blunote]

Jim . . . if the problem was bad strings . . or even a single bad D string, your problems would not be limited to only the 12th fret of only the D string. Similar with the D string being too low or not in conformity with the neck radius. If you are having the problem with only one string, and on only one fret, then it could only be the next fret up the neck causing the problem. Try fretting the D string at the 13th fret. If it plays well and rings . . then you have a high spot on the 13th fret. When you fret the D string at the 12th fret, it's hitting the high spot on the 13th fret and dying out. But, when you fret it at the 13th fret, it will ring without "fretting out" because the 14th fret is probably true.

 

Raising that particular string height would probably correct the problem. But, it will also raise the action of that string and affect the playability. That might matter to you . . it might not. If it was my guitar, I would have a tec check the frets for accurate and true leveling and crowning.

 

 

Just curious: Is there a way to raise the height of just one string?

[DetroitBlues]

Just curious: Is there a way to raise the height of just one string?

 

Not exactly positive about the tune-o-matic style bridges, they are not adjustable like a fender tremolo. However slighty raising the bridge on the low E side might make a difference. Plus the notch may be cut too deep. I'm used to Strat setups which the height can be adjusted individually... Sorry!

[Bluzman54]

Great advice. Thanks.

 

Jim C

[DetroitBlues]

A decent guitar tech will charge about $45 for a complete setup, polish frets, and check nut and saddle, maybe less if you barter for it. Should only take a half an hour to complete. But it will be worth your time!

[kbp810]

A decent guitar tech will charge about $45 for a complete setup, polish frets, and check nut and saddle, maybe less if you barter for it. Should only take a half an hour to complete. But it will be worth your time!

Thats never a bad idea

 

Tech checkups are just like getting an oil change for your guitar

[Bluzman54]

I don't do frustration well....lol So first thing this am I went to UPS and shipped the guitar back for an exchange. I figured it is under warranty so let them deal with it and send me a new one.

 

Problem solved....I hope.

 

Thanks for all the advice...you guys are the best source for info anywhere.

 

Jim C

[DetroitBlues]

I don't do frustration well....lol So first thing this am I went to UPS and shipped the guitar back for an exchange. I figured it is under warranty so let them deal with it and send me a new one.

 

Problem solved....I hope.

 

Thanks for all the advice...you guys are the best source for info anywhere.

 

Jim C

 

I'd always suggested any guitar that gets shipped should be set up by someone locally regardless...

[Mave]

Hi: I think "hot spots" and "dead spots" are very common on all archtop guitars. I had a dead fret on my treble "e" string at the 12th fret on my L5 (the worst place to have it). I tried most of the ideas in your other responses. I finally (reluctantly) changed to a tune-o-matic "roller" type bridge and bought a very good strobe tuner (planet waves $165.00). I discovered that the "e" string was so far out of intonation that the wooden bridge would never have had enough adjustment to get it intonated properly. The combination of the new bridge and proper intonation solved the problem very well. Sadowsky guitars sells ($50.00) a hand-made wooden bridge that is intonated very well, and you can adjust the final intonation by using nut files and very carefully moving the center point (or "high spot" or "break point") inside the string slot. Filing in the slot from the "neck side" moves the "break point" back to lengthen the string and make the intonation "flatter" , while filing in the slot from the "tail piece side" shortens the string making the intonation "sharper". The drawback to all this is it takes some experience to judge where the "break point" should fall, and once the bridge in intonated you are stuck with your string gage. If you chage string sizes you'll probably have to buy another bridge and start over. Hope this helps.