cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 If you are of a nervous disposition or perhaps a little squeemish... Dont read on.... I decided to go for the PRS multi tap switch mod on the 150-P as it had Schallers and so was ripe for coil tapping... Thing is... The switch didn't fit into the control cavity... :'( So... What was I supposed to do... :undecided: Make up a Jig to hold the guitar.... Get the router out... Job Done... Just needs a little cleaning up, then I'll line the cavity with Aluminium foil as an interference shield... I'll let you know how I get on...
tulk1 Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Thats pretty cool! So ... you're installing the PRS Rotatry switching? Which is just the opposite mod that most people do with that switch. You do like living on the edge. 8)
cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Author Posted April 13, 2008 Well... I've done it... And it works.... ;D Blimey... What a difference... It's like a completely different guitar... Now I just need to work out if that's a good or bad thing... :wink: It's certainly going to take some getting used to... First impressions are... I think I've re invented the Telecaster... Hmm... :undecided:
Dick Seacup Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Just think, in twenty years that guitar will only be worth $15k instead of $50k because someone modded the control cavity. (I keed)
cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Author Posted April 13, 2008 Just think, in twenty years that guitar will only be worth $15k instead of $50k because someone modded the control cavity. Now it's done... You'd have to look pretty close to see the difference, and I've still got all the original bits to stick it back together, as and when... Also... Whilst we're on the subject of chopping about in the control cavity.... Here's an example of Heritages own fine craftsmanship... :wink: http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll185/Heritageguitarpics/1992%20H%20357%20Firebird%20Blue/pickupcavity.jpg[/img]
doggy1972 Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Well done cosmik. I too love using power tools on guitars. Makes you feel like a surgeon whos been entrusted a patients life. Very character building ;D
cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Author Posted April 13, 2008 Here's a couple more pics of the final stages... Soldering up everything. Using Shielded cable where practical... Paper Stuck to the guitar body to stop solder splashes burning the paintwork... Job done... Control cavity and cover lined with self adhesive aluminium tape for shielding... http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj254/cosmikdebriis/mod5.jpg[/img] One complaint I did have was the piece of wire Heritage use as an earth between the tailpiece stud and the volume pot, was very thin indeed and broke immediately. I certainly wouldn't trust it and I'm going to run an earthing check on the rest of my guitars... > I had to drill out the hole leading from the cavity to the stud, pull out the stud, thread a new, thicker, copper, piece of wire through and re assemble. Doesn't pay not to be well earthed especially when using valve amps... :police:
skydog Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Cosmik: I can't believe you couldn't find a mate to hold on to that guitar whilst you whirled! It sounds funny to hear someone refer to "earth" vs. the "ground" we use here. Although my mom's from Scotland and my dad's from Wales and they both say "earth".
cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Author Posted April 13, 2008 Right... Next project... Hmm... How about one of the funny hand grips like in the Steve Vai Ibanez... Could do that on the old 357 perhaps... >
Cryoman Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Hey Cosmik, Nice work. Does your aluminium tape have conductive adhesive? (or did you tuck in a folded over corner at each piece?) I always check continuity point to point with a DVM over multiple spots within the shielding to ensure I have a "cage" rather than an antenna. Secondary ground-loops are a killer. Cheers, Cryoman
cosmikdebriis Posted April 13, 2008 Author Posted April 13, 2008 I always check with a meter but, so far... touch wood... have never had a problem. I think there's o much bare metal, all the pots are earthed and touching the aluminium, the controll cover binds it all together... etc and it seems to work just fine. Not that it's a big deal with buckers but as it was in pieces, and I had some routing to hide... :angel:
Thundersteel Posted April 13, 2008 Posted April 13, 2008 Nice jig! Maybe you could make a very thin version of the H137--call it an H127PWCB (PlyWood Cosmik Debriis)
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