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rs guitar works


byobkim

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Posted

has anyone done the RS Guitar Works pots and caps upgrade and left the schaller pickups in place. Just bought an h150 with trashed electronics.Pickups seem to be fine.

Posted

Do a forum search for "RS Guitar Works"....

 

Yes, MANY of us have used them.

 

I swear by their stuff (pots & bumble bee caps)!!!

Posted

myself I'm not a fan of Schaller pups, but many would disagree

 

Fralin makes fantastic pickups

 

Wolfetone as well

 

for the ultimate project, I would get Throbaks

Posted

myself I'm not a fan of Schaller pups, but many would disagree

 

Fralin makes fantastic pickups

 

Wolfetone as well

 

for the ultimate project, I would get Throbaks

 

+1....I'd place the above mentioned pickups in the very same order. I just dropped a pair of Throbak SLE-101 Plus pickups in my H-150, and I was amazed by how they sounded in comparison to all of the other pickps I tried in that guitar. They just have a full and balanced tone with nice output and a 3-D quality (for the lack of a better term) about them. They're pricey, but they're indeed very nice pups for the "ultimate project!"

Posted

+1....I'd place the above mentioned pickups in the very same order. I just dropped a pair of Throbak SLE-101 Plus pickups in my H-150, and I was amazed by how they sounded in comparison to all of the other pickps I tried in that guitar. They just have a full and balanced tone with nice output and a 3-D quality (for the lack of a better term) about them. They're pricey, but they're indeed very nice pups for the "ultimate project!"

 

The pickups I am most impressed with (in order) are THROBAKS- blow everything else out of the water, Peter Florence Voodoo '59s, and Tom Shorts.

 

I don't particularity care for any of the Schaller pickups or hardware.

Posted

I think I'm the only guy on the whole internet who's had problem with RS parts:

Les Paul - "Super Pot" volume knob is more like an on/off switch - horrible taper. Yes I used the correct pot.

Tele - Volume pot like an on/off switch. Yes I used the correct pot. Treble retention circuit was more like an ice pick insertion circuit - ouch! Tone knob has about 1/3 - 1/2 of the rotation feel like it's binding, grabbing, basically stuck, you have to grab it with thumb and finger to turn it.

Strat - Volume pot like an on/off switch. Yes I used the correct pot. Treble retention circuit was more like an ice pick insertion circuit - ouch!

Overall the pots had a very different "feel" from pot to pot. Some turned very easily (almost too easily), others felt nice and firm, others were quite stiff, still others could barely turn at all (see tele tone knob above).

No more of their inflated prices for parts that don't work as advertised.

You may ask "why do you keep buying the stuff?"

I tend to buy it when it's on sale, but it may be several months before I have the time to start tinkering.

I totally ignored this past weekends sale.

Posted

I think I'm the only guy on the whole internet who's had problem with RS parts:

 

I haven't dealt with RS, so no problems, but the prices of their kits alone keep me away. I just think it's very possible to order a bunch of good CTS audio taper pots (unmatched much cheaper), match the two closest ones for the volume controls toward the 500K range (tones not quite as important to match), and add two Sprague Vitamin Q PIO caps to preference. The overall cost will never be more than $40 or $45, and IMO, the tone and quality is equally on par with anything that RS offers. Of course, it all has to be hand-wired by you or a tech, but that's half the fun of experimenting with these things.

Posted

Would you keep the Schaller pickups or pitch them for Lindys.I want to do this mod right. The guitar is in great shape.

 

If I was doing the work myself, I would try the electronics kit first then see what the results are. I like the Schallers in my 157. If you don't like the tone then you can tinker some more.

 

Regarding CTS pots, I have a 2010 USA Strat I bought used on CL. One of the tone pots was hard to turn after being rotated all the way clockwise, almost like it wanted to stay in the home position. I assumed it was a faulty Fender standard pot. When I took the guitar apart I was surprised that the suspect pot was a CTS..the other two where not, I assume they are stock. This is my only experience with a CTS pot.

Posted

Again, I do appreciate others that have a different view, but I agree with what Terry McInturff says about RS Guitar works...he uses their stuff exclusively. (And in my opinion, no individual luthier does more research than Terry!)

 

"The pots and tone caps are from RS Guitarworks (The spec is for 100% RS CTS spec parts). These folks have put alot of R&D into the CTS pots that they sell, not to mention the custom-made Hoveland tone caps. I was a TOTAL "Doubting Thomas" at first...until I heard the difference in a band situation in front of several hundred folks. Could even hear the difference thru the stage monitors."

Posted

"I was a TOTAL "Doubting Thomas" at first...until I heard the difference in a band situation in front of several hundred folks. Could even hear the difference thru the stage monitors."

 

You know, I have no doubt that RS does some great stuff, so I generally agree with what most folks have to say about them, but in the above statement I believe the key words are "could hear the difference." My only question would be: "hear the difference" compared to what? If he's speaking of comparing the difference to standard stock wiring, pots, and caps, in most cases there's not much doubt that the differences will be quite audible. On the other hand, if one personally chooses caps and pots while wiring the electronics to his/her own specific needs, I'm really not convinced that one could make such a comparison.

Posted

You know, I have no doubt that RS does some great stuff, so I generally agree with what most folks have to say about them, but in the above statement I believe the key words are "could hear the difference." My only question would be: "hear the difference" compared to what? If he's speaking of comparing the difference to standard stock wiring, pots, and caps, in most cases there's not much doubt that the differences will be quite audible. On the other hand, if one personally chooses caps and pots while wiring the electronics to his/her own specific needs, I'm really not convinced that one could make such a comparison.

 

Well, again, and I have said it before, I heard a HUGE difference in the Grey Tiger (or Bumble Bee) caps. I am not so sure you should "hear" a difference in better pots - just the taper will be much larger (and even this is contingent on 3 factors 1. If you re-wired the guitar to 50s wiring, otherwise with the modern wiring I don't know if better pots do much. 2. The pickups AND 3. The caps - a crappy cap that mutes the highs won't let you take full advantage of the volume taper of the better pots.)

 

The BIG difference I heard was the "opening up" of the upper-mids. I could never really get that Billy Gibbons (ZZtop) tone until I changed to the Grey Tiger/Bumble Bee caps, switched to 50s wiring, and top a lesser extent switched to the upgraded RS Guitarworks "Super-CTS" pots.

 

Finally, for less than $80, it is the most cost-effective modification you can make for better tone & performance (in my humble opinion).

Posted

has anyone done the RS Guitar Works pots and caps upgrade and left the schaller pickups in place. Just bought an h150 with trashed electronics.Pickups seem to be fine.

 

I think NoNameBand might have used them.

Posted

I appreciate the advice. Great comments. i bought the Short shaft volume and tone controls with the Luxe Bumblebee caps. The reason I am doing this mod at all is the You tube video "Heritage H-150 Les Paul with RS Guitarworks Upgrades".

The tone on this guitar blue me away.I just don't want to spend $500 on Lindy Fralin pure paf pickups.

Iguess if you want that tone you pay the price.

Posted

I haven't dealt with RS, so no problems, but the prices of their kits alone keep me away. I just think it's very possible to order a bunch of good CTS audio taper pots (unmatched much cheaper), match the two closest ones for the volume controls toward the 500K range (tones not quite as important to match), and add two Sprague Vitamin Q PIO caps to preference. The overall cost will never be more than $40 or $45, and IMO, the tone and quality is equally on par with anything that RS offers. Of course, it all has to be hand-wired by you or a tech, but that's half the fun of experimenting with these things.

 

+1 :icon_thumright:

Posted

Mojotone also has pre made kits, when I was looking theirs seemed a little cheaper than RS and with comparable components. http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/guitar-assemblies

 

Several members here have posted that the upgrades make a huge difference and have made p up swapping unnecessary. The kits are definitely much cheaper than new p ups. I suppose you could save $ by purchasing individual components, switchs, wires etc, but much more leg work.

 

Several of my current favorite guitars where purchased used for around $600. The price of a high end set of p ups would bring me 1/2 way to another low cost wonder (currently lusting after a Bob Logan Tele which is right in that range believe it or not).

Posted

Again, I do appreciate others that have a different view, but I agree with what Terry McInturff says about RS Guitar works...he uses their stuff exclusively. (And in my opinion, no individual luthier does more research than Terry!)

 

"The pots and tone caps are from RS Guitarworks (The spec is for 100% RS CTS spec parts). These folks have put alot of R&D into the CTS pots that they sell, not to mention the custom-made Hoveland tone caps. I was a TOTAL "Doubting Thomas" at first...until I heard the difference in a band situation in front of several hundred folks. Could even hear the difference thru the stage monitors."

Have you seen Terry's new guitar - the Spitfire. That one is most GAS inducing to me.

Posted

Well, again, and I have said it before, I heard a HUGE difference in the Grey Tiger (or Bumble Bee) caps. I am not so sure you should "hear" a difference in better pots - just the taper will be much larger (and even this is contingent on 3 factors 1. If you re-wired the guitar to 50s wiring, otherwise with the modern wiring I don't know if better pots do much. 2. The pickups AND 3. The caps - a crappy cap that mutes the highs won't let you take full advantage of the volume taper of the better pots.)

 

The BIG difference I heard was the "opening up" of the upper-mids. I could never really get that Billy Gibbons (ZZtop) tone until I changed to the Grey Tiger/Bumble Bee caps, switched to 50s wiring, and top a lesser extent switched to the upgraded RS Guitarworks "Super-CTS" pots.

 

Finally, for less than $80, it is the most cost-effective modification you can make for better tone & performance (in my humble opinion).

 

Hey Kuz....I actually tend to think we're on the same page regarding an electronics upgrade, but we're essentially just looking at things from a slightly different approach. For the $80 or more that RS charges for their kits, I just tend to think that you can get - at the very least - pretty darn close to what you're describing by paying about half the price. Nine times out of 10 replacing stock components with good, quality parts will vastly improve the tone of a guitar, and I don't think either of us will deny that. While I have yet to try RS's Superpots (I intend to some day for my own curiousity), I am a strong believer in the 50s wiring as well as upgrading the electronics, pickups, and even the entire bridge and tailpiece assembly. And, like yourself, I feel that many of these upgrades will open up the sound of a guitar that may have been previously written off as a "dead-sounding" instrument. My recent acquistion of an H-150 is a prime example, for I'm quite certain that's why the previous owner sold it. That guitar arrived with modern wiring with 250K pots and bleed caps (IMO, these tend to suck tone), and after an upgrade of Throbak SLE-101+ pups, aluminum tailpiece w/steel studs, 50s wiring w/VQ PIO tone caps and matched 500k CTS volume pots, the guitar came to life big-time! In the end, less became more, and the guitar even dropped in weight by about a half-pound.

Posted

Have you seen Terry's new guitar - the Spitfire. That one is most GAS inducing to me.

 

No I haven't seen it yet, but I heard he was releasing it.

 

Do you have a link?

 

Thanks.

Posted

Hey Kuz....I actually tend to think we're on the same page regarding an electronics upgrade, but we're essentially just looking at things from a slightly different approach. For the $80 or more that RS charges for their kits, I just tend to think that you can get - at the very least - pretty darn close to what you're describing by paying about half the price. Nine times out of 10 replacing stock components with good, quality parts will vastly improve the tone of a guitar, and I don't think either of us will deny that. While I have yet to try RS's Superpots (I intend to some day for my own curiousity), I am a strong believer in the 50s wiring as well as upgrading the electronics, pickups, and even the entire bridge and tailpiece assembly. And, like yourself, I feel that many of these upgrades will open up the sound of a guitar that may have been previously written off as a "dead-sounding" instrument. My recent acquistion of an H-150 is a prime example, for I'm quite certain that's why the previous owner sold it. That guitar arrived with modern wiring with 250K pots and bleed caps (IMO, these tend to suck tone), and after an upgrade of Throbak SLE-101+ pups, aluminum tailpiece w/steel studs, 50s wiring w/VQ PIO tone caps and matched 500k CTS volume pots, the guitar came to life big-time! In the end, less became more, and the guitar even dropped in weight by about a half-pound.

 

Well, Throbaks are my favorite pups along with the other mods, so we are definitely on the same page.

 

The good news is that Heritage now ships 500K CTS pots as standard equipment.

Posted

Can't say I've ever gone the RS route.....WAY too much money for pots and caps.

 

agreed with this and the other comments regarding buying quality pots/caps (but not rs kits). pots and caps are too cheap to spend, what do they charge, $100 for a kit? no way. i can only imagine how huge their profit margin is

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