Paul P Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 Have any of you wondered about the groove along the back of a T-O-M tailpiece ? While I was fixing up my guitar I came across it and figured it couldn't be there for nothing. So decided to put it to use by inserting a piece of thick wire onto which the strings are threaded. I have no idea if this improves things in any way but it looks pretty cool : http://www.heritageownersclub.com/gallery2/d/1794-2/tail_1.jpg[/img] As can be seen in the picture I could use some of those Faber spacers. They are pretty expensive so I too will try to find something generic.
paul144 Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 Its pretty easy to remove the lower lip of the bridge post with a vise & Dremel tool. Just watch the threads don't get hit... Well, the 2nd one came out perfect, lol. Then you can get a generic spacer under there. Just make sure the spacer doesn't hit the wood, just the metal insert in the guitar. Makes sense to have support under there for sure.
Spectrum13 Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 Paul... Dude the thick wire lining up the ball ends look real cool... What happens when you break a string? ???
Paul P Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 What happens when you break a string? ??? Hey, good question ! I rarely break strings so it never occured to me I guess one way would be to use small segments of wire, one for each string. Which would probably get lost, especially on a stage. Oh well...
ThinLizzy Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 i tried top wrapping a while ago but kept breaking my high e string when tuning up so i gave up. what's the trick? i use .10's so it's not real light guage.
Spectrum13 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 Tin, I'll give it a shot. Breaking the high e when tuning up after top wrapping... your string is coming off the saddle (rear) at less of angle. If it is breaking at the saddle, I suggest... smooth out the saddle slot along the lines of the "new" string angle from the top of the saddle to the tail piece, use some nut sauce or similar lube.
ThinLizzy Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 Spec, it's actually breaking where it comes out of the rear of the tailpiece.
Spectrum13 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 OK, Suggest fix... put a extra ball on the end of the string and / or cut a smooth grove on the back of the stoptail. Most were designed to be loaded from the rear.
tulk1 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 I was looking for pictures of the old-style compensated topwrap bridge. But came across these fully adjustable topwraps at StewMac. Interesting. Here's the more traditional style compensated topwrap. Sorta.
Spectrum13 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 [/img] Tuck1, I believe he has a Nashville & stop tail not a topwrap like your pretty eye candy posted. When I set up my 137 the choices presented quite a daunting. I settled on the one as attached... Like? Korina.jpg Korina.jpg_thumb
Spectrum13 Posted February 27, 2009 Posted February 27, 2009 [/img] Korina.jpg Korina.jpg_thumb K137.jpg K137.jpg_thumb
tulk1 Posted February 28, 2009 Posted February 28, 2009 [/img] Tuck1, I believe he has a Nashville & stop tail not a topwrap like your pretty eye candy posted. When I set up my 137 the choices presented quite a daunting. I settled on the one as attached... Like? Well, not sure just exactly how pretty they are with those friggin' screws sticking out the back. I thought they were interesting, tho', being adjustable like that. I had only seen the compensated style before.
Rude Dog Posted March 1, 2009 Posted March 1, 2009 Paul, I use the extra metal spacers under tone-pro studs as well as under a one piece stopbridge and it makes sense in this regard. The Tone-Pro locks the stop bar to the studs but NOT to the body. The Faber locks to the body. Rem has a problem with high stoptails and recommend topwrap to prevent "rocking torque" as he has seen more than a couple of collapsed bridges and is no fan of the torque placed on the studs when raised up. He really liked the Faber solution with locking the studs to the body. Does that make sense? Who is this Rem fellow? Any idea how high (meaqsurement would be cool) is too high/becomes an issue? Thanks!
Spectrum13 Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 That would be Mr. Wall @ Heritage who has seen many a collapsed bridge. Factors... length of the stop screws into the threaded cap and above, how deep the top is carved after the bridge, height above the top, angle from the saddle to the bar and top wrap or standard. Metal threaded into wood over time with tension...potential problems down the road which can be more than just a tone / contact issue.
mars_hall Posted March 2, 2009 Posted March 2, 2009 Actually Rem is Ren at Heritage's dad. Rem used to do a country western program on regional TV in Michigan and thereabouts. Ren is the guy who knows the ins and outs of the Heritage guitars and has an opinion about high tailstops.
DC Ron Posted March 28, 2009 Posted March 28, 2009 After a week of playing with a raised stopbar tailpiece, I switched to top wrap and...think I like it more. SEEMS to have a slinkier feel (sorry, former F* guy), looks cool, and eliminates the exposed screws on the studs. No change in tone or sustain apparent. Did seem to eliminate an odd buzzing/resonance on the G string though. (Think I sometimes hear vibration from the less loaded spring on the Schaller pickup screws, and keep a screwdriver handy at all times.) Might still try the taipliece spacers later, but for now I'm a pretty happy camper. :wink:
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