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Noisy jack problem on H-150


Guest HRB853370

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Guest HRB853370
Posted

My 2000 H-150 has a recessed jack, and when the plug is inserted all the way, it has a little play in the jack and there is a crackling sound, to the point that if you wiggle it sideways, you will lose all the sound then it will come back when you wiggle it the other way. If I pull the plug out just slightly, it seems to lock in better and I don't have that problem. But it won't stay in that position for long and ends up going in all the way, thus creating the problem. I certainly cannot blame it on too much use, even though its 11 years old. Has anyone else had any problems with the recessed type jacks on their 150's? I notice on the newer models, they look more like G's style. As a sidenote, my G&L basses have the same type of recessed jack, and I actually had to have one replaced on my JB-2 bass.

Posted

I replaced the flush mount jack on my 140 when I first got it. Over time, they will start to get a weak connection and they aren't designed for the contact to be bent tighter. Mine was only about $10 at the local music store.

Posted

they have a flush-mount jack? like hamer uses on a lot of guitars? I thought they used only the old style ones, but, i'm not exactly a heritage expert.

Posted

I had the exact same problem on my Limited Edition Millennium 2000, what worked for me was to get a bent tip needlenose pliers and tighten the nut on the inside against the base. When that nut was loose, ground connection was lost, hence the cutting out of sound. As long as I keep my nuts tight there's no problem... :laugh_mini:

Posted

The flush mount barrel jack is a neat feature but over time I've developed problems with most all of them. My solution has been to remove them, drill the hole out larger, and install a regular 1/4" switchcraft input jack with a plastic or metal plate.

Posted

Your jack is going bad, it should be very solid, almost hard to remove and no wiggling... Check the nut to make sure its tight and check the wiring. But my strat was doing that and within a month, it broke. Cheap fix though.

Posted

Needs replaced. When you go to get the Switchcraft replacement part, buy the stereo one but wire it as mono. This one places two spring metal contacts against the plug instead of the regular one and therefore will take longer for the spring to fatigue and wear out.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Needs replaced. When you go to get the Switchcraft replacement part, buy the stereo one but wire it as mono. This one places two spring metal contacts against the plug instead of the regular one and therefore will take longer for the spring to fatigue and wear out.

 

Do I need to enlarge the hole Mark?

Posted
As a sidenote, my G&L basses have the same type of recessed jack, and I actually had to have one replaced on my JB-2 bass.

 

Those jacks are notorious for problems. Fortunately, Heritage figured that out along the way where G&L never did.

Posted

Good to know. My H-150P started having the same problem today.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Played the guitar this week and the crackling and cutting out was driving me batty. I know this is an easy fix, but I think removing the flush mounted jack without damaging the surrounding mahoganey might be tricky. Should I take this to a professional shop or attempt this myself? (I did it once on my G&L bass, but it was not quite as recessed as the Heritage jack). Tips, tricks or advice?

Posted

Played the guitar this week and the crackling and cutting out was driving me batty. I know this is an easy fix, but I think removing the flush mounted jack without damaging the surrounding mahoganey might be tricky. Should I take this to a professional shop or attempt this myself? (I did it once on my G&L bass, but it was not quite as recessed as the Heritage jack). Tips, tricks or advice?

 

I held the knurled part exposed to the outside with my fingertips, or thumb mashed up against it, and used a small crescent wrench to loosen the nut inside holding the jack just enough to finish it with my fingers. I've did this twice now and it was about the same effort for both. You could also use a washcloth (small loops in the material) pushed against the hole for friction.

Posted

I have a bad one on my Millie 155, needs to be replaced.

 

also had the prob. w/a similar jack on a Stat I once owned

Posted

I'm having the same issue with my H-150P. It too has the recessed barrel jack. Just returned from Guitar Denter with a new one (the new style jack) and a Gibson brand cover plate.

 

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it will work. The H-150P is only 1.75" thick and the edge of the jack plate would extend past the radius'd rear edge. I looks like I'll need to return the hardware for the original barrel style jack unless someone can recommend a smaller jack plate (if one exists).

 

Assuming a smaller plate is available, are there other issues that would prevent using the newer style output jack?

Guest HRB853370
Posted

You should be able to use a socket wrench to remove it. It shouldn't be a problem...

 

You are making an assumption because you have not seen what the recessed jack looks like. It is so recessed, I cannot even grip the little thumbwheel around it that holds it in place. This is not like the more modern setups where there is a hex nut holding the whole assembly in place.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

 

I held the knurled part exposed to the outside with my fingertips, or thumb mashed up against it, and used a small crescent wrench to loosen the nut inside holding the jack just enough to finish it with my fingers. I've did this twice now and it was about the same effort for both. You could also use a washcloth (small loops in the material) pushed against the hole for friction.

 

Mark, the little knurled thumb nut or whatever it is called is so recessed, there is nothing I could grip it with. Even needle nose pliers wont grip it (that is the technique I used on my G&L bass) without damaging the surrounding wood. I should bring it to PSP to show some of you. I can play it-as long as I pull the cable slightly out of the jack so it grips tightly. But that is simply a gerry-rig.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

 

Mark, the little knurled thumb nut or whatever it is called is so recessed, there is nothing I could grip it with. Even needle nose pliers wont grip it (that is the technique I used on my G&L bass) without damaging the surrounding wood. I should bring it to PSP to show some of you. I can play it-as long as I pull the cable slightly out of the jack so it grips tightly. But that is simply a gerry-rig.

 

This might help

post-2130-0-96812700-1311945055_thumb.jpg

post-2130-0-60088200-1311945072_thumb.jpg

Posted

 

Mark, the little knurled thumb nut or whatever it is called is so recessed, there is nothing I could grip it with. Even needle nose pliers wont grip it (that is the technique I used on my G&L bass) without damaging the surrounding wood. I should bring it to PSP to show some of you. I can play it-as long as I pull the cable slightly out of the jack so it grips tightly. But that is simply a gerry-rig.

 

 

Are you able to grip the barrel end with needle nose pliers within the cavity and use the small crescent? It shouldn't take a lot of torque to loosen the nut. Heritage had similar tools to install it in the beginning.

DSC_1999.jpg

Posted

If you have a old jack plug (or something of the same diameter), you could superglue it inside the jack and then use that to get a grip while you remove and replace it.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

 

 

Are you able to grip the barrel end with needle nose pliers within the cavity and use the small crescent? It shouldn't take a lot of torque to loosen the nut. Heritage had similar tools to install it in the beginning.

DSC_1999.jpg

 

Now I see what you are talking about!

Posted

Mark has a whole lot more room in the cavity shown than I had. I managed to use a pair of right angled needle nose pliers to get a grip on the nut and loosen it.

 

You probably already know this, but it's best to detach the wires before removing, and attach the leads to the new switch only after installing the nut because there's bound to be some spinning of the whole barrel when you tighten that nut.

Posted

Mark has a whole lot more room in the cavity shown than I had. I managed to use a pair of right angled needle nose pliers to get a grip on the nut and loosen it.

 

You probably already know this, but it's best to detach the wires before removing, and attach the leads to the new switch only after installing the nut because there's bound to be some spinning of the whole barrel when you tighten that nut.

 

Yes some can be tighter. The first pic was one I had handy from when I was restoring my 157V. This pic is one I replaced.

DSC_2609.jpg

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