MartyGrass Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 Here's a pic of a H157. It looks like the bridge saddles may need to be recut. Note the low E as it goes from the nut to the bridge. It drifts inward. The lower strings don't center over the pup screws like they should. I don't think that rotation of the guitar in front of the camera can account for the misalignment, but maybe. What is the problem? Thanks.
MartyGrass Posted August 22, 2011 Author Posted August 22, 2011 This guitar is similarly canted but seems to have good string placement over the pup screws.
NoNameBand Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 Here's a pic of a H157. It looks like the bridge saddles may need to be recut. Note the low E as it goes from the nut to the bridge. It drifts inward. The lower strings don't center over the pup screws like they should. I don't think that rotation of the guitar in front of the camera can account for the misalignment, but maybe. What is the problem? Thanks. At first glance, it appears to me that the 5th & 6th strings are closer than the rest. Possibly, the 6th string bridge saddle should be re-cut and moved away from the 5th string. If you change bridges, I recommend a TonePro TP6 with "un-cut" saddles and have a luthier cut them individually and according to the 12" radius of the fingerboard. TonePros Standard (Un-Notched) Tune-O-Matic - Nickel [TP6-N] They are available in all finishes including aged.
NoNameBand Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 MG, upon closer inspection, you can even see in the example of the black guitar, the 6th string angle is not parallel to the 5th string coming out of the tailpiece. It looks like the bridge is pulling the 6th string closer to the 5th. However, I don't think the 6th string should be completely over the pickup screw, probably on the right side (inside) of it.
smurph1 Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 Maybe it's just me, but it looks like the black guitar is pictured from directly on top of it, while the Goldtop is shot from an angle..but I could be wrong..
SouthpawGuy Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 Looks like the 5th string is moved up and the 6th string is moved down. Maybe the saddles were swapped or reversed for intonation purposes at some point ?
MartyGrass Posted August 22, 2011 Author Posted August 22, 2011 I was just emailed with this photo. The saddle wasn't seated on the 6th string. This shot is straight on after the correction. That was an easy fix.
yoslate Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 Martyg. that's a bad ass 157! I'd play that thing out in aNew York minute! Glad your solution was so simple.
MartyGrass Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 It's complicated trying to get this H157 back to Kalamazoo. One of our HOC brothers is helping make it happen as an intermediary with the seller. I hope it happens.
DetroitBlues Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 At first glance, it appears to me that the 5th & 6th strings are closer than the rest. Possibly, the 6th string bridge saddle should be re-cut and moved away from the 5th string. If you change bridges, I recommend a TonePro TP6 with "un-cut" saddles and have a luthier cut them individually and according to the 12" radius of the fingerboard. TonePros Standard (Un-Notched) Tune-O-Matic - Nickel [TP6-N] They are available in all finishes including aged. +1
MartyGrass Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 If I can hijack my own thread, how do luthiers know how to cut at 12 degrees? Do they have a tool or just good eyes? I believe that there were times I could have dropped the action slightly lower if I had a precision matched bridge. Generally the middle strings buzzed first.
H Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 If I can hijack my own thread, how do luthiers know how to cut at 12 degrees? Do they have a tool or just good eyes? There are radius tools available for the common sizes. StewMac stocks them. They are mainly used for fretboard radii but can be used for this purpose too.
DetroitBlues Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 If I can hijack my own thread, how do luthiers know how to cut at 12 degrees? Do they have a tool or just good eyes? I believe that there were times I could have dropped the action slightly lower if I had a precision matched bridge. Generally the middle strings buzzed first. They have radius guides that help them figure it out.
NoNameBand Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 I was just emailed with this photo. The saddle wasn't seated on the 6th string. This shot is straight on after the correction. That was an easy fix. You're welcome.
DetroitBlues Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 Does anyone find it odd the string was off the saddle to begin with?
MartyGrass Posted August 23, 2011 Author Posted August 23, 2011 Does anyone find it odd the string was off the saddle to begin with? The string was in the saddle but the saddles was out of position. The strings were loose apparently. That has happened to me when changing strings. The saddles pop in with string tension or a slight push.
DetroitBlues Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 The string was in the saddle but the saddles was out of position. The strings were loose apparently. That has happened to me when changing strings. The saddles pop in with string tension or a slight push. Ah! That makes more sense.
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