Guest HRB853370 Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Finally getting around to installing the Schaller straplocks on this 150, but I ran into trouble. On my other 2 150's, even though the Schaller screw has smaller threads than the original screw holding the original button, the screw did thread in and I was able to sufficiently torque it without stripping the threads. Well for some reason, on this guitar, the hole seems much larger, and the tinier screw that I was trying to get in the hole just ended up spinning. I tried the "toothpick" trick but to no avail either. One observation is that I believe Heritage went with a larger screw and button hole for the later models. Mine is a 2009 and the original screw is significantly larger. And you cannot use the original screw with the Schaller lock button because the screwhead protrudes out just enough that the button will not lock in the receptacle. Hints, suggestions, tips?
kbp810 Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Yep! Maybe try two toothpicks, or a slightly more substantial sized sliver/splinter of wood? (I almost said try a toothpick, good thing I re-read your post to see you already tried that before posting!) ... some even put a dab of wood glue in there along with the sliver of wood.
Genericmusic Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Wooden matches with Elmer's glue. Let it sit over night before installing.
SouthpawGuy Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Another alternative is Lock it straps: http://www.voxshowro...ngs/lockit.html I got a couple of them a while back, they're really good. No need for special strap buttons and they also work on guitars that have Schaller locking buttons already installed.
Steiner Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Grolsh locks. Don't you read the HOC comedy pages?? I fill mine with a mahogany dowel (glued in place) or fill the cavity with epoxy. Let it cure for a couple days, drill and install; never failed. The matches and Elmo's glue should work. I just don't trust match and toothpick material, there's too much riding on a failure.
Guest HRB853370 Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Wooden matches with Elmer's glue. Let it sit over night before installing. Grolsh locks. Don't you read the HOC comedy pages?? I fill mine with a mahogany dowel (glued in place) or fill the cavity with epoxy. Let it cure for a couple days, drill and install; never failed. The matches and Elmo's glue should work. I just don't trust match and toothpick material, there's too much riding on a failure. I did the wooden matchstick but no glue, didnt see a need for the glue gunking up the hole. Once I dropped the matchstick into the hole, the screw tightened nicely with no need for anything else. This way, if I ever have to reinstall the originals, it won't be a problem. Thanks for the suggestions!
tbonesullivan Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 if the screwhead is too big to fit inside the button, you can just file it down so that it does.
Guest HRB853370 Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 if the screwhead is too big to fit inside the button, you can just file it down so that it does. I tried that once Tbone, and the result was, the slots were then too shallow to turn with a screwdriver. Problem solved with matchsticks.
Kuz Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 More than likely (I have used the toothpick/wooden match trick for years) the screw will work itself loose. Next time replace the match/toothpick and add a drop or two of Elmer's wood glue and you will be set for MANY years!!!
FredZepp Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 Yeah, I've always used some type of filler, like matchsticks, and wood glue. As Steiner said ... there's a lot riding on that screw not failing .
cod65 Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 the matchstick works in most cases, but I think the surefire method is to fill the hole with a hard epoxy, let harden, then predrill a slightly smaller new hole in the epoxy.
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