Halowords Posted October 14, 2011 Posted October 14, 2011 I've been trying for some time to get a great setup on my H-150. The Prospect plays like a dream. Don't know why, that thing is perfect. Maybe someday it won't be, but for now the thing has great, low action. The H-150 WAS fine, then (probably when I switched string gauge) it got tweaked. I skimmed some directions online and now can't seem to get the action low enough without fret buzzing, and I'll get the truss rod tweaked one way where it gets better here but worse there, or vice versa. I'm also not sure my pickups are the right height or how high the strings should measure off the guitar and if I need the ole tape measure or if I need some special tool (or pocket change) to help measure this. I found some directions on the Internet, and THOUGHT I got it, but could use a little advice. My new Benford is fantastic (although it's getting a couple things tweaked) and the Prospect if just great, but I've got the urge to play my H-150 and it's grating on my that it's got these slight dead spots and that I haven't really taken the time to dial in the Sheptones I had put in a few months back. Anyway, short version, I'd love a nice step-by-step tutorial or checklist for going through and getting the action nice and smooth, preferably as low action as I can get without being ridiculous or buzzing out when I really dig in and pick, then general advice for starting out with the pickup heights and how to adjust from there for desired tonal effects.
GuitArtMan Posted October 14, 2011 Posted October 14, 2011 Ron Thorn (luthier extraordinaire) has an acronym I really like TRAIN T - Tune. R - Rod - adjust the truss rod. A - Action. Adjust the action. I - Intonate. Adjust the intonation. N - Noodle. Repeat as needed. Pickups, imho are best adjusted by ear. I usually start with factory specs but then tweak from their for my personal tastes. Personally, usually like my pickups a little lower than normal - especially humbuckers. Both the Dan Erelewine books have great tips on setting up your own guitars. If you have the truss rod properly adjusted, and you're not setting the action too low, and you're getting random buzzes up and down the neck, it sounds like your frets need to be leveled.
DetroitBlues Posted October 14, 2011 Posted October 14, 2011 Ron Thorn (luthier extraordinaire) has an acronym I really like TRAIN T - Tune. R - Rod - adjust the truss rod. A - Action. Adjust the action. I - Intonate. Adjust the intonation. N - Noodle. Repeat as needed. Pickups, imho are best adjusted by ear. I usually start with factory specs but then tweak from their for my personal tastes. Personally, usually like my pickups a little lower than normal - especially humbuckers. Both the Dan Erelewine books have great tips on setting up your own guitars. If you have the truss rod properly adjusted, and you're not setting the action too low, and you're getting random buzzes up and down the neck, it sounds like your frets need to be leveled. Sounds about right to me... Also want to invest in a straight edge to help you out. Something like this from Stew-Mac...
yoslate Posted October 15, 2011 Posted October 15, 2011 GuitArt pretty much nailed it. Some random general parameters to work from in a set up would be: Unless your preference is otherwise, get the board as flat as you can. Fret the two "E" strings with the thumb of your right hand, then tap the strings with your index finger at the second and third frets. There should be just the slightest perceptible movement of the string before it touches the fret. Do the same thing with your thumb on the twelfth fret, tapping at the seventh. Look for the slightest perceptible movement of the string, before it hits the fret wire. Good place to start with the action is 3 - 3 1/2 64ths at the twelfth fret on the treble side, 4 64ths on the bass side. A graduated feeler gauge is optimal for determining this. Pluck the string, slide the gauge under the string slowly, as the string vibrates, until the string finds a harmonic, then frets out. That's about it. Fret the strings at the twelfth. Adjust the p'ups (not the pole screws...it's about the coils, not the screws) so they're about 1/8th" below the fretted string. Then plug and play while adjusting further by ear. Tighten the tuner nuts, while the guitar is unstrung. Check the pots for scratching, and apply contact cleaner, if necessary. Tighten the jack nut, if the guitar has one. Pluck every string, at every fret, heavily, with the meat of your thumb for chimey or buzzy overtones. If you have those, back the truss rod off, just a hair (16th of a turn, at a time). While the guitar is unstrung, rub the frets and board vigorously with 0000 steel wool after covering the p'ups with masking tape. Rub a rosewood board with a non-petroleum paste wax, available at any decent woodworker's supply.
golferwave Posted October 15, 2011 Posted October 15, 2011 A quick starting point for me. I put my straight edge on the board and set the neck relief at .007" to .008" at the 7th fret ( the relief should be set at the fret halfway between the nut and where the neck joins the body.) using an automotive feeler gauge. Set the high E string at .045" between the fret and string, and the low E at .055". This will give you a good starting point.
Hfan Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 I have a good set up guide (actually 60-70 psages) that Ron Kirn was nice enough to send me while I was on a fender forum once. He said go ahead and share it. It is too large to attach here even zipped. Anyone who wants one pm me with your e mail and I will send a copy
Halowords Posted October 18, 2011 Author Posted October 18, 2011 I have a good set up guide (actually 60-70 psages) that Ron Kirn was nice enough to send me while I was on a fender forum once. He said go ahead and share it. It is too large to attach here even zipped. Anyone who wants one pm me with your e mail and I will send a copy Will do! FWIW, I got everything pretty good except some rattle on the high strings in the upper frets. Which I'm guessing means I should tighten the TR a bit. Still, it's overall better than it was. But I think a 60-something page guide by Ron Kirn would be handy to have around. If nothing else, I appreciate the offer!
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.