Kazwell Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 When adjusting the action on my H-150, I see that towards the lower frets, the strings are much closer to the fretboard and as you follow the strings higher up the neck, the strings gets higher off the fretboard. If I were to bring the action too low, the strings would obviously start to touch the lower frets. For fear that my camera wouldn't capture this clear enough, I put together a diagram via Photoshop to depict what I am trying to describle. As stated on the attached picture, this is an exaggeration of the actual angle, but I feel puts across the point very clearly as to what I am talking about. Take into account, I have adjusted the neck to the point where it will not move back-on the picture it would be downward, as far as I believe it will go. It seems to me the only way to straighten the string trajectory would be to put in a new (taller) nut. Perhaps there are other options. I am hoping some folks here have seen this type of thing before and can shed some light on this matter. All thoughts and suggestions appreciated. Thanks Kaz Click on the "Neck Angle.jpg" link below for a much larger picture. Neck Angle.jpg Neck Angle.jpg_thumb
brentrocks Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 i had problems w/ buzzing out on the 1st fret w/ my 170, while trying to lower the action.....when i had the frets dressed, i had Pete make me a new nut that was a little higher it is perfect now i have also notices this on a lot of Heritages as well....their nuts on the average are really low....that makes for headaches when lowering the action. i usually crank the truss rod a bit to give the neck a little bow, then you are able to lower the action with out making the nut higher...but then you cause other issues in the middle of the register too??????????? what to do?
Spectrum13 Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 Kas you can check the neck set angle with a straight edge but it most likely would be the nut. The nut is not cut by the plex. My 150 needed a new one. With the 137 we shimmed and slotted it as the G was too low. Factory setups unless done by Japanese are just a starting point.
GuitArtMan Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 The other possibitly is the neck is too straight and you need to loosen the truss rod to add some relief. If the neck is too straight it may buzz off of the nut and/or lower frets. A quick check is to depress the low E and/or high E string at the first fret and the fret where it joins the body (14th?) and then check for relief between. Different players and styles need slightly different relief but if your strings are resting on the frets or there's barely any clearance in the middle you need to add some relief.
brentrocks Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 The other possibitly is the neck is too straight and you need to loosen the truss rod to add some relief. If the neck is too straight it may buzz off of the nut and/or lower frets. A quick check is to depress the low E and/or high E string at the first fret and the fret where it joins the body (14th?) and then check for relief between. Different players and styles need slightly different relief but if your strings are resting on the frets or there's barely any clearance in the middle you need to add some relief. that is the way i check my necks...the 'ol 1st and 22nd high E trick ;D
yoslate Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 I concur with GuitartMan! I'm betting truss rod adjustment first. Get a bit of relief between say the second or third and sixth or seventh frets, then let the board come back up just a bit to the body joint. Then you can see where you are and make a determination as to whether the nut needs to be addressed. If your diagram represents what the guitar is actually doing, a straight line triangular divergence of strings and board, you need some truss rod work, I would think. Keep us posted.
yoslate Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 I concur with GuitartMan! I'm betting truss rod adjustment first. Get a bit of relief between say the second or third and sixth or seventh frets, then let the board come back up just a bit to the body joint. Then you can see where you are and make a determination as to whether the nut needs to be addressed. If your diagram represents what the guitar is actually doing, a straight line triangular divergence of strings and board, you need some truss rod work, I would think. Keep us posted. Sorry guys...don't know how I wound up posting this....
GuitArtMan Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 i had problems w/ buzzing out on the 1st fret w/ my 170, while trying to lower the action.....when i had the frets dressed, i had Pete make me a new nut that was a little higher it is perfect now i have also notices this on a lot of Heritages as well....their nuts on the average are really low....that makes for headaches when lowering the action. i usually crank the truss rod a bit to give the neck a little bow, then you are able to lower the action with out making the nut higher...but then you cause other issues in the middle of the register too??????????? what to do? Wierd. Only one of my Heritages had what I would consider a low nut. Even with excessive relief in the neck I was getting buzzing off of the nut. The others had what I would consider high nuts which I can't stand! It makes it difficult to play in the lower registers and causes all sorts of tuning issues on the lower frets. I like low nuts both for playabilty and for tuning. The nut should be no higher, or just a tad higher than a zero fret in my book. Thank God for Michael Tuttle - he knows how to cut a nut!
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