PUP doesn't quite fit :(

[pushover]

I received some new 59's and was making arrangements to get them in. But alas, the neck PUP doesn't quite fit 

 

The pickup chamber is too narrow. It turns out, that when the '59's were soldered they're flared (meaning wider) in the middle and it just doesn't quite fit in  I took a pix, but it didn't quite come out too well. But you might still be able to see that it's defiantly got a wider girth in the middle (sadly, not unlike myself.. perhaps we both need to be on a diet..)

 

The bridge pickup is pretty much the same shape, except that it does fit  ??? Oh well..

 

Anyone else have any kind of similar experience when changing pickups?

 

Options? Seem to be to widen the hole; to unsolder narrow and resolder the PUP cover; or to try and find another '59 PUP that's narrower.. It's always a hassle isn't it   

 

I'm not sure I want to do the kind of surgery Big Bob went through.. I couldn't possibly be trusted not to mess something like that up..

 

Oh well stay tuned.. I'll provide an update shortly.. 

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[yoslate]

Weird, the way the cover bulges out at the solder.  How much clearance are you shy?  The bulge is noticeable, but doesn't seem like, what, a sixteenth or so on each side?  Would re-soldering the cover to remove the bulge do it?  If so, being careful of the windings in there, I'd just fix that sketchy solder job, rather than rework the pickup cavity in the guitar.  All you're doing is tacking the cover on, anyway.  Good luck,and keep us posted, pushover!

[pushover]

Weird, the way the cover bulges out at the solder.  How much clearance are you shy?  The bulge is noticeable, but doesn't seem like, what, a sixteenth or so on each side?  Would re-soldering the cover to remove the bulge do it?  If so, being careful of the windings in there, I'd just fix that sketchy solder job, rather than rework the pickup cavity in the guitar.  All you're doing is tacking the cover on, anyway.  Good luck,and keep us posted, pushover!

 

The clearance is close but no cigar..  Messing with solder job is certainly an option I'm considering..

 

As I mentioned.. the bridge PuP also has a similar (possibly not so pronounced) buldge around the middle, but it fits.. Not sure if it just buldges less or the cavity is a little wider?

[big bob]

OK,the problem is that there is too much solder between the pup and cover, causing the bulge.

 

this should work for you. Please bear with me because I do not know all the product names you will need.

 

There is a product that is made to wick up solder out of a joint or off a weld, I do not know the name but I am sure you can look it up.

 

Heat up the weld on the side of the pup cover, when it turns liquid, wick it up with the unnamed product,while pushing in on the bulge.This should eliminate the excess solder between the pup and pup cover,which is your problem. If you do this quickly you should be able to remove the excess solder while still retaining a solder joint  ..ie your not eliminating all the solder in the joint just the excess. repeat on both sides. a quality electronics repair shop will be able to do this for you for a minimal cost. but being the do it yourself guy I am I would try it myself first. 

[big bob]

Solder Braid

 

Also called solder wick, solder braid is a ribbon of extremely fine copper strands woven together. It is usually supplied on small reels of about 1.5m of braid and comes in a variety of widths. The braid is pressed aginst a molten soldered joint, and capillary action draws the solder out of the joint and into the braid. The portion of braid which contains solder is then cut off the reel and discarded. It is usually sold treated with a flux so that the solder is drawn up more effectively.

 

[edit] Using Solder Braid

 

    * First, a short length (about 50mm or 2 inches) is drawn off the reel. Do not cut it off as this will reduce the usable portion of the braid, and will make it difficult to hold (the braid is made of an excellent thermal conductor, so will get very hot).

    * Next the end of this section is place on top of the solder joint requiring desoldering.

    * The soldering iron is placed on top of the braid and very gentle pressure is applied.

    * As the joint melts and the braid is pressed into the molten solder, the solder will flow up the braid, turning it a silvery colour.

          o If the solder braid stops pulling up solder but the joint has not been cleared, move on to the next unused bit of braid - it has become full of solder and can no longer draw it up.

    * Once the solder has all been removed from the joint, withdraw the iron and the braid together. If the iron is withdrawn and the braid is left, the braid will become stuck to the pad that has just been desoldered.

    * The pad should now be exposed and the component leg should be free to be removed. The pad will have a thin layor of solder left on it, turning it a bright silver colour. This will actually help with resoldering later on.

    * Cut off the used portion of braid and discard - it cannot be reused.

 

Do not melt the joint and stick the end of the braid in. This will draw up very little solder, if any, and will serve only to overheat the joint, underlying pad and the component.

 

For best results, try to use a width of braid that matches the width of the joint. Failing that, 1.5mm is a good general-purpose width of braid to use.

[Paul P]

I'd put the pickup in the jaws of some sort of clamp (with maybe a piece of wood to protect from scratches

and prevent the heat being sucked away) and while tightening it ever so slightly heat the solder up (I'd use

a pretty hot iron/gun so it melts quickly).  The excess solder will either squeeze out or wick in between the

two parts.  When it cools the bulge in the cover should be held flat against the pickup.  Do one side at a time.

 

For removing solder the best way is with an Edsyn DS017 Soldapullt :

 

    http://www.howardelectronics.com/edsyn/solderpullt.html

 

Just as important as a soldering iron, in my opinion, the thing is fantastic.  Removes just about

all the solder in a fraction of a second.

 

Paul P

[pushover]

The PUP's go in tomorrow.. I didn't want to use the 3 hole Schaller pickup rings and then my new rings got back-ordered for a week, but  they just arrived today.. So tomorrow is install day.

 

I solved the fat PUP problem by starving it for a week.. No food, water, electricity or magnetic stimulation.. It's lost about .5mm around the middle as a result..

 

O.K. more seriously.. at least slightly.. I took the advice of the  folks above and went with trying to narrow the pickup by messing with the solder joints.. It took a soft cloth, two peices of wood, vice grips and a soldering iron. I wrapped  the pickup cover in the cloth, put the peices of wood on either side of the cover, and squeezed it between the vice grips, vertically. I then used the soldering iron to melt the solder, and simultaneously tightened the vice grips to squeeze. I did this, melting the solder on each side.  .  Some of the melted solder did run down a little, but not very far, and the fact that it was vertical meant non of the solder went further into the joint between PuP and cover. All in all, it didn't narrow by much visually but it was enough to make it fit nicely in the pickup cavity without having to force it, or have it rub on the sides.

 

I took a pix, but it didn't come out well enough to show anything substantial..

 

Now I'll finish up the install and see if it sounds better.. I'd hate to go through all this for nothing.. Stay tuned for the next thrilling installment..  ;D

[brentrocks]

good job man...hope it all goes in good

[yoslate]

Nice work, push'!  Glad that all worked out for you!    ;D

[big bob]

I love it when a D.I.Y turns out right.

congrats....