MartyGrass Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I'm interested in switching out a TonePros bridge for a Schaller roller bridge in a H150 and possibly a H530. I've never done this before. How do you do this? Thanks.
mars_hall Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Just screw in the specialized post suds that go with it. Rotate the roller (spin them) till they are aligned with the respective pole piece. Stir, Adjust height to taste. Note that the rollers groove may be of different sizes for the different string gauges. Can't remember
Guest HRB853370 Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Marty if you need one I have one for sale.
MartyGrass Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 I was mostly concerned about the stud spacing. Thanks. Most guys have a preference for ABR type bridges, as did I. Now that I'm doing more fingerstyle I like the ability to splay the strings out more. I don't doubt that there's a slight drop in sustain, although I can't hear it.
MartyGrass Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 Marty if you need one I have one for sale. Gosh, and if you need some Fralins, I have some!
Hfan Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Regarding a decrease in sustain, I don't know, I like the roller bridge on my 157 athough they don't get lots of love here. The 157 seems to sustain well, as good as my tom equipped 150. A benefit is that the roller bridge provides a good break angle, the string won't contact the bridge coming from the tail piece. They are sturdy as well. Peteraltongreen made some good points a while back regarding TOMs "collapsing" or bowing after a while. Just watch the little rollers don't fall off or change positions (they can rotate) when changing strings. Once you get your spot they can be notched or use some thread lock etc on the threads. I just leave mine as is..I like to tinker a little.
MartyGrass Posted January 23, 2012 Author Posted January 23, 2012 I'm emerging from this stupid phase in which I felt everything stock on the Heritage was suspect and could be improved on. The bridge, TP, nut and pickups were somehow suboptimal. I've changed my mind. The Schaller hardware really is top drawer, just not as elegant looking as TonePros to those who are enamored by the LP. The Schaller bridge has more adjustability, although most of us don't really need to tweak the string spacing. The break angle is a plus in that it doesn't damage strings, it enhances the ease of tuning, and the bridge/TP combo is immortal. Both Schaller and SD make outstanding pickups. Grover tuning pegs almost never fail. I'm quite satisfied with the old style Heritages. I'm sure there's a profound lesson somewhere in all of this.
Hfan Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I'm emerging from this stupid phase in which I felt everything stock on the Heritage was suspect and could be improved on. The bridge, TP, nut and pickups were somehow suboptimal. I've changed my mind. The Schaller hardware really is top drawer, just not as elegant looking as TonePros to those who are enamored by the LP. The Schaller bridge has more adjustability, although most of us don't really need to tweak the string spacing. The break angle is a plus in that it doesn't damage strings, it enhances the ease of tuning, and the bridge/TP combo is immortal. Both Schaller and SD make outstanding pickups. Grover tuning pegs almost never fail. I'm quite satisfied with the old style Heritages. I'm sure there's a profound lesson somewhere in all of this. Yes, I forgot to mention I am pleased with the Schaller p ups in the 157 as well. And regarding loss of sustain, I have heard it explained by those who seems to have a grasp of such details, that by the strings not touching the base of the bridge sustain is increased. So by installing a TOM one could increase sustain which could then be reduced by the strings possibly touching the base, necessatating raising the tail piece off the body of the guitar which could decrease sustain. On the other hand, the Schaller bridge provides a nice break angle enabling the tailpiece to be lowered to the surface of the guitar body thereby increasing the sustain. However the Schaller bridge has been described as sustain robbing...blah blah blah. One thing for sure, any hardware that comes with the guitar has been paid for once and for frugal individuals that says a lot.
Guest HRB853370 Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 Gosh, and if you need some Fralins, I have some! And yes I do.
tbonesullivan Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I recall hearing at PSP IV that the guys at heritage felt the roller bridge gave the guitars a warmer sound.
Hfan Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I recall hearing at PSP IV that the guys at heritage felt the roller bridge gave the guitars a warmer sound. Ah, finally a source we can trust..very cool
bolero Posted January 23, 2012 Posted January 23, 2012 I think the roller bridges are fine. I've got a mix of both and not sure if I can hear a big diff.
TalismanRich Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 My first roller bridge guitar was my Guild S100. Its still on there, almost 40 years later. My 157 140 and Mille all have rollers, the 535 has a TOM. I don't think there is a lot of difference in sustain. Playing my 157 through the National Supreme, it just sings along, rings a long time and sounds great. The only thing that is a problem is if you remove the strings, they drop loose and can get the setup messed up. With a locking bridge, that wouldn't be a problem.
barrymclark Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I'm emerging from this stupid phase in which I felt everything stock on the Heritage was suspect and could be improved on. The bridge, TP, nut and pickups were somehow suboptimal. I've changed my mind. The Schaller hardware really is top drawer, just not as elegant looking as TonePros to those who are enamored by the LP. The Schaller bridge has more adjustability, although most of us don't really need to tweak the string spacing. The break angle is a plus in that it doesn't damage strings, it enhances the ease of tuning, and the bridge/TP combo is immortal. Both Schaller and SD make outstanding pickups. Grover tuning pegs almost never fail. I'm quite satisfied with the old style Heritages. I'm sure there's a profound lesson somewhere in all of this. there is.
MartyGrass Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 I have used some blue Loctite to hold the positions of the inserts. With care, I don't think that's necessary. I bought my Millie a half a year ago and found the previous owner super glued the inserts in place. I was able to dissolve the glue and return the bridge to like new condition fortunately.
tbonesullivan Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 I've got the roller on my 535 and on the Millie. Never had complaints. If the strings look a little off, I just mess with the rollers a bit. Definitely a must if you have a bigsby, like I do.
Kuz Posted January 24, 2012 Posted January 24, 2012 Kay Wolfe told me that Seymore Duncan did a scientific study (not just a subjective assesment), that show that the Nashville hardware produced 25% more sustain. This was the reason that Wolfe ordered all his Heritages with Nashville hardware. Don't shoot the messanger on this guys, but that is what he is quoting. I don't care for the Schaller stuff because it is so heavy, but Wolfe said it is a known fact that they decrease sustain. If you guys are interested, maybe someone should reach out to Jay about it.
MartyGrass Posted January 24, 2012 Author Posted January 24, 2012 John, I wouldn't dispute that. My primary interest in the roller bridge is so I can adjust string spacing. I also prefer that bridge when using a Bigsby, but it's not essentially. I seem to never run out of sustain, except in my archtops with wood bridges. And they're supposed to plop out the tones. Most of my guitars have those Nashville TOMs. I'm not really for 'em or agin 'em. If I had cut the slots on them personally, I'd have separated the strings a little more. But there's a learning curve on that. Too much spacing and the strings slide off the edges of the fretboard. If the slot is too deep, the bridge has got to be raised. So I'm not tampering with them.
Kuz Posted January 25, 2012 Posted January 25, 2012 John, I wouldn't dispute that. My primary interest in the roller bridge is so I can adjust string spacing. I also prefer that bridge when using a Bigsby, but it's not essentially. I seem to never run out of sustain, except in my archtops with wood bridges. And they're supposed to plop out the tones. Most of my guitars have those Nashville TOMs. I'm not really for 'em or agin 'em. If I had cut the slots on them personally, I'd have separated the strings a little more. But there's a learning curve on that. Too much spacing and the strings slide off the edges of the fretboard. If the slot is too deep, the bridge has got to be raised. So I'm not tampering with them. I have actually filed notches in the bridges of a tune-amatic before. It is not that hard or rocket science. Those bridges are cheap too. Just use a small file and make a U shape file in the bridge. If I were you, I would try this first before making all the hardware change. At least something to think about.....
MartyGrass Posted January 25, 2012 Author Posted January 25, 2012 I have actually filed notches in the bridges of a tune-amatic before. It is not that hard or rocket science. Those bridges are cheap too. Just use a small file and make a U shape file in the bridge. If I were you, I would try this first before making all the hardware change. At least something to think about..... I could get a set of saddles and give it a whirl. Thanks.
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