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Solid vs Floating Center Block


Keith7940236

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Posted

I notice that the Roy Clark and the Prospect both come with floating center blocks. I was wondering what the relative advanatages/disadvantages of a floating vs solid center block are?
I would imagine that you would have better sustain and less feed back issues with a solid block. It is mostly a tonal quality differnce?

Posted

I have a Roy and a 535 and truthfully can't tell any difference wrt sustain and feedback. Neither feedbacks under my playing conditions. In theory the floating block on the Roy would produce more of an acoustic sound, which may be true, but under amplified condition I just can't hear a difference.

Posted

I did a quick test a few years back ..... sitting directly in front of an AC30 the Prospect with floating centre block and unpotted Seth Lovers did indeed feedback sooner than the 535 with solid centre block and wax potted SD '59s.

 

Not very scientific at all but there you go.

Posted

I asked Marv that question and he said it was so it won't feedback. Having a floating block Prospect I suspect it allows the back to vibrate more than if it were attached to the block. If they did that to make the inch smaller body sound more like a 535, I have no idea.

Posted

Here is what I was looking for. Thanks Patrick!!

 

"There are two reasons for a floating block. The main reason, is that some people want to be able to screw bridge posts into the top . . . as it is on a Les Paul with an ABR1 or a Memphis type of adjustable bridge. The floating block, glued under the spot where the posts would screw into adds support and prevents the posts from pulling out of the thin carved or pressed laminate top. The builder would drill through the top and into the floating block which would be glued directly under it. They prefer to go with a floating block as opposed to a solid block, because it does still retain more of the full hollow tonal properties of a true hollow body. The floating block is sanded and fitted perfectly to the contour of the under side of the arch top."

Posted

so... the floating block is just on the top? I think I get it. The back gets to vibrate freely, while the top has the stuff on it. I think though that I like the Millennium way of doing it better, with the tail block and almost fully hollow area around the pickups.

 

I know that carvin makes a kinda non-traditional semi hollow that has twin beams running down a hollow body. the bridge studs and stop piece studs are sunk into those twin beams.

Posted

I have a floating block in my 574...1) there is a weight diff b/w floating (lighter) and solid (heavier--more wood)....2) I do feel that I get a more hollowbody tone from the floating block than I have from solid blocks. 3) Floating does suffer feedback much quicker than solid, but not nearly as quickly as my true hollow body gits.

 

I can play clean or distorted w/ the floating block and get a great sound--I just have to be cautious of feedback as volume/gain increases.

 

Personally, I like the floating block alot..Strictly my opinion though

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Here is what I was looking for. Thanks Patrick!!

 

"There are two reasons for a floating block. The main reason, is that some people want to be able to screw bridge posts into the top . . . as it is on a Les Paul with an ABR1 or a Memphis type of adjustable bridge. The floating block, glued under the spot where the posts would screw into adds support and prevents the posts from pulling out of the thin carved or pressed laminate top. The builder would drill through the top and into the floating block which would be glued directly under it. They prefer to go with a floating block as opposed to a solid block, because it does still retain more of the full hollow tonal properties of a true hollow body. The floating block is sanded and fitted perfectly to the contour of the under side of the arch top."

 

This sounds contradictory. First, what is the floating block floating on? And if it is glued, as indicated above, then how can it be floating? It this just an issue of semantics and the block is really not floating at all?

Posted

 

This sounds contradictory. First, what is the floating block floating on? And if it is glued, as indicated above, then how can it be floating? It this just an issue of semantics and the block is really not floating at all?

I guess it "floats" above the back really hangs I suppose? Also, wouldn't this increase feedback compared with a solid block?

Posted

Grown men talking about playing with blocks?! :icon_scratch:

 

 

But seriously, I guess it means that my H525 must have a floating block to attach the TonePros T.O.M. bridge posts to.

Or is there a solid block attached to the lam top and back of the guitar? I never thought of this either way. I just pick it up and play it...and smile a lot.

 

I need to get a dentist's mirror and check through the F-holes.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Grown men talking about playing with blocks?! :icon_scratch:

 

 

But seriously, I guess it means that my H525 must have a floating block to attach the TonePros T.O.M. bridge posts to.

Or is there a solid block attached to the lam top and back of the guitar? I never thought of this either way. I just pick it up and play it...and smile a lot.

 

I need to get a dentist's mirror and check through the F-holes.

 

While your at it with that mirror, clean those F holes! A clean guitar sounds better than a dirty one! Well, that might be subject to debate.

Posted

I was told by someone at Heritage that, at least with the Prospect, if you can pass a piece of paper behind the block, it is floating. If it can not, then the block is considered solid. Standard prospects ship with a floating block, I believe that the 535, and 555 ship with a solid block.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

I was told by someone at Heritage that, at least with the Prospect, if you can pass a piece of paper behind the block, it is floating. If it can not, then the block is considered solid. Standard prospects ship with a floating block, I believe that the 535, and 555 ship with a solid block.

 

I believe you are correct Keith.

Posted

 

While your at it with that mirror, clean those F holes! A clean guitar sounds better than a dirty one! Well, that might be subject to debate.

Will, interestingly, that is true of violin (family) and mandolins. One of the first things you do to increase the vol of a mando is to clean the edges of the f-holes. If they are rough it interferes with the way it projects. Smooth them out and a mando will get better projection. As well as possibly sounding better.

 

On feedback with a floating block - I have a very very small piece of natural sponge wedged under the block on my Prospect Custom. Took care of the feedback.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Will, interestingly, that is true of violin (family) and mandolins. One of the first things you do to increase the vol of a mando is to clean the edges of the f-holes. If they are rough it interferes with the way it projects. Smooth them out and a mando will get better projection. As well as possibly sounding better.

 

On feedback with a floating block - I have a very very small piece of natural sponge wedged under the block on my Prospect Custom. Took care of the feedback.

 

See where being a "smart ass" got me? I was actually being inadvertently truthful. Kenny, if this was not coming from you, I would say "baloney"! How could smooth F holes possibly affect sound? I can see how smooth contours on a bicycle would increase rider speed, but in the case of a violin or mandolin, is the air velocity increased by the smooth F holes?

Posted

Not necessarily increased, but smoothed out. Aerodynamics, from what I've been told. All those fine little hairs and imperfections present multiple surfaces for the air to pass by. That results in a breakup and more resistance to the soundwave as it exits the f-holes. It could be that there is a threshold of negative impact, where the larger f-holes on a guitar don't have such an effect. Not sure. Mostly going on what so many mandolin shops offer when they "set up" a mandolin before shipping.

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