brentrocks Posted June 28, 2012 Posted June 28, 2012 In my never-ending quest to learn more about doing my own tech work, I picked up this 1988 H 150 with a headstock break. I was going to take it to Pete, but when it arrived and i saw that the treble side had already been re-glued by the previous owner, and all that needed to be fixed was the remaining crack.... I said, I CAN FIX THAT MYSELF! Here she is as she was when i opened the case.... I gathered the tools needed for the job.... Spred the crack and injected the VENOM! Good ooooooozzz-age.... Applied the clamp.... And let her set for 3 days.... After the glue is set, I will buff out the top, re-wire, re-assemble and ROCK IT!!!!!
Guest HRB853370 Posted June 28, 2012 Posted June 28, 2012 Well, yer a dern woodworker so I can't see why you wouldn't attempt such endeavors without any trepidation!
brentrocks Posted June 28, 2012 Author Posted June 28, 2012 What do you use to buff the top, Brent? I use my cordless drill and a MOTHERS Power Ball. I start with No7 rubbing compound to get the fine scratches out and then i finish with the Turtle Wax. I dont press real hard while im buffing, i just use the high speed setting on my drill and take my time.
brentrocks Posted June 28, 2012 Author Posted June 28, 2012 Ouch. That's a nasty one! its not gonna be pretty...but when its put back together, i should have a solid H 150 to bang around
FredZepp Posted June 28, 2012 Posted June 28, 2012 great idea... a good guitar to try a DIY repair. Glue that one back to being a solid 150....
bolero Posted June 28, 2012 Posted June 28, 2012 That's great Brent Congrats!! Some of my best gtrs have repaired head stocks....after a while it becomes a non issue, they play & sound great
mtpatty Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 i wish i had your wood working and guitar teching skills...you got it in spades! congrats on that find!
schundog Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Very cool, Brent! Thanks for the step by step pictoral. I gotta get one of those Mother Balls and poishing compound. I remember you mentioning them some time ago. My 555, while a fantastic player, still needs some finish help.
kbp810 Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Bravo! Are you going to try and fill in that missing chunk below the B tuner?
DetroitBlues Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 There was a bit on stew-macs emailer that talked about repairing some of the chips on the tuning peg holes if you dare to look
bolero Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Brent how did you get the glue to ooze down into all the little cracks? dilute it a bit to make it runnier?
yoslate Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Brent how did you get the glue to ooze down into all the little cracks? dilute it a bit to make it runnier? I've done a couple of hedstock breaks at Tom's. Take a sponge and wet the crack thoroughly...don't drown it, but get the wood fiber wet. Then you massage the Titebond in, with your fingers. Work the break by flexing it slightly, back and forth, while massaging in more Titebond. Then jig it from every frigging angle imaginable...and just let it sit.
gpuma Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 cool! a member of the HOC never stops learning, really. Thank you for sharing all the details
H Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 I use my cordless drill and a MOTHERS Power Ball. I start with No7 rubbing compound to get the fine scratches out and then i finish with the Turtle Wax. I dont press real hard while im buffing, i just use the high speed setting on my drill and take my time. Interesting! Any chance you could video this so we can see how it's done?
brentrocks Posted June 29, 2012 Author Posted June 29, 2012 Bravo! Are you going to try and fill in that missing chunk below the B tuner? i wasnt planning on it...there is still a hole there for the tuner screw
brentrocks Posted June 29, 2012 Author Posted June 29, 2012 Interesting! Any chance you could video this so we can see how it's done? i might rabbit, i might
brentrocks Posted June 29, 2012 Author Posted June 29, 2012 Brent how did you get the glue to ooze down into all the little cracks? dilute it a bit to make it runnier? i did dilute the glue just a bit...but the nozzle on the end of my glue shooter was REALLY small...i was able to stick it right up into the depths of the crack and get glue completely inside.
Steiner Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 i might rabbit, i might But would I throw a lit match in the oven if my friends were in there? I know I'd take time to watch the video - as long as you don't wear a cape...
big bob Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 I've done a couple of hedstock breaks at Tom's. Take a sponge and wet the crack thoroughly...don't drown it, but get the wood fiber wet. Then you massage the Titebond in, with your fingers. Work the break by flexing it slightly, back and forth, while massaging in more Titebond. Then jig it from every frigging angle imaginable...and just let it sit. Rob, it's cool you have the time to get your hands dirty now! Retirement must suit you well. I find it quite odd you would introduce water into a crack. I would expect the water would make the wood expand. Enlarging the grain only in one spot. I would think this would make it harder to get the repair to lie flat. Learn something new every day, hope I never have a need to use this little gem. Cheers
dbetts41 Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Brent, good thread... no one has mentioned it yet but that guitar has a very good looking top on it to boot... should be a looker after your efforts.
kidsmoke Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 Very cool, Brent! Thanks for the step by step pictoral. I gotta get one of those Mother Balls and poishing compound. I remember you mentioning them some time ago. My 555, while a fantastic player, still needs some finish help. +1 on this. My 535 needs a thorough clean up as well, and if this is your standard process on all your guitars, I'd love to see how you do it. Nice job on the repair project!
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