MartyGrass Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 My Super Kenny Burrell has a stress crack in the pickguard. I brought it in to get cleated. The luthier, Pete Moreno, and I were chatting. I asked about having a spruce pickguard that would match the OSB finish as well as the grain of the top. He said it's not a problem to build at all. He's at Heritage every Monday and can cut one easily. He said there's nothing structurally wrong with spruce for that purpose and that it would match the top better. He added that he never understood why Gibson and Heritage went with maple PGs for their spruce tops. Anyone know? The correct answer cannot be that maple looks better than spruce. But it does look good. Here's the SKB in question. Here's a Super Eagle with a spruce top and a maple PG. Here's a Golden Eagle with a maple PG.
Number8 Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Not to be the contrarian...nor to promote heresy...but why should any PG be wood? Maybe I'm too practical, but my rationale is that the purpose of the PG is to protect the integrity of the wood top of the guitar, no more no less. My position is that they should all be plastic, because a wood PG will eventually be defaced with use. I'm certain this position officially puts me in the "just play the f@#$in thing" camp but on all other points I'm actually very sympathetic to the cosmetic argument (e.g. binding, gold, traps) except for this one point. This may not be helpful towards addressing your question, and I may have enjoyed too many beers tonight, but I wanted to throw that out there.
Steiner Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Their wood for bling. Nothing looks as good as wood, I don't see spruce (softwood) being as robust as a piece of maple (hardwood). It seems to me that spruce would wear much faster than maple (or ebony for that matter) for it has a much larger grain.
2bornot2bop Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Want to see how poorly a plastic pickguard holds up in appearance on an archtop guitar, view a guild 500 or X-170...the guards all look like crap with use At least with a wood guard one has the option of refinishing it if they choose, imo. Man, that's some archtop...where on earth did you ever find that!!!
Teeky Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Not to be the contrarian...nor to promote heresy...but why should any PG be wood? Maybe I'm too practical, but my rationale is that the purpose of the PG is to protect the integrity of the wood top of the guitar, no more no less. My position is that they should all be plastic, because a wood PG will eventually be defaced with use. I'm certain this position officially puts me in the "just play the f@#$in thing" camp but on all other points I'm actually very sympathetic to the cosmetic argument (e.g. binding, gold, traps) except for this one point. This may not be helpful towards addressing your question, and I may have enjoyed too many beers tonight, but I wanted to throw that out there. Can I be contrarian and suggest that there is an alternative purpose for the pickguard? I (and many others) always rest my 3rd and 4th fingers on the pickguard when using a pick to give me a datum, especially important when picking fast. In fact I wonder why they are called pickguards. I have never scratched one with a pick, on an archtop that is. You'd have to be playing in a very strange or aggressive way to damage the finish. But back to MG's query. I can't see any reason why you can't have a spruce pickguard unless it is more susceptible to cracking when thin and relatively unsupported. You could always have a maple pickguard veneered with spruce - now that goes against the grain!
SouthpawGuy Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Not to be the contrarian...nor to promote heresy...but why should any PG be wood? Maybe I'm too practical, but my rationale is that the purpose of the PG is to protect the integrity of the wood top of the guitar, no more no less. My position is that they should all be plastic, because a wood PG will eventually be defaced with use. I'm certain this position officially puts me in the "just play the f@#$in thing" camp but on all other points I'm actually very sympathetic to the cosmetic argument (e.g. binding, gold, traps) except for this one point. This may not be helpful towards addressing your question, and I may have enjoyed too many beers tonight, but I wanted to throw that out there. Older plastic pickguards would "out gas" causing oxidation of hardware on the guitar, pickup covers, tuners etc. Wood doesn't have the same problem. http://www.guitaromn...-gibson-l5.html
TalismanRich Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 I prefer a wooden guard for one main reason.... static. Most of my plastic pickguards will generate some static crackle if you rub your finger across it, and happens if you rest your fingers on the guard. The standard answer is to use a Bounce antistatic sheet. My Legacy and ASAT are very bad about this. Neither of my wooden ones will generate the static. They also look much better to me than the plastic.
Number8 Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Thank you for relieving me of my ignorance. I did not know plastic PGs caused oxidation or static.
yoslate Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Can I be contrarian and suggest that there is an alternative purpose for the pickguard? I (and many others) always rest my 3rd and 4th fingers on the pickguard when using a pick to give me a datum, especially important when picking fast. In fact I wonder why they are called pickguards. I have never scratched one with a pick, on an archtop that is. You'd have to be playing in a very strange or aggressive way to damage the finish. In fact, aren't they generally referred to as "finger rests" on Parsons Street? And that is a stunning Kenny, Mark!!
t0aj15 Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Just a guess but as for maple vs spruce it may just be that they want the extra bling of flamed wood in the pickguard and finding flamed maple is fairly easy, while finding flamed spruce is not. In fact I've never seen 'highly figured' either flamed or quilted spruce. Pretty much all the Heritages I've seen with pickguards have flamed maple pickguards including mine which is black. Also they are probably using leftovers from when they cut tops/backs. Actually I'm also curious as to why they wouldn't match the top.
Kuz Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Well, my guess would be flamed maple is prettier and harder (more "ding" proof) than spruce.
tulk1 Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 In fact, aren't they generally referred to as "finger rests" on Parsons Street? Beat me to it. But that is how the boys refer to them.
MartyGrass Posted November 8, 2012 Author Posted November 8, 2012 In fact, aren't they generally referred to as "finger rests" on Parsons Street? And that is a stunning Kenny, Mark!! Ren definitely calls them finger rests. Flat tops have pickguards. But look at the size of those finger rests. They are crazy big if they only serve to anchor your fingertips. Here's an example of a true finger rest. The guitar just got out of rehab at Heritage and needs a bath.
Gitfiddler Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Modern day plastic pickguards/fingerests are made with higher quality materials that do not outgass. Wood guards are an elegant asthetic upgrade from plastic. I'm glad Heritage elected to go that direction. Spruce is a softer tone wood than maple or ebony (my personal favorite). Two of my maple guards are cracked near the neck mounting area. Can you ask for an explanation on how he will repair yours? Will he be cleating it underneath to add strength? If so, won't the crack still be visible? I'm very interested if there is a way to repair these elegant guards.
Teeky Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Ren definitely calls them finger rests. Flat tops have pickguards. But look at the size of those finger rests. They are crazy big if they only serve to anchor your fingertips. Here's an example of a true finger rest. The guitar just got out of rehab at Heritage and needs a bath. I would say the finger rest ideally needs to be as wide as the fretboard and then some (to prevent your fingers falling unexpectedly off the edge) as you move across the strings to the top E.
DetroitBlues Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 My guess is the best use of scrap wood is to make PG's out of them...
MartyGrass Posted November 8, 2012 Author Posted November 8, 2012 I wouldn't take advantage of a large pickguard. My fingers anchor to a single spot for the most part. The repair will be with a cleat and perhaps some glue. The crack will remain visible but only to the nosey eye (?). I thought of tortoise shell but felt awkward about a Johnny Smith pickguard on a Kenny Burrell.
Blunote Posted November 8, 2012 Posted November 8, 2012 Their wood for bling. Nothing looks as good as wood, I don't see spruce (softwood) being as robust as a piece of maple (hardwood). It seems to me that spruce would wear much faster than maple (or ebony for that matter) for it has a much larger grain. +1
RhoadsScholar Posted November 13, 2012 Posted November 13, 2012 It would be great if you can find some spruce with a lot of Bear Claw in the wood grain. I have a bear claw spruce ovation custom legend that has amazing grain. I am suprised Bear Claw spruce hasn't caught on like flamed maple or quilted maple.
Teeky Posted November 15, 2012 Posted November 15, 2012 An archtop with f holes is designed for volume. The acoustic waves in spruce are about 10 times faster down the grain than across (the f holes encourage the fast waves) and so dissipate their energy quickly (and loudly). I suspect bear claws, although looking nice, would impede fast waves and decrease the volume. It would be fine for a round hole which encourages slow waves - good resonance. Though as most H's are electric it's all a bit academic I'll get me coat!
MartyGrass Posted November 15, 2012 Author Posted November 15, 2012 An archtop with f holes is designed for volume. The acoustic waves in spruce are about 10 times faster down the grain than across (the f holes encourage the fast waves) and so dissipate their energy quickly (and loudly). I suspect bear claws, although looking nice, would impede fast waves and decrease the volume. It would be fine for a round hole which encourages slow waves - good resonance. Though as most H's are electric it's all a bit academic I'll get me coat! Interesting. I've never thought of how compression and rarefaction could be facilitated directionally by the grain. That may explain the preference among the old school luthiers to seek out tight grain. About bear claws- they look cool. Nuff said there!
Teeky Posted November 15, 2012 Posted November 15, 2012 Yes it's good isn't it? Lloyd Loar knew what he was doing!
HANGAR18 Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 It would be great if you can find some spruce with a lot of Bear Claw in the wood grain. I have a bear claw spruce ovation custom legend that has amazing grain. I am suprised Bear Claw spruce hasn't caught on like flamed maple or quilted maple. What does that look like? Never heard of Bear Claw. Got pictures?
HANGAR18 Posted November 18, 2012 Posted November 18, 2012 Interesting! Learn something new all the time.
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