gpuma Posted January 18, 2013 Posted January 18, 2013 Quick question to the infinite wisdom of the HOC: If I had to move from Grover Tuners to Shallers, would I be required to drill new holes on the headstock?
gpuma Posted January 18, 2013 Author Posted January 18, 2013 http://s1171.beta.photobucket.com/user/giopuma/media/P1030088.jpg.html
Ned Posted January 18, 2013 Posted January 18, 2013 I happen to know that the Schallers in question are are TK 0971 http://allparts.com/search.asp?search=&keyword=tk+0971
gpuma Posted January 18, 2013 Author Posted January 18, 2013 a quick look at the pics seems to suggest that, yes new holes are required. The Shallers's screw bracket is parallel to the tuner axis while the Grovers' screw bracket is perpendicular to it but I defer to the community wisdom
tbonesullivan Posted January 19, 2013 Posted January 19, 2013 the annoying thing about schallers is that they have different screw locations for their locking and non locking versions. So if you have the schaller tuners, and want something locking, you've got no choice but to drill.
rooster Posted January 20, 2013 Posted January 20, 2013 I've been a long-time user of Sperzel tuners. Having said that, Grovers are fine tuners, they seem to keep Jimmy Page happy (although compared to 1959 Kluson tuners, what wouldn't?). They also make locking tuners, IIRC. I would look for those to keep the re-drilling to a minimum. If you must change brands, though, there is a nice little jig-tool available at StewMac that aligns your drill bit to give you a cleaner hole when you re-drill. rooster.
gpuma Posted January 20, 2013 Author Posted January 20, 2013 Thank you guys. I am not planning to change brand unless needed. I want to avoid drilling
nachogrande Posted January 21, 2013 Posted January 21, 2013 I've just changed my Groovers to Schaller M6 Locking Tuners. You have to drill the headstock for sure. However, there is a locking model of Groover as well, which fits perfectly to the drills on the headstock.
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