Noob-to-be question: Schaller tailpiece replacement

[Kingsman]

What is newer than a noob -- maybe a noob who's first Heritage guitar is headed his way in a FedEx truck. I'm getting an H150 with Schaller hardware. I'm planning to check the setup and play it for some time before I do any mods. But I'm thinking one of my first would be a new tailpiece. This is initially about looks. Shallow but simple, right? I find looks is easier than tone when it comes to early mods, since with looks you know what you're gonna get. In all the photos I see here and Google, the Schaller tailpiece just doesn't look as good to me as vintage (and new) tailpieces....

 

I've read a lot of threads here about Gotoh, Faber, TonePros etc, 'locking' setups, aluminum v. zinc, string angle, and wrap v. pull-thru, and I'm starting to get it. But I'm wondering if I can get a drop-in solution or if I'd need or want to replace the tailpiece inserts. Let me also confess I've been a Fender guy 'til now -- I never installed anything more invasive than a strap-lock screw. If you'd suggest I want / need to replace the inserts, how hard is that?

 

I'm thinking about a locking setup. If you can suggest a drop-in replacement for Schaller tailpieces, do you know if I want metric or inch threads? What other factors simply for fit should I consider (post spacing, string spacing, post diameter, etc.)

 

As I say, I'll play the guitar for a while before I change anything, since I imagine questions like Al v. Zn depend on what tone she has now, but for the moment I'm really just asking about tailpiece fit / threads / inserts. (Heh, if you feel compelled to comment on the Schaller bridge or pickups, I won't be offended.)

 

Yes, I'll try to post pics after I recover from playing the guitar for like 48 hours straight!!!

[H]

The TonePros kit is a drop in replacement and both tailpiece and bridge lock to the posts. No need to replace the inserts.

LPNM04 set (T3BP bridge, T1ZS tailpiece)

The 'N' in the code refers to nickel finish. This is a metric bridge and an imperial tailpiece, same as for the Gibson Les Paul.

I've fitted these to all the Heritages I've owned aside from an H-516 which had the H tailpiece.

[Kingsman]

Thanks. I've been looking at those TonePros. Knowing the tailpiece is imperial is also very helpful. I think I saw a post from you in a related thread that recommended both the TonePros and the Fabers. Do you happen to know if the Faber ToneLock tail kit also works as a drop-in solution?

[H]

I've used the Faber kit a few years ago on a Gibson Les Paul and I certainly didn't have to pull the inserts for that. The inserts for 535s, 170s and 150s are identical to those on a Gibson Les Paul with a Nashville bridge. LPs with an ABR bridge are a different animal.

 

The Faber kit is very good - they have an excellent locking system for the tailpiece. The TonePros is more than good enough though, and it's available in a lot more places.

 

Your choice - either way, you can't go wrong

[bobmeyrick]

I suspect the tailpiece has more effect on sustain than the bridge. I got a used Schaller Nashville bridge/tailpiece from eBay which had come from a Gibson Les Paul. The bridge saddles were notched, but not quite right for my 150 so I kept the original Schaller bridge (with the roller saddles) and used the Schaller stopbar tailpiece. The studs were a direct replacement (not really surprising as they were Schaller!) and even though it wasn't a locking tailpiece here was a definite improvement in sustain.

 

[HANGAR18]

I'm a new owner of a Schaller rolling bridge which came installed on the used guitar I bought recently, and I know what you mean about their looks. I don't find them to be very attractive but I plan to keep it in service.

 

I'm hoping to learn more about the Schaller rolling bridge system because the string position at the bridge on this particular guitar of mine seems to be adjustable, and as a result, some of the strings are moved over a little more than I would like. For example, the high E has fallen off the fretboard while playing because it is really close to the edge. So I don't know if the previous owner did that on purpose because he doesn't play the high E string and he wanted more room for the other strings or if they just got out of alignment between string changes. I thought maybe I would improvise a string spacing gauge from a piece of paper and my other H157 and use that to space the strings out the same way on the new/used H157.

[Kingsman]

Thanks all. Very helpful. H, appreciate that info on Faber and TonePros. Bobmeyrick, is that a Schaller tailpiece in your photo? The roller bridge I see, but the tail looks like what I'm aiming for. Either way, it looks great. Hangar18, I have everything to learn about Schaller bridges, but I suspect many on this forum can lend some insight.

[bobmeyrick]

Bobmeyrick, is that a Schaller tailpiece in your photo? The roller bridge I see, but the tail looks like what I'm aiming for.

 

Yes it is - it's one I got from eBay (which had come from a 1990s Les Paul). The original on the guitar was this one (the SH model) -

 

 

More on the Schaller stop tailpiece here.

 

HANGAR18, the advantage of the roller bridge is the easy adjustment of string spacing.

[skydog]

I feel like a guitar weenie saying this, but I don't like the Schaller bridge either based solely on appearance .

[58super]

I feel like a guitar weenie saying this, but I don't like the Schaller bridge either based solely on appearance .

Yes, it seems to be a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

[gpuma]

I am not a fan either BUT:

I think we need to make a distinction based on the shape of the guitar. For example I quite like the Shallers bridge with fine tuners I have on my Little One

[bobmeyrick]

I wonder if Schaller were thinking in terms of the economies of scale - make a load of bridges and add fine tuners to some of them? If you had the time/inclination/tools you could probably convert one to fine-tuner status...

[gpuma]

probably the casting is the same, they just do a different machining:

[big bob]

the schaller roller bridge is the only bridge I like with a bigsby!!

Schaller parts are made as well if not better than the other options.

having said that Ive been known to change parts just for apearance as well

[Kingsman]

That's very useful, y'all. Bobmeyrick, thanks, you've got another handsome tailpiece for me to check out. Mine looks like your original -- sort of like a Hohner harmonica.

 

That Schaller site has tons of tech detail and if you're into cool finishes (check out the black chrome, or ruthenium with gold) a lot of other info stored in a lot of tabs...