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Straplock buttons on a hollow body


Guest HRB853370

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Guest HRB853370
Posted

I never trust conventional strap buttons so I was pondering installing the Schaller locking type on my 574. But I am very hesitant to remove the stock ones and install the Schallers for fear of stripping the out holes. There isn't nearly as much wood to lock down on as say, on a 150 correct? Are my fears just all for naught?

Posted

Check out LOXX as alternative to Schaller or Dunlop. These never come loose from the strap, go on and off easier than any other lock I've ever used, and they just ... work! BTW, on my 555 and Prospect I install the strap bit in reverse to say a 150/157. Helps the strap lay flatter, brings the guitar in closer to the body.

Posted

Check out LOXX as alternative to Schaller or Dunlop. These never come loose from the strap, go on and off easier than any other lock I've ever used, and they just ... work! BTW, on my 555 and Prospect I install the strap bit in reverse to say a 150/157. Helps the strap lay flatter, brings the guitar in closer to the body.

 

+1 on Loxx

 

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Guest HRB853370
Posted

I use a locking strap, saves the bother of changing strap buttons on multiple guitars.

 

And it works with existing buttons and Schaller locking buttons, even fits a PRS no problem.

 

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http://www.lockitstraps.com/

 

Cool idea Paul!

Posted

Yeah, I use the same two straps on everything now. One regular version and another for a guitar with the button on the heel of the neck, ala 535 / 576 / Eagle etc. One end of the strap is reversed so it doesn't rub off the body causing scratches or swirls. Highly recommended.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

The Lockitstrap might be the answer for my 3 archtops (525, 550, 574). Having a dedicated strap for those makes sense. I really don't to F with the hardware on those 3.

Posted

The Lockitstrap might be the answer for my 3 archtops (525, 550, 574). Having a dedicated strap for those makes sense. I really don't to F with the hardware on those 3.

 

check out my post just above.

Posted

I have Schaller Strap Locks on all my Archtops.

 

Do it, Do it!

Posted

Whatever straplocks you choose, you can adjust the size of the screw hole. I have done this many times on many guitars of all types. If the hole from the original is too narrow, you need to drill it out, or the new screw will be to hard to get in, and you might split the wood. I use a hand drill, not electric, and proceed with caution. If the hole is too wide, coat a wooden toothpick with Elmer's glue and plug up the hole. The toothpick will stop when you've reached the bottom of the hole -- break it off flush with the top of the hole. You may need more than one toothpick, width-wise. Let it dry overnight. Do not drill out the toothpick, just screw the straplock in -- it will hold tight.

 

I suppose if the new straplock screw were significantly longer than the original one, and you were concerned about going too deep, you could hacksaw some off the end, but I have never had to do that.

Guest HRB853370
Posted

Whatever straplocks you choose, you can adjust the size of the screw hole. I have done this many times on many guitars of all types. If the hole from the original is too narrow, you need to drill it out, or the new screw will be to hard to get in, and you might split the wood. I use a hand drill, not electric, and proceed with caution. If the hole is too wide, coat a wooden toothpick with Elmer's glue and plug up the hole. The toothpick will stop when you've reached the bottom of the hole -- break it off flush with the top of the hole. You may need more than one toothpick, width-wise. Let it dry overnight. Do not drill out the toothpick, just screw the straplock in -- it will hold tight.

 

I suppose if the new straplock screw were significantly longer than the original one, and you were concerned about going too deep, you could hacksaw some off the end, but I have never had to do that.

I have only used Schaller straplock buttons. I have found consistently that the screw they provide is slightly thinner than the OEM screws that are holding in the stock strap buttons on Heritage (and Gibson) guitars. In most cases, I can use the screw provided by the new buttons, and it will thread in just fine and snug up with no toothpick needed. I did however, need to use a toothpick one time on a Heritage 150 on the lower bout button. The hole was a little too large for the smaller screw provided with the Schaller strap button, so I stuck the toothpick in the hole so it bottomed out, Then I broke it off flush with the top of the hole. Insert the screw and snug it down and no glue needed. The reason I don't use glue is that once it dries in that hole, it will be more difficult to remove the strap button if I ever need to. Whenever I sell a guitar, I always re-install the factory provided strap buttons.

  • 1 month later...
Guest HRB853370
Posted

I received my NEW Lock-It leather strap today from Sweetwater. A little pricey at $69.99 (free ship) but that was the best price anyplace. Really nice, and convenient. Thanks to all who suggested this strap!

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Guest HRB853370
Posted

Didn't know there was a leather version, mine are the regular poly ones.

Oh yeah, the cloth one was not even an option for me. Much cheaper, but cheaper. I like leather, and the extra cost was well worth it! Should outlive me!

Posted

Heritage doesn't offer strap locks custom order, do they? Definitely would be cool to avoid all the drilling. We all know drilling into a masterfully build instrument is never fun.....

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