MartyGrass Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 This is my first time doing this, but I have watched it before. So see one, do one, teach one. The purpose of cutting the saddle was to get a wider string spread. The current spread is 2 1/32". I widened it to 2 3/32". First I got a bridge from Stew-Mac. This itself can be controversial. The bridge has feet, not a single base plate. Some argue vehemently that the larger the surface contact area of an archtop bridge base, the more acoustic energy is transmitted to the sound board. Benedetto disagrees and writes that a bridge with feet creates a better acoustic tone. He believes that amplified it makes little difference. Let's see what Stradivarius did to create his elite sound. Okay, so it is a bridge base with feet! I used a Heritage saddle as a reference for notch depth, but really I now believe I didn't need it. The string should be about half buried in the notch when done. I then put the saddle in my vice with a precision ruler secured next to it. Here are the string diameters. The files should be slightly wider than the strings. To be continued.
SouthpawGuy Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 Interesting. Is the notch depth of half the string diameter just a rough figure ? Wouldn't the strings make their own depth once they're spaced out to taste and sitting in a "starter notch" ?
MartyGrass Posted September 6, 2013 Author Posted September 6, 2013 I notched the saddle with the small file 2 3/32" apart. I then made small notches for each string carefully measuring the spacing. I then used the appropriately sized files for each slot. The depth should be half or slightly more than the string diameter so that the string is well seated. The front of slot (toward the nut) should be parallel to the fretboard when filing. The back of the bridge saddle should be filed with a slant toward the top to accommodate the string break angle. This is a bit subtle but still easy. The slots of the larger strings can be rounded out at the trough by running a round wound string through it with downward pressure as a file of sorts. That will round out the slot more since the files cut square. Here's the finished saddle. Note the string spread is slightly wider than the standard Heritage. Installed. And it works!
Kuz Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 Are you really going to use the base plate with FEET???? Patrick would be verbally slapping you now!!!
MartyGrass Posted September 6, 2013 Author Posted September 6, 2013 Interesting. Is the notch depth of half the string diameter just a rough figure ? Wouldn't the strings make their own depth once they're spaced out to taste and sitting in a "starter notch" ? Don't assume I know what I'm doing or talking about! I learned from watching mostly, and this is my first saddle on an archtop. But yes, it's a rough figure. Ebony is a tough wood but it wears down over time. The notching is simply to prevent the strings from popping out, at least when first cutting them. Later you can adjust the string height with a file. I filed the unwound strings notch deeper than half for two reasons. First, they are the most likely to pop out due to bends. Second, it's hard not to cut less than 0.01" deep. This was fun to do. Worse case scenario was being out $24 for the bridge.
MartyGrass Posted September 6, 2013 Author Posted September 6, 2013 Are you really going to use the base plate with FEET???? Patrick would be verbally slapping you now!!! You are correct, sir. Ren Wall thinks it doesn't matter at all. And in my case, he has to be right. There are so many other problems I have with my playing that worrying about bridge feet is ridiculous.
Gitfiddler Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 Marty~ You are one BRAVE soul to attempt that on your bridge. The final result looks great. The Stradivarius photo shows an extremely fragile looking bridge set-up. It's a wonder it didn't bend with each stroke of the bow!
SouthpawGuy Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 Don't assume I know what I'm doing or talking about! I learned from watching mostly, and this is my first saddle on an archtop. But yes, it's a rough figure. Ebony is a tough wood but it wears down over time. The notching is simply to prevent the strings from popping out, at least when first cutting them. Later you can adjust the string height with a file. I filed the unwound strings notch deeper than half for two reasons. First, they are the most likely to pop out due to bends. Second, it's hard not to cut less than 0.01" deep. This was fun to do. Worse case scenario was being out $24 for the bridge. The reason I asked was that on an acoustic guitar with say 12 gauge strings the notches will get deeper over the years. Well that's what I've noticed on several of my acoustics. On an Eagle with a wooden bridge I'd guess that process would happen faster as the material itself is softer. btw Shirley you don't intend bending strings on your Super Eagle !!! That's what teles are for
Kuz Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 You are correct, sir. Ren Wall thinks it doesn't matter at all. And in my case, he has to be right. There are so many other problems I have with my playing that worrying about bridge feet is ridiculous. To be honest, I think Ren cares more about the fact that the pressure from the strings pushing down on the feet make this bridge work on ANY archtop and he doesn't have to sand a solid base plate (non-feet base plate) to fit the curve of the top of the guitar. That is probably why those "feet base plates" were invented... They fit all tops with no sanding. But I am with you, that I don't know if they make any difference in tone. And if they are good enough for a 3 million dollar Strat violin, well......
Keith7940236 Posted September 7, 2013 Posted September 7, 2013 Thanks for sharing, I'm interested also maintaining my guitars without having to run to the luthier's every time I want to make an adjustment of modification.
bolero Posted September 7, 2013 Posted September 7, 2013 pretty neat stuff!! and look at all the cosmetic holes in that strad bridge...WTF was he thinking?
MartyGrass Posted September 7, 2013 Author Posted September 7, 2013 The post spacing on the Stew-Mac bridge isn't the same as Heritages. So the Stew-Mac saddle won't fit on a Heritage bridge base. The posts are narrower on the Heritage version. The main consequence of this new bridge base is the loss of the eagles. I can't hear a difference in acoustic or amplified tone, but that's just me with my pathetic playing. The footed base seems okay to me. And the new string spacing works better for me. Here's the old bridge. If anyone knows where I can get an uncut saddle that fits on Heritage's standard bridge base, please let me know. Heritage is out of them now. The post spacing is 2 7/8", whereas the Stew-Mac is just a hair shy of 3".
MartyGrass Posted September 7, 2013 Author Posted September 7, 2013 I found some saddles. The need sanding and buffing maybe, but they're cheap and compensated. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Archtop-jazz-guitar-bridge-saddle-EBONY-Standard-Gibson-T-O-M-post-spacing-/390570871702?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5aefd68b96
Steiner Posted September 7, 2013 Posted September 7, 2013 I know "a guy" who can extend the holes for you...
MartyGrass Posted September 8, 2013 Author Posted September 8, 2013 I know "a guy" who can extend the holes for you... Yeah, I heard this guy is a magician with wood. In fact, my wife and I were talking about his cutting boards just this morning and hoped there might be another Christmas sale.
Steiner Posted September 8, 2013 Posted September 8, 2013 Yeah, I heard this guy is a magician with wood. In fact, my wife and I were talking about his cutting boards just this morning and hoped there might be another Christmas sale. If you can get the bridges up this way (say with the next Sweet 16), I'll get them to that guy. Once the local weatherman says no more shooting lacquer, the guy tends to change operations. I would imagine that there will be more breadboards in the future.
2bornot2bop Posted September 9, 2013 Posted September 9, 2013 The post spacing on the Stew-Mac bridge isn't the same as Heritages. So the Stew-Mac saddle won't fit on a Heritage bridge base. The posts are narrower on the Heritage version. The main consequence of this new bridge base is the loss of the eagles. I can't hear a difference in acoustic or amplified tone, but that's just me with my pathetic playing. The footed base seems okay to me. And the new string spacing works better for me. Here's the old bridge. If anyone knows where I can get an uncut saddle that fits on Heritage's standard bridge base, please let me know. Heritage is out of them now. The post spacing is 2 7/8", whereas the Stew-Mac is just a hair shy of 3". Send her to the coast, I'll be happy to advise you if there's a discernible difference - Always happy to lend a hand.
Ned Posted September 9, 2013 Posted September 9, 2013 thanks Marty - the posting is bookmarked. I think of making minor height adjustments when I dial in insanely low action and one string buzzes first. Great to start out with the Strad - spruce looked OK on that one, but for tone, I prefer some bear claw.....
SouthpawGuy Posted September 9, 2013 Posted September 9, 2013 Send her to the coast, I'll be happy to advise you if there's a discernible difference - Always happy to lend a hand. HOC camaraderie at its' finest !
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