MartyGrass Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 I figured out last night why I need to readjust the string spacing on these bridges from time to time. When I remove strings, I usually loosen them the cut them. When I put new ones one, they are much looser at first than how loose I make the old strings before cutting them. That means the strings are rolling the bridge saddles more during tightening that the strings are rolling them the opposite way during string removal. This shifts the saddles toward the bass side. The heavier strings roll the saddles more, so the low strings drift more to the bass side. The only way I know to stop this madness is Loctite, red not blue. I haven't tried it yet, but it won't hurt anything. Here's a pic, The rollers are supposed to spin freely and do help with more precise tuning and with Bigsbies. But you can picture how the saddles can drift leftward with restringing. You heard all of this thoughtful analysis and problem solving first on HOC right here!
GuitArtMan Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 This is one of the reasons I don't like the Schaller bridge/tail peice. That and they are fugly has hell.
MartyGrass Posted October 31, 2013 Author Posted October 31, 2013 Now I'm not speechless. The Schaller design is a good engineering work of art but not so much a visual one. For Nashville and ABR type bridges, those slots have got to be cut right. That has been such a common issue for me that I learned to do that myself. The slots can be too shallow (higher action) or deep (buzzing). The spacing may be off or there may be burrs. The most recent Heritage I got had a string spread of 1 15/16" at the bridge. That's just too narrow. The usual is 2 1/16". Some might like the strings closer together. That's fine. I personally like them at 2 3/32" but can live with the standard spread. The Schaller is easily adjusted- just roll the saddles into place. One word of caution about TonePros- not all of their bridges allow you to replace the saddles. I was prepared to do that when I found that the saddle screws cannot be removed. The tech from TonePros confirmed that the only way to get the saddles out was to break the bridge. This bridge came on a recent Heritage. I forget the model #. But once the slots are cut, it's the point of no return.
smurph1 Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Two words...TonePros (or is that one word?)+1
GuitArtMan Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Now I'm not speechless. The Schaller design is a good engineering work of art but not so much a visual one. For Nashville and ABR type bridges, those slots have got to be cut right. That has been such a common issue for me that I learned to do that myself. The slots can be too shallow (higher action) or deep (buzzing). The spacing may be off or there may be burrs. The most recent Heritage I got had a string spread of 1 15/16" at the bridge. That's just too narrow. The usual is 2 1/16". Some might like the strings closer together. That's fine. I personally like them at 2 3/32" but can live with the standard spread. The Schaller is easily adjusted- just roll the saddles into place. One word of caution about TonePros- not all of their bridges allow you to replace the saddles. I was prepared to do that when I found that the saddle screws cannot be removed. The tech from TonePros confirmed that the only way to get the saddles out was to break the bridge. This bridge came on a recent Heritage. I forget the model #. But once the slots are cut, it's the point of no return. Slots cut too hight leads to higher action? Just lower the biedge! That's what those two thumbscrews are for. Filing the slots in the bridge is no tougher for a good luthier than filing the slots in the nut. Do you use an adjustable roller nut? Not able to replace saddles on a TonePros's bridge? I guess I must have perfromed a miracle then. For my next trick I'll try walking on water. Serioulsy mine had tiny little C clips that neeed to be removed, once that was done they popped out as easy as pie.
MartyGrass Posted October 31, 2013 Author Posted October 31, 2013 This TonePros model does not allow changing slots. There are no clips on this one. Fortunately I have a small box of various bridges that I can change the slots on if needed. The roller nut idea is clever. I haven't had much trouble with strings catching on the nut. My trem guitars either have Graphtech nuts or polished bone slots. I don't doubt you are capable of miracles though!
bolero Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 I like the ease of adjustability of the Schallers, and I used to use them, but don't like them anymore every guitar I swapped out the Schaller's for a traditional bridge has sounded better, to my ears. call me crazy also I have had issues with random buzzing and general lack of solidity in the tone, with 2 of them. it may be because there isn't a sharp enough break angle off the back of the roller bridge, or the fact that it sits on threads with a lot of air gaps & not much metal-to-metal contact. certainly not as much as a flat, machined piece of metal
58super Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 I like the ease of adjustability of the Schallers, and I used to use them, but don't like them anymore every guitar I swapped out the Schaller's for a traditional bridge has sounded better, to my ears. call me crazy also I have had issues with random buzzing and general lack of solidity in the tone, with 2 of them. it may be because there isn't a sharp enough break angle off the back of the roller bridge, or the fact that it sits on threads with a lot of air gaps & not much metal-to-metal contact. certainly not as much as a flat, machined piece of metal My experience exactly. I'm much happier with a Faber bridge.
Hfan Posted November 3, 2013 Posted November 3, 2013 I kind of like the roller bridge on my 157, good for palm muting and you are not locked into one string position forever. They also provide a good break angle if you want to put the tail all the way down, the strings won't hit the bridge edge. Mine sounds ok to me. When I got it dialed in to my liking I put clear nail polish on the threads. If you ever did want to move them you could but they shouldn't move on their own. If you go the locktite route I'd use the blue, semi permanent. Really though the nail polish works well and is invisible. I even put some on where the roller shafts sit on the bridge so they don't fall out when changing strings. I had a top luthier tell me he likes the roller bridges and makes a burr in the threads so the rollers don't move. I did replace the Schaller tailpiece which I didn't like the look of. I had one string a little out of position on my 150 with a tone pros, or whatever was stock in 2006, Nashville bridge. I filed a 2nd slot on the saddle to better position the string, thought it would be temporary til I got a new saddle..sounds like they are not replaceable?
JackBaruth Posted November 4, 2013 Posted November 4, 2013 http://www.callahamguitars.com/abr1.htm Made in the US.
MartyGrass Posted November 4, 2013 Author Posted November 4, 2013 http://www.callahamguitars.com/abr1.htm Made in the US. Callaham is as good as it gets.
DetroitBlues Posted November 4, 2013 Posted November 4, 2013 Readjusting the saddles doesn't seem like a big deal. But unless the bridge was combined with a bigsby, I'd replace it.
rockabilly69 Posted November 4, 2013 Posted November 4, 2013 You are not crazy, they don't sound good! I like the ease of adjustability of the Schallers, and I used to use them, but don't like them anymore every guitar I swapped out the Schaller's for a traditional bridge has sounded better, to my ears. call me crazy also I have had issues with random buzzing and general lack of solidity in the tone, with 2 of them. it may be because there isn't a sharp enough break angle off the back of the roller bridge, or the fact that it sits on threads with a lot of air gaps & not much metal-to-metal contact. certainly not as much as a flat, machined piece of metal
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