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Need a Speaker Recommendation Jenson Neo 12 or Tornado for DRRI Jazz Amp


ingeneri

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Posted

Now that I'm back in the States, I'm thinking of getting some long delayed mods done to my DRRI (clip bright cap, add mid-pot, upgraded power tubes, etc...) I'd like to lighten the load with a neo speaker.

I like the sound of the stock Jensen and would want the neo to sound like that as much as possible. I'm only making the change to reduce weight, not "warm up the sound". Therefore, I'm not looking at the Webers that are even heavier (but if they have a neo version of the 12f150....).

I'm hoping someone on this forum has experience with the Jensen Neo 12 or Tornado speakers to advise which is closer to a standard C12K. Obviously, I'm looking for something that does not diminish headroom with an early breakup but I also want to avoid early neo mag models that are infamous for exacerbating the icepick sound. Thanks.

Posted

I'd go with the Eminence.

 

I put an Eminence Redcoat Tonkerlite neo speaker in my Kustom Defender v50 to lighten it up a bit. I love that speaker. I'll never go back to a giant ceramic magnet in that thing.

Posted

I think the extra weight of the Webers are worth it.

Posted

You might also look at the Eminence Lil Texas. Medium breakup, and neo mag. Its voiced more Jenson than Celestion. I rather like Eminence speakers.

 

It's my understanding that the Lil Texas is a good fit for a DRRI. As an aside, I played a DRRI for 10 years, and found the whole bright cap thing to be unnecessary The only issue is really that it adds some fizzyness to your tone if you use certain stompboxes for low volume distorted tones, especially with single coils. The most effective "mod" I did was to retube the thing with some Tung Sol reissues and properly bias it. The bias was set so cold the amp sounded brittle. When I got the idle current set right the amp warmed up quite a bit, had added harmonic content, and became very responsive.

Posted

I had picked up some old Magnavox p232 alnico 15's in the past, they were ice picky. Went down to the local Wal-mart automotive section and got some liquid electrical tape, a kind of rubber cement used to cover and waterproof soldered as well as crimped wire connections. It worked perfectly to damp some of the highs. a little goes a long way. I coated the surround with it. Go easy, the tone is more damped on the top end after an overnight cure than after the one hour drying time. Doing the back side of the cone looks less obvious. Another benefit is that the paper is greatly strengthened. I took a piece of blank paper and put a very thin layer on it, let it dry, and then tore the paper right through the application site, the glue stretched several inches before letting go, long after the paper tore. it's my standard speaker rip fixit stuff. Occasionally in the past I got speakers off eBay that stupid sellers failed to properly pack and the cones were torn around the edge where the paper met the surround. It takes very little to bond the torn paper back together, don't need to lay down a big wide area both sides of the rip, just the edges of the tear and maybe 1/16th to 1/8th either side. Saved spending for a recone.

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