EddiePie Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 I've got a 535 which does not stay in tune. It has the roller bridge, which I don't like, too noisy. Could this be the problem?
Thundersteel Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 My guess is the nut. Can you describes the symptoms more?
JohnCovach Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 While opinions here are divided on those bridges, I always replace the roller bridges. But I agree; it seems likely the nut is the problem.
fishin_jimmy Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 How old are the strings? Before you do anything else to fix your problem, check the age of your strings. If they are more than 6-8 weeks, you should change them out as a troubleshooting step. Also, you should change to a set of strings that are the same gauge and style so that you don't compound your tuning problem with action, intonation and stress on the neck issues. Be sure to stretch out the new strings and ensure that the windings are properly secured on the tuners to prevent slippage. After that, there are a myriad of web sites that give troubleshooting advice on fixing tuning issues. Just do a google search on "guitar will not stay in tune" If you don't want to do all that, you could also just have the guitar setup by a competent repair person. They'll check the nut for binding, intonation, action, etc. IMO, nothing beats a decent setup - like preventative maintenance on a car- just get in and drive (just grab and play) Good luck! Dan
Mikenov Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 The Nut - The Nut- And the NUT! I have had three heritages. The first two I owned kept terrible tune untl I replaced the nut. IMO heritage makes a great guitar but there are some things they just don't do well and cutting nuts is one of them. I think once they have the guitar built they just don't spend enough time on the final details. This is one of the drawbacks of a truly handbuilt guitar. there is no CNC machine finishing off the necks and cutting the nut slots. Before you do anything else have a profesional luthier put a new nut (prefferably bone) onto that guitar. If done right I would put good money that it fixes your tuning problem.
EddiePie Posted November 3, 2008 Author Posted November 3, 2008 The strings are new and have been stretched out. After playing the guitar just doesn’t stay in tune. It seems I’m seeing a lot of suggestions that the nut is the problem so maybe that’s it. I don’t have this problem with any of my other guitars. If I were to "lube the nut," what should I use?
brentrocks Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 i have heard a lot of people say pencil lead (graphite) i use chapstick
chico Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 any string in particular with tuning issues? G? B? is it a new guitar, or one you've had a long time, or bought used? do you live anywhere near the factory? i second the lube the nut suggestion. chapstick or graphite before going to the trouble of replacing the nut. when replacing strings, run them through a rag soaked in WD40. that's what Ren suggested to me. will slow string degradation and help lube the transistion point at the nut. Had tuning issues w/my H150 and Millie DC, no more. you can always email Ren at heritageguitar@kalamazoo.net too.
Bombassa Posted November 3, 2008 Posted November 3, 2008 The strings are new and have been stretched out. After playing the guitar just doesn’t stay in tune. It seems I’m seeing a lot of suggestions that the nut is the problem so maybe that’s it. I don’t have this problem with any of my other guitars. If I were to "lube the nut," what should I use? Use a pencil to lube the slots in the nut. If the slots are poorly cut, then you will probably feel and see if the bottom of the slots are smooth cut or not. I am very certain that you will find some rough cutting.
Cryoman Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 It's the nut. It is always the nut. Nut-lube, graphite, ear-wax, monkey spit, etc are all temporary measures.... Your Heritage nut is made of plastic. It's called white Corian (another fancy name for plastic). Other similar nuts are called Micarta, Tusq. These are other fancy names for, yes, plastic. A cow or camel bone nut replacement is what will fix your tuning woes. But it has to be cut correctly so that the string does not bind as it exits the nut at the tuner side. You can tweak your plastic nut for better performance sometimes but it will still be plastic.... I've posted complete instructions previously and hope you'll take a look. It's easy, fun and you will reward yourself with a great playing guitar, no tuning issues and the satisfaction of doing something really cool for your guitar. Cheers, Cryoman
High Flying Bird Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 The Nut - The Nut- And the NUT! I have Mike's old 150 with the bone nut. I bend strings like nobody's business and that guitar just don't go out of tune. It looks like I am going to have to re-nut all of my guitars.
brentrocks Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 It's the nut. It is always the nut. Nut-lube, graphite, ear-wax, monkey spit, etc are all temporary measures.... Cheers, Cryoman [glow=red,2,300]LMAO[/glow]
fishin_jimmy Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 so what I think you are saying is that it is the nut.....
Mikenov Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 Dude, I tried to hammer it home because Ron's cherryburst H150 has drill holes on the back of it because I didn't listen to people and added locking grovers to my old guitar before replacing the nut. The locking tuners didn't fix the issue. as soon as I replaced the nut on that guitar it kept tune the way these guitars are meant to keep tune.
SouthpawGuy Posted November 5, 2008 Posted November 5, 2008 so what I think you are saying is that it is the nut..... The Nut - The Nut- And the NUT! Could be !!!! ;D Don't know about anyone else but personally myself I think it's the nut. :angel:
Jasper Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 Agree with Dan - string age is the usual problem if you gig regularly. My 535 is my regular gigging tool, my 550 only gets out3 or 4 times a year. I reckon once a month or 6 gigs on the 535 max.
yoslate Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 It's the nut. It is always the nut.... I've posted complete instructions previously and hope you'll take a look. It's easy, fun and you will reward yourself with a great playing guitar, no tuning issues and the satisfaction of doing something really cool for your guitar.Cheers, Cryoman An endorsement here (unsolicited, of course), boys! Cryo knows whereof he speaks! Dredge that thread out of the archives if you're new to the HOC. The pics are very informative and the DIY angle is on it! Oh, yeah..."it's the nut."
Kuz Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Big Bends Nut Sauce- it comes in a syringe and you apply a small portion to the nut- INCREDIBLE stuff. Apply it during string changes and no tuning problems, no "pings", nothing but big bends & TONE. Big Bends Nut Sauce is a combo of very fine ground up graphite & Vaseline. Best thing is it doesn't turn your nuts dark (guitar nuts that is). Google: "Big Bend Nut Sauce"
High Flying Bird Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Best thing is it doesn't turn your nuts dark (guitar nuts that is). What if your nuts are dark to start with? Will it make them lighter? Mine are usually blueish.......
big bob Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 enough with the nut's humor , check how you wrap the strings...
fishin_jimmy Posted November 9, 2008 Posted November 9, 2008 One more serious thing- regarding tuning. Always tune up, never tune down. I was having problems tuning at one point and a guitar tech told me that the way tuning pegs are designed, you should always go below desired key state and tune up to your note. So for example, if your B string is sharp, tuned down to A flat and tune up to B. Hope this makes sense. Have fun!
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