Paging Dr. Steiner, STAT

[DavesNotHere]

I'm posing this instead of a PM just in case it may help out someone else if you are in such a situation.

So Greg, a trem string hook broke in the Kahler in my STAT.

Replacing it took about 15 minutes, but when I was removing the trem, one of the screws broke off in the body after a couple of turns. It wasn't binding at all, I didn't feel it break, it just started turning and turning.

So the million dollar question is... what is the best way for a wood neophype to remove the screw without doing any damage?

And yes, I did notice it was installed with a bit of an offset.

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

[DetroitBlues]

You'll have to tap it out and use a dowel to fill the hole.

 

That would be my assumption...

 

Is the bridge ground wire supposed to be like that?

[Gianluca]

if you make a web search (rough example: "guitar broken screw removal") you'll find lots of articles/pictures showing tecniques and solutions

but

I'd bring the guitar to a good luthier and let the job be done by who knows what/how to do (imHo)

[Steiner]

I'd be remiss if I didn't tell you the guitar is broken beyond repair. You should send it here so I can give it a proper burial...

 

That's an interesting one; well done! There are a few tricks that won't work because the fastener is too close to the cavity.

 

I would start with a thin Dremel cutting tool and try to put a slot in the screw that you can get an eyeglass screwdriver in. If you can back it out far enough to get a hold with vice-grips, you're home free. I'd cut over from the cavity side. Because the screw is so close to the cavity, the damage is minimized. To fill the hole, I'd use a toothpick with wood glue. Once the glue dries, drill a pilot hole and install a new fastener.

 

I've recently seen (not used) a screw extractor tool that cuts away material around the screw. Stew Mac has a screw rescue kit at a mere $65! I would imagine you can find it elsewhere for less The alignment guide is very important, because you're so close to the cavity. Here, you'll need a dowel to fill the wood you remove, Woodcraft sells a wide variety of woods and sized dowels although Home Depot has plug cutters for about the same price as dowels. If I have the size, I can send you a couple plugs made from hard maple.

 

Whenever you replace a screw in wood, ALWAYS turn the fastener backwards until you feel it drop into the threads that are already there. You may additionally consider a small dab of wax placed in the hole before you begin installing. The wax helps the fastener slide so you get a better indication of when the fastener is tight and avoid over-torquing.

 

Keep us abreast of developments!

[Genericmusic]

1/8" left hand drill bit with the drill on reverse. Once the drill penetrates the screw it'll back itself out.

[DavesNotHere]

Thanks for the input guys.

I wound up doing what you suggested Greg.

After a wee dram Saturday night to steady the nerves, I took the dremel tool to the screw and cut a slot and then used a jeweler's screw driver to back it out.

Since it was so close to the inside of the pocket, there was no damamge to the finish. Woo Hoo!

I couldn't find a replacement screw on a Sunday afternoon, so I'll have to wait for another package from Wammi World.

So, all in all I'm declaring victory.

 

Is the bridge ground wire supposed to be like that?

There is really nothing to attach it to on the bottom of the trem.

I would never ground something like that, I'd be afraid of fretting oxidation, but it seems to work with the screwed in trem holding it in place.

[DetroitBlues]

Good deal! Glad it ends well for you!

[Steiner]

Excellent! I'm happy it worked out for you. I believe GenericMusic's idea would have worked too but I wouldn't have tried it being so close to the cavity without a drill press and guide.

 

I trust you'll enjoy that Stat in good health!

 

Congrats.