Gitfiddler Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 My local FedUp driver dropped this off a little while back. I had it tuned up by a local amp tech (New Matched JJ 6V6's, Switch, Caps, Resistor, grounded plug). She's been around the block a few times, and has a few 'beauty marks', but the innards are solid...and now ready for another 47 years! This is my first time playing through an old Princeton Drip Edge (non reverb) w/Emi.Legend 10" speaker. Just cranked it up. Whoa, what a tone! Now I get it!
tulk1 Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 That's a cool little amp. Nice vintage score. Gotta admit I wasn't sure what a drip edge was. Bit of a rats nest in the chassis, eh?
Yooper Posted May 21, 2016 Posted May 21, 2016 Sweet. I have to wonder how that one compares to the Champ II.
Gitfiddler Posted May 22, 2016 Author Posted May 22, 2016 Sweet. I have to wonder how that one compares to the Champ II. Champ II: 2 6V6 and 2 7025/12ax7's, plus a solid state rectifier for 18 watts. Princeton: 2 6V6 and 2 12ax7's, and a GZ34 tube rectifier for 15 watts. It sounds bigger and more compressed than the Champ II, likely because of the GZ34 and larger cab. But the Champ II get angrier (in a good way) due to its pull-out Mid-Boost. That's why I pulled the chassis and run it as a mini-head.
FredZepp Posted May 22, 2016 Posted May 22, 2016 Nice one... something special about a Fender tube workhorse..
212Mavguy Posted May 22, 2016 Posted May 22, 2016 Nice snatch! Cool thing about 5 volt rectifier tubes, you can swap them out and get different sounds out of the amp as a result. In 2 watt heater ratings that amp could run on 5v4, 5r4, or 5y3 as well. These are listed in order from slightly less oomph than the gz34/5ar4 to quite a bit less in the 5y3. That can help in voicing for one's choice of tones.
Gitfiddler Posted May 22, 2016 Author Posted May 22, 2016 Nice snatch! Cool thing about 5 volt rectifier tubes, you can swap them out and get different sounds out of the amp as a result. In 2 watt heater ratings that amp could run on 5v4, 5r4, or 5y3 as well. These are listed in order from slightly less oomph than the gz34/5ar4 to quite a bit less in the 5y3. That can help in voicing for one's choice of tones. @212Mavguy: I always learn something new from your amp posts! Thanks.
Yooper Posted May 22, 2016 Posted May 22, 2016 Champ II: 2 6V6 and 2 7025/12ax7's, plus a solid state rectifier for 18 watts. Princeton: 2 6V6 and 2 12ax7's, and a GZ34 tube rectifier for 15 watts. It sounds bigger and more compressed than the Champ II, likely because of the GZ34 and larger cab. But the Champ II get angrier (in a good way) due to its pull-out Mid-Boost. That's why I pulled the chassis and run it as a mini-head. Thanks. Different enough, so now I can justify getting one. Woo hoo! Small amps rock.
Rod Posted May 23, 2016 Posted May 23, 2016 Are you sure it's not a '68? I have a '68 Super Reverb that I took the drip edge off of before I realized it was a somewhat sought after identifier. I thought it looked like someone had added the trim off of a screen door. I later replaced it. '68 was a transitional year. Some of the '68's have blackface circuitry, some silver face. I think the smaller amps retained the blackface circuitry longer than the bigger amps. Mine has now been blackfaced, although I'm really not sure of the differences. It's a good amp now, but it was a good amp before, when working properly.
Gitfiddler Posted May 23, 2016 Author Posted May 23, 2016 Are you sure it's not a '68? I have a '68 Super Reverb that I took the drip edge off of before I realized it was a somewhat sought after identifier. I thought it looked like someone had added the trim off of a screen door. I later replaced it. '68 was a transitional year. Some of the '68's have blackface circuitry, some silver face. I think the smaller amps retained the blackface circuitry longer than the bigger amps. Mine has now been blackfaced, although I'm really not sure of the differences. It's a good amp now, but it was a good amp before, when working properly. Good question, Rod. The seller wasn't sure if it was a '68 or '69 either! My very basic research determined that the 'drip edge' aluminum trim surround identifies 1968 Silverface amps. However, the serial number of mine (A 11378) dates it as a January 1969 production, so who really knows what happened in Fullerton, CA during those transitional years. It could be a late '68, early '69 amp. I'll check the transformer code (first two digits are the year codes) to get more info. Princeton Circuit: AA964 (silverface) Serial Numbers: A10000 to A11000 - 1967-68 A11000 to A15000 - 1969-70 http://www.superiormusic.com/page195.htm
Gitfiddler Posted May 25, 2016 Author Posted May 25, 2016 Tranny decodes to a '68. Must have been finally put together early January '69 as best I can figure.
Hfan Posted May 27, 2016 Posted May 27, 2016 Congrats. I bet it is cool. Is that chassis shot the before or after? I see stuff I would have swapped out but I know enough to be dangerous ha ha. Enjoy.
Gitfiddler Posted May 27, 2016 Author Posted May 27, 2016 Congrats. I bet it is cool. Is that chassis shot the before or after? I see stuff I would have swapped out but I know enough to be dangerous ha ha. Enjoy. Thanks, Hfan~Chassis and amp shots are before...from the seller. My amp tech dude went through it with a keen eye and hot soldering gun. I stayed out of his way!! Now it sounds MUCH bigger and cleaner than when I first got it.
212Mavguy Posted May 27, 2016 Posted May 27, 2016 And THAT is why old amps need to be recapped periodically in the filtering section(s) at least. Anybody who thinks that a vintage, even collector grade amp should have all its original parts in it is failing to grasp a real concept. The purpose of an amplifier is to operate properly, not in a deteriorated state. Some old amps that have a special sweet tone may have gotten that from certain resistors changing their values over time, most often drifting upwards. Certain parts need to operate within close tolerances, however...And one best way to get an old Fender amp with carbon comp resistors to stop crackling is to replace them with all new fresh ones, to original tolerances, I have a Super Reverb that has been blueprinted by my tech with all new cathode, grid, plate, and screen resistors, the same vintage Allen Bradley carbon comps that came in it. It rings like a bell it sounds so pristine! Original values sound great...yup. There have been several iterations of the Princeton amp from Fender, fascinating to look at the schematics and layouts for the tech weenie content. Way to go on the git-er-done due diligence maintenance thang. Reminds me of the 6 P's... Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance!
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