Current bridge stoptail on H-150s’

[davesultra]

On the current production models, are the bridge and tailpiece studs Imperial threads or Metric?

[davesultra]

?

[bobmeyrick]

I wouldn't know for certain, but if they're using a Nashville-style set, the bridge will be metric (M5) while the tailpiiece will be Imperial.

[davesultra]

I remember the earlier “H” guitars used the metric Schaller stuff, but went imperial with the switch to Tonepros. Just don’t know with the post TonePros hardware.

[skydog52]

Received some information from Ren.

 

Currently they are using Pinnacle locking bridges ( aluminum with zinc saddles ) and aluminum stoptails.  USA made.

Factory said they are about to change what is installed on H-150s. 

I did a little research on Pinnacle and it looks like Metric from what I saw.

[skydog52]

This is all I could find.

https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/search.php?search_query=pinnacle&section=product

[skydog52]

This is the latest one I have received. This was Artisan Aged.

 

[Gitfiddler]

3 minutes ago, skydog52 said:

This is all I could find.

https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/search.php?search_query=pinnacle&section=product

 

These are the fine folks who did the engraving of the HOC H-137 truss rod covers. 

[rockabilly69]

22 hours ago, skydog52 said:

This is the latest one I have received. This was Artisan Aged.

 

wow that tailpiece is up high and yet the strings just barely clear the back of the bridge, or is that an optical illusion on my part?

[loudtubeamps]

31 minutes ago, rockabilly69 said:

wow that tailpiece is up high and yet the strings just barely clear the back of the bridge, or is that an optical illusion on my part?

Yeah, that's alot of stoptail bolt in the air with zero clearance at the back of the bridge.??

[skydog52]

19 hours ago, rockabilly69 said:

wow that tailpiece is up high and yet the strings just barely clear the back of the bridge, or is that an optical illusion on my part?

 

18 hours ago, loudtubeamps said:

Yeah, that's alot of stoptail bolt in the air with zero clearance at the back of the bridge.??

Yes it is. I've seen it before. Who knows what usually causes this?

By the way, this guitar plays like a dream and has a killer sound. Before I even plugged it in it had "that" resonance I like to hear.

[rockabilly69]

2 hours ago, skydog52 said:

 

Yes it is. I've seen it before. Who knows what usually causes this?

By the way, this guitar plays like a dream and has a killer sound. Before I even plugged it in it had "that" resonance I like to hear.

The neck angle typically 'causes it. If it gets above 4 degrees up goes the tail. Early 50's Les Pauls had the lower angle, when you tried to put an ABR on them and you had to slam the bridge and tail piece down to get them to work right. But, if it plays good and sounds good, it is good:) I'd top wrap it if it were mine. 

[TalismanRich]

It seemed to me that the neck angle also showed up with the bridge sitting up high as well.   That one doesn't seem to be riding above normal.

The amount of carve on the top will also change things.   Assuming they are still belt sanding the bodies the same way, there can be some variations there.    Watching them work a body with that slack belt sander was pretty amazing.    Too heavy of a touch and you could knock 1/4 inch off pretty quickly!

[skydog52]

42 minutes ago, rockabilly69 said:

The neck angle typically 'causes it. If it gets above 4 degrees up goes the tail. Early 50's Les Pauls had the lower angle, when you tried to put an ABR on them and you had to slam the bridge and tail piece down to get them to work right. But, if it plays good and sounds good, it is good:) I'd top wrap it if it were mine. 

 

4 minutes ago, TalismanRich said:

It seemed to me that the neck angle also showed up with the bridge sitting up high as well.   That one doesn't seem to be riding above normal.

The amount of carve on the top will also change things.   Assuming they are still belt sanding the bodies the same way, there can be some variations there.    Watching them work a body with that slack belt sander was pretty amazing.    Too heavy of a touch and you could knock 1/4 inch off pretty quickly!

This one was definitely the carve. You can see it. Treble side is normal. 

+1 on top wrap. If it was mine I would do it also.

This is one reason I'm glad they are going to start carving them with the CNC technology. 

 

[Kuz]

It also looks like the saddles are cut a bit low (over-cut where the strings sit) as well.  Maybe buying some new saddles (or even buying higher saddles than what normally comes with this bridge, would help) and re-cutting them less could help.

FWIW, all the Heritages I have owned I changed to Faber bridges & stoptails.  Everyone (including the many I have sold) had correct neck angles and the strings cleared bridges and the locking aluminum stoptails could be cranked down to the body.

This guitar is a perfect example of why I (personally) won't buy a guitar that is top wrapped.  The owner would have to restring the guitar back to traditional style to allow me to see if the neck angle is correct and if the strings will clear the bridge.  If the owner won't restring it traditionally, then I will pass on it.  Top wrapping hides to many flaws in the guitar.

 

[Spectrum13]

Low E and the A string slots are cut deep and are far forward although the saddles are well in the middle of the bridge. Assume some work was done to match the radius of bridge and fingerboard. I replaced all my Nashville bridges to ABR (Faber) as the narrower width provides more clearance to the stoptails. IMO Nashville bridges allow more saddle travel needed when the bridge studs were drilled a bit off.  

[davesultra]

I remember when I didn’t obsess over these types of issues (like the tailpiece being up high). My attitude used to be like the old “Record Rating” thing on American Bandstand. “It’s got a good beat, and I can dance to it” was good enough for me. Well, not anymore as I find the weirdest most seemingly unnoticeable to the untrained eye bugs me. Snd hell, I can’t play worth a sheet either!!!

[honkeyjim]

I just received my first H150 over the weekend, unfortunately it had a broken headstock.  Luckily the owner of the shop I bought it from insurers everything and has been super cool in making things right.  The shop sets up every guitar prior to shipment and the one that arrived also had the bass side of the tailpiece sticking way up. While I never got to play the guitar due to the damage, I just know this would drive me crazy!  I feel stuck, the owner has another H150 he wants to ship out, but truth be told if it wasn't for the damage I would have returned this one.  The owner says this is the first damaged headstock he's had in 3 years and I he seems like super nice guy and delivers excellent customer service.  I'm torn, as I really appreciate all his effort to make things right, but I don't want to get stuck with a guitar I won't use much only to sell for a giant loss.  On the other hand, I feel kind of indebted to this shop for their customer service and to return the second one would just feels giant D*ck move and increase the risk of having a second headstock break during shipping if I'm not satisfied.  This is a huge purchase for me and quite a gamble on a $2500 guitar unplayed.  Any advice?   This is my first post here.

[TalismanRich]

Looking at it,  it seems to me that itssimply a function of the amount of carve on the top.   The bridge itself is very low.   You need enough clearance for the back of the strings and with the carved top dropping off, the stoptail has to be raised.  Lots of people would deck the stoptail and top wrap the strings.  I wouldn't go that route, but others do that routinely.     

I would play it without a second thought.

 

[DetroitBlues]

The tailpiece is so high so the strings would stay off the bridge.  Very common to see, but two fixes for this.  Top wrap the strings or raise the tailpiece.

I prefer to top wrap.