Rude Dog Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 I'd be interested in knowing how the maple on a 150 compares to a LP standard from 57-60. Anyone have an idea? Yeah, yeah, some here don't care that's cool.
cosmikdebriis Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Yeah, yeah, some here don't care that's cool. But then again some do... And it's their forum too :wink: Ask/say what you like... I do >
plexirocker 68 Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 The maple cap on the 150's are 3/4, same as standard G LP's. 58-60 Bursts are a bit thinner at 1/2" Many Greco's, Burnys, Tokais and Edwards have the correct maple thickness. I just kills me when these brands get wragged on for the thinner tops, they are actually to vintage spec ;D Regarding the long neck tenon debate. It's about a tight neck fit, not so much the tenon length. I have had the pleasure years ago when I was doing studio work to rent/play many vintage Gibby's. The current Heritage 150's are as good as any of them, probally more consistant and they intonate correctly. ;D IMO the Heritage stuff has the real/true vintage tone. Grab a set of real good clone PAF's and you got it.They are the only company that really nails it. A few great replica builders can do the trick also, but that's a LOT more dough. After playing many killer old strats and teles and poor ones too, I went on a mission to find a affordable alternative to them. Fernandes guitars from the early 80's are the real deal, closest you'll get for cheap. Heritage is the closest you'll get to the Gibby stuff, no contest. IMO The current Historic stuff isn't even close. It's ALL in the WOOD!!!!!!!!!! It's Gotta be Honduran. Actually maple cap thickness,tenons and the like are secondary. Wood and pickups is the key. plexi
Kuz Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 The maple cap on the 150's are 3/4, same as standard G LP's. 58-60 Bursts are a bit thinner at 1/2" Many Greco's, Burnys, Tokais and Edwards have the correct maple thickness. I just kills me when these brands get wragged on for the thinner tops, they are actually to vintage spec ;D Regarding the long neck tenon debate. It's about a tight neck fit, not so much the tenon length. I have had the pleasure years ago when I was doing studio work to rent/play many vintage Gibby's. The current Heritage 150's are as good as any of them, probally more consistant and they intonate correctly. ;D IMO the Heritage stuff has the real/true vintage tone. Grab a set of real good clone PAF's and you got it.They are the only company that really nails it. A few great replica builders can do the trick also, but that's a LOT more dough. After playing many killer old strats and teles and poor ones too, I went on a mission to find a affordable alternative to them. Fernandes guitars from the early 80's are the real deal, closest you'll get for cheap. Heritage is the closest you'll get to the Gibby stuff, no contest. IMO The current Historic stuff isn't even close. It's ALL in the WOOD!!!!!!!!!! It's Gotta be Honduran. Actually maple cap thickness,tenons and the like are secondary. Wood and pickups is the key. plexi Karma up. I couldn't agree more and very well put. Nice review for guys contemplating their first Heritage purchase (something we already know = Heritage is the original and defines Modern vintage humbucker guitars!)
cosmikdebriis Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Many Greco's, Burnys, Tokais and Edwards have the correct maple thickness. I just kills me when these brands get wragged on for the thinner tops, they are actually to vintage spec ;D Regarding the long neck tenon debate. It's about a tight neck fit, not so much the tenon length. As a Greco fan of many years I'd just like to agree... They made very accurate copies towards the higher end of the ranges, even with nitro finishes and braided pickup wiring. Unfortunately they were so keen to imitate the Gibbons of the 70's they even copied the pancake bodies I think their "dowelled" tenon is probably the best design of all. On a normal tenon design the string tension is trying to lift the neck and there's not much to stop it except the strength of the glue. A dowelled tenon cures that. What about a proper "dovetail"... :angel: (Not that I've a problem with any Heritage tennons, just a structural observation). :wink:
tulk1 Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 I think their "dowelled" tenon is probably the best design of all. On a normal tenon design the string tension is trying to lift the neck and there's not much to stop it except the strength of the glue. A dowelled tenon cures that. Dave, are all the Greco's like that? When I first looked at the pic I thought it was repair job. The dowels aren't symetrical in application. Just curious. I'd always been told that glued joints were actually structurally more sound than the wood itself. I would think the string tension trying to lift a neck from the joint would be a non-issue on a well built guitar.
yoslate Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 I noticed that, too, Kenny. I'm wondering of the offset has anything to do with the cutaway, as that is a Les Paul style guitar?
tulk1 Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 I noticed that, too, Kenny. I'm wondering if the offset has anything to do with the cutaway, as that is a Les Paul style guitar? Good observation, Rob. Logic at work. ... Scary for so early in the morn. :wink:
Rude Dog Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks for all the info! The maple cap on the 150's are 3/4, same as standard G LP's. 58-60 Bursts are a bit thinner at 1/2" Many Greco's, Burnys, Tokais and Edwards have the correct maple thickness. I just kills me when these brands get wragged on for the thinner tops, they are actually to vintage spec ;D Regarding the long neck tenon debate. It's about a tight neck fit, not so much the tenon length. I have had the pleasure years ago when I was doing studio work to rent/play many vintage Gibby's. The current Heritage 150's are as good as any of them, probally more consistant and they intonate correctly. ;D IMO the Heritage stuff has the real/true vintage tone. Grab a set of real good clone PAF's and you got it.They are the only company that really nails it. A few great replica builders can do the trick also, but that's a LOT more dough. After playing many killer old strats and teles and poor ones too, I went on a mission to find a affordable alternative to them. Fernandes guitars from the early 80's are the real deal, closest you'll get for cheap. Heritage is the closest you'll get to the Gibby stuff, no contest. IMO The current Historic stuff isn't even close. It's ALL in the WOOD!!!!!!!!!! It's Gotta be Honduran. Actually maple cap thickness,tenons and the like are secondary. Wood and pickups is the key. plexi
Mikenov Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 I have two 150s . The Gold one and the Almond Burst. The gold one is a factory second for the record. Goldie looks visibly thinner than any of the other 150s I have ever owned. Goldie is about 8 and a half lbs too so its lighter than most 150s I have played. The tops look the same size though. Its the Mahogony part thats seems off.
cosmikdebriis Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Dave, are all the Greco's like that? When I first looked at the pic I thought it was repair job. The dowels aren't symetrical in application. Just curious. I'd always been told that glued joints were actually structurally more sound than the wood itself. I would think the string tension trying to lift a neck from the joint would be a non-issue on a well built guitar. Not all Grecos are made this way but that's partly because not all Grecos were built in the same place. Some later ones were built by Tokai and even in Korea by the late 80's. The Korean ones are pretty awful affairs with Basswood bodies (no cap) and the shallowest tennon I've ever seen. The pic (from my web site) is of a typical 70's Greco. I have always assumed the tennon was offset to compensate for the cutaway. I certainly can't think of any other explanation. Of course Basswood is tone neutral and as such, theoretically, ideally suited to guitar making... :-X But I daren't mention it because I may start a revolution ;D
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