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Heritage 140 2nd Ed Replacement 3 way toggle switch


fuzzylogic8250

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Posted

Can someone please tell me tell most appropriate replacement 3 way toggle switch to fit into  a 140 2nd edition?  The year is around 2009.   Do I use the long or sort shaft and what is the difference regarding the length?  Is it just a matter of what fits the cavity?

Tanks,

 

Jason

 

Posted

Thank you.   I have looked at it but not measured it.  It's more of the vintage style I guess without the horizontal  bar at the end where the wires connect.    I have to order the part and I do not want to order the wrong one.    

Posted

A cheap caliper can help a lot around home and also working on guitars.  You can get them for as low as $20.00. 

Posted

Thanks.  That is pretty much identical to the switch I am going to change (see below).   Any suggestions for a rugged replacement switch?   The current switch will not toggle between the positions correctly.   At first it would have trouble finding the bridge pickup and now it's really unpredictable.   I guess I am hard on the switch when playing.  It's the original switch and has held up for 13 years.   I'm for sure keeping the plastic tip as it has the Heritage dot that if I remember correctly signifies the HRW pickups.     I love this guitar.   

 

Anyway, the hole is 1/4" and this  shaft extends about 4/36" from the carved top.  You can see the pair if inside/outside washers and the knurled cap/top piece I have to work with.   Heritage went very basic on this instrument as there is no deep fitting nut or plastic treble/bass plastic.    What is a good robust replacement?   Just switchcraft or whatever is at tone pros?

 

 

3wayswitch2.PNG

Posted

I checked the old switch that I pulled when I did a new harness, and it was just a generic 3 way switch.   There's no manufacturer identification.   The threaded area was 11/32" deep.    It's a short one like yours.    I replaced mine with one from M.Laval, they appear to have exited the market.   Philadelphia Luthier supply has a short Switchcraft for $30, or a Japanese made for $10.   The Switchcraft specifies 11/32 threaded area.    The Japanese specs "almost 3/8" which would be 12/32.   I can't say that one is better than the other.  

There's not a lot that can go bad with these switches, other than getting a bit of dirty or oxidized, unless you start trying to bend the leaves.

Posted

Thanks for the info.  That was very helpful.  After you mentioned the leaves I got to looking at the part and I squeezed them together a a bit and the switch started working again ...for the time being.   I can at least play the guitar while I order the new switch if necessary.   There are many switches that look just like this one on Amazon for 10 dollars and the name brands go for around 30 bucks.

Jason

Posted

Sorry if I missed it but have you tried spraying the switch with contact cleaner?  That has worked for my friends and I many times. 

Posted
On 4/18/2022 at 7:33 PM, TalismanRich said:

I checked the old switch that I pulled when I did a new harness, and it was just a generic 3 way switch.   There's no manufacturer identification.   The threaded area was 11/32" deep.    It's a short one like yours.    I replaced mine with one from M.Laval, they appear to have exited the market.   Philadelphia Luthier supply has a short Switchcraft for $30, or a Japanese made for $10.   The Switchcraft specifies 11/32 threaded area.    The Japanese specs "almost 3/8" which would be 12/32.   I can't say that one is better than the other.  

There's not a lot that can go bad with these switches, other than getting a bit of dirty or oxidized, unless you start trying to bend the leaves.

Harness? For your Kentucky thorobread?

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