DC Ron Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2534.jpg[/img] Well, she's pretty stunning. Very insane flame, almost zero playing wear. Pulled the cover plate and it reads "H150" but the "CM" is implied, right? Never had Sperzels, they are silky. Hardware looks like a combination of chrome (pickups) and nickel (everything else) but maybe that's just age on the chrome. Straplocks are gold but the originals are in the case. Warranty is signed by Jay. Have a question for the group on the bridge/tailpiece setup... <http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2537.jpg[/img] Looks like the taipiece is cranked all the way down and the bridge is reversed. Haven't seen this before but maybe I don't get out enough. Imagine it's supposed to increase sustain. Any opinions? My instinct is to make things more normal, as the string angle look pretty severe. But maybe that's the point. I'll clean her up, change the strings, adjust the action and report back again soon. First impressions are great...
pro-fusion Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Personally, I'd probably restore the bridge to the 'normal' way. I have to say that you have an incredibly stunning guitar, there.
JeffB Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 I would lift the tail piece. The bass string looks as though its sitting on the back of the bridge. Great looking guitar.
brentrocks Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 I would lift the tail piece. The bass string looks as though its sitting on the back of the bridge.Great looking guitar. that is why i like the schaller hardware...you never have to worry about the strings touching the bridge
JohnCovach Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 That looks like the Nashville-style bridge, not the vintage ABR-1 style. On the Nashville, the adjustments screws are on the "south side" (pointing toward the tailpiece), while on the ABR-1 they are on the north (Kalamazoo) side (pointing toward the neck). So you might consider flipping that bridge around so the screws are on the tailpiece side. You likely won't have to worry much about whether the saddles have been reversed, since there's a lot of travel on those slots. My preference is for none of the strings to touch the bridge behind the saddles, so I raise the tailpiece until they are all just barely clear. Some people top-wrap the tailpiece to get this extra height and clearance. Many claim this improves the sound as well, but I think most of the difference has to do with the changed angle of the strings over the saddles.
DC Ron Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 Well, got her broken down. Verified the pickups are Schallers, as is the tailpiece. The bridge is marked "Gotoh Japan" and is definitely nickel. Have removed the gold straplocks. Headstock is not fiber, appears painted. The headstock logo is painted silver (not inlay) as well. Fingerboard inlays are incredibly tight, rosewood fingerboard is nicely figured. Couple of file marks on the fingerboard, may have been post factory. Definitely one of the nicer tops and overall quality is quite nice. Trying to get her back together, don't know if I will tonight... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2538.jpg[/img]
Thundersteel Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 The standard headstock logo is a decal. File marks are par for the course--nothing to worry about, IMHO. Overall, very, very nice!
High Flying Bird Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 The standard headstock logo is a decal. Yes, be careful with tape around it.
Dick Seacup Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Beautiful guitar. Is this your first H, DC Ron?
DC Ron Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 Nope, this is my 3rd Heritage but my first 150, and my first LP style guitar in about...15 years. So I'm learning. Not a bad guitar to re-learn on, though. Ok, she's back together, have restrung, tightened the truss rod (I like just a LITTLE relief) and tuned her up...very sweet. The figure also really pops out now with just Fender Mist & Wipe. Also, if you haven't found a Hercules stand, GET ONE. By far the most stable and useful stand I've found and worth the $40 to secure your investment. Anyway....have work in the AM or could play with this all night. More tomorrow.... http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2539.jpg[/img]
High Flying Bird Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 ...... tightened the truss rod (I like just a LITTLE relief) Also, if you haven't found a Hercules stand, GET ONE. Now I am cornfussed. I like to have a bit of relief as well but my local repair guy loosened the truss rod a bit to give me the relief. (The middle frets are lower than the upper and lower frets.) I do play with a high action. I have to second you on the Hercules stands. I have 3 mini stands by them and I love their compact size and the steady grip they have on my guitars.
yoslate Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Just a stunner, DC. The second one this month I would have had gone for, were I in the market! A beautiful instrument! Enjoy!! 8)
DC Ron Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 Now I am cornfussed. I like to have a bit of relief as well but my local repair guy loosened the truss rod a bit to give me the relief. (The middle frets are lower than the upper and lower frets.) I do play with a high action. I have to second you on the Hercules stands. I have 3 mini stands by them and I love their compact size and the steady grip they have on my guitars. Should have explained that there was too much relief for me until I tightened the truss rod. Don't have the mini stand but will definitely try one out based on my experience with the big one. Thx!
tulk1 Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Just make sure your stands are Nitro compatible. The only Hercules stand I have is a 3-banger. Not sure if that ones is Nitro-safe or not. But figure it's always worth mentioning the nitro issue, even if you already know about it.
Kuz Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Just make sure your stands are Nitro compatible. The only Hercules stand I have is a 3-banger. Not sure if that ones is Nitro-safe or not. But figure it's always worth mentioning the nitro issue, even if you already know about it. Hercules are Nitro safe. I have a 3 and a 2 banger. Great stands very secure!
Paul P Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Ok, she's back together, have restrung, tightened the truss rod (I like just a LITTLE relief) and tuned her up...very sweet. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2539.jpg[/img] Strange bridge setup you had there. When you turned the bridge around, did you reverse the saddles ? I've found that it's not an easy matter to do on account of the springs in a T-O-M bridge unless there's some trick I haven't yet figured out. If the saddle notches were not in the center of each saddle you should also reorder them properly so the strings line up properly with the pickups and neck. You said that the bridge was Gotoh and the tailpiece was Schaller ? I would have thought that it would be the other way around. My tailpiece was a Gotoh and the bridge was a noname but now a Schaller. I agree with the others that you should lift the tailpiece until the strings no longer rest on the rear side of the bridge, which should also prevent the strings from touching the perimeter of the hole in the tailpiece, both possible sources of buzzing. With the tailpiece raised you might want to consider spacers to tighten things up as were discussed in this thread : http://www.heritageownersclub.com/forums/i...pic,2229.0.html Really nice guitar you have there.
Spectrum13 Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 DC... what year is your R.Rocket? I have one from '63 but it's all beat up, they are great amps.
DC Ron Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 Strange bridge setup you had there. When you turned the bridge around, did you reverse the saddles ?I've found that it's not an easy matter to do on account of the springs in a T-O-M bridge unless there's some trick I haven't yet figured out. If the saddle notches were not in the center of each saddle you should also reorder them properly so the strings line up properly with the pickups and neck. You said that the bridge was Gotoh and the tailpiece was Schaller ? I would have thought that it would be the other way around. My tailpiece was a Gotoh and the bridge was a noname but now a Schaller. I agree with the others that you should lift the tailpiece until the strings no longer rest on the rear side of the bridge, which should also prevent the strings from touching the perimeter of the hole in the tailpiece, both possible sources of buzzing. With the tailpiece raised you might want to consider spacers to tighten things up as were discussed in this thread : http://www.heritageownersclub.com/forums/i...pic,2229.0.html Really nice guitar you have there. Yikes, just flipped the tailpiece around without thinking before stringing it up. Doesn't work too well because the saddles are notched per string diameter. Oh well. Yep, I've got the Schaller vs Gottoh reported right although I'm guessing might be aftermarket. Will check out the tip on spacers...THANKS!
DC Ron Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 DC... what year is your R.Rocket? I have one from '63 but it's all beat up, they are great amps. Reverberocket II is a '69, all original including tubes. Got it from Jay at a show in about '91. Doesn't overdrive with ease but has lots of headroom (for me) and the world's lushest reverb.
Paul P Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 Yikes, just flipped the tailpiece around without thinking before stringing it up. Doesn't work too well because the saddles are notched per string diameter. Oh well. Yep, I've got the Schaller vs Gottoh reported right although I'm guessing might be aftermarket. Will check out the tip on spacers...THANKS! I may have misunderstood but I think you are using the terms 'tailpiece' and 'bridge' reversed, which is adding some confusion to this discussion The tailpiece is the thing the strings are threaded through and anchors them and the bridge is what holds the saddles. In which case your tailpiece would indeed be a Gotoh and your bridge a Schaller. You're right about the notches in the saddles being cut for string diameter, didn't think of that. Looks like JC may have a point when he says : "That looks like the Nashville-style bridge, not the vintage ABR-1 style" in which case there'd be no reason to turn it around. Does Schaller make a Nashville bridge ?
DC Ron Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 I may have misunderstood but I think you are using the terms 'tailpiece' and 'bridge' reversed, which is adding some confusion to this discussion The tailpiece is the thing the strings are threaded through and anchors them and the bridge is what holds the saddles. In which case your tailpiece would indeed be a Gotoh and your bridge a Schaller. You're right about the notches in the saddles being cut for string diameter, didn't think of that. Looks like JC may have a point when he says : "That looks like the Nashville-style bridge, not the vintage ABR-1 style" in which case there'd be no reason to turn it around. Does Schaller make a Nashville bridge ? Wouldn't be the first time I've been confused, but...think I had it right the first time. The "tailpiece" is the stopbar that the string terminate in. It is marked "Made in Germany" on the bottom so I assumed Schaller. The "bridge" is the piece with adjustable saddles and is marked "Gotoh Japan" on the bottom. I'd show pictures but I have things back together again for the second time in two days so I'm just going to play her for a while! 8) Think you are correct that the bridge was installed correctly when I first got it, which is how it's installed now. Will look at upgrade options shortly as well, so the education will continue. Appreciate the assist!
DC Ron Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 Need to let my fingers heal, bending hasn't been this much fun in a while. Here one with big sister. They're both "ALM SB" and look similar in the photo, but the 150 is more gold-to-brown and the eagle is more cherry-to-peach in normal light. http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/DCRon/IMG_2547.jpg[/img]
skydog Posted March 22, 2009 Posted March 22, 2009 I'm not sure about the implied CM (curly maple). With that serious of a flame, is it still CM?
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