backline Posted May 5, 2009 Posted May 5, 2009 Personally I'm from the less is more side of the universe. I don't want rub/wipe my guitars any more than necessary for fear of scrathcing and just plain rubbing through the finish. I gently wipe them down with a soft cloth after use. If I see smudge, my first choice is just a little spit or water. If that doesn't do it, then I move up to the cleaners/polishes. As far as polishes are concerned, I don't want to keep adding stuff to my guitars fiish and build up a layer of gunk on top of the finish. Again, less is more in my book and I only use polishes when the guitar really needs it - which is very rare imho... I agree here. I was told by a competent luthier that a clean slightly dampened cloth would take care of 99% of a lacquer's needs. My skin is oily. The only time I've added anything to a fretboard besides my own schmutz was on a dry lookin' piece of rosewood. I used some Tres Amigos Lemon oil, but maybe linseed oil would have been better. I'm not against using some FingerEase (as I already posted earlier in this thread) when a lacquer neck gets that grungy feel, and it can be useful to guard against hazing the upper bout, but I don't especially like the feel even then.
peterbright Posted May 5, 2009 Posted May 5, 2009 I agree here.I was told by a competent luthier that a clean slightly dampened cloth would take care of 99% of a lacquer's needs. My skin is oily. The only time I've added anything to a fretboard besides my own schmutz was on a dry lookin' piece of rosewood. I used some Tres Amigos Lemon oil, but maybe linseed oil would have been better. I'm not against using some FingerEase (as I already posted earlier in this thread) when a lacquer neck gets that grungy feel, and it can be useful to guard against hazing the upper bout, but I don't especially like the feel even then. Wipe off with a slightly damp microfiber cloth. With unfinished fretboards like rosewood, a very little lemon oil when changing strings or when the board looks dry. I have some simichrome polishing paste should a pickup cover or other piece of hardware need cleaning. Defiantely feel less is better.
t0aj15 Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 I use Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment for the fretboard (during string changes), and as for guitar polish the best I've found is Smith Pro Formula Polish. I also use only micro-fiber car polishing cloths to keep from scratching up the finish.
Thundersteel Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 Don"t look at my guitars, Spoken like a true Nigel Tufnel fan!
smurph1 Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 My 140 is starting to look kind of dull..But it's pretty old, so Oh Well.. I use old English on the Fretboard..Works great! Keeps it dark and looking pretty..Just like the way it sounds!!
RJLII Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 I just wipe after playing with a clean cloth, either cotton or microfiber. I give it the full monty when changing strings though. I use a high end furniture cleaner/polish that does not contain wax. Spray on, wipe off. The fingerboard gets a coating of lemon or fingerboard specific oil then gets buffed with a cotton cloth until the frets shine. If the frets are particularly nasty I use a pink pearl eraser on them first to knock off any tarnish. Tuning machines and tailpieces (if so equipped) get hit with metal cleaner/polish if necessary. I restrung and cleaned my H-550 last night for the first time in at least a couple years. She's been cased up most of the time and "out of sight, out of mind". I was shocked at how grungy she was when I pulled her out to play . All sparkly and clean this morning though, with a fresh set of .011s and a much clearer voice .
GuitArtMan Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 I just wipe after playing with a clean cloth, either cotton or microfiber. I give it the full monty when changing strings though. I use a high end furniture cleaner/polish that does not contain wax. Spray on, wipe off. The fingerboard gets a coating of lemon or fingerboard specific oil then gets buffed with a cotton cloth until the frets shine. If the frets are particularly nasty I use a pink pearl eraser on them first to knock off any tarnish. Tuning machines and tailpieces (if so equipped) get hit with metal cleaner/polish if necessary. It's not wax you have to worry about in polishes; it's silcon. The stuff doesn't hurt the finish, just makes future repairs nearly impossible as nothing sticks to it. Avoid silicon like the plague.
RJLII Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 It's not wax you have to worry about in polishes; it's silcon. The stuff doesn't hurt the finish, just makes future repairs nearly impossible as nothing sticks to it. Avoid silicon like the plague. Agreed. I should have been clearer. It's a no wax/no silicone product. The "cleaner" aspect really makes a difference versus Lemon Pledge and the like. If I'm going to apply wax, I use Briwax. It's a museum grade paste wax for fine furniture, antiques, etc. The stuff makes most paste waxes look bad by comparison. It's expensive and a little work, but a little dab will do ya, and what a shine!
Dick Seacup Posted May 9, 2009 Posted May 9, 2009 Avoid silicon like the plague. No, no, no! My wife works for an industry leading silicon/silicone supplier/manufacturer. BUY MORE SILICONE PRODUCTS! I need the money for more guitars.
pro-fusion Posted May 9, 2009 Posted May 9, 2009 I just cleaned up my 157 last weekend with Dunlop guitar polish, #0000 steel wool for the fretboard/frets, and Gerlitz Guitar Honey for cleaning/oiling the fretboard. She looks almost brand new again, and I've pretty much fallen in love all over again...
ButteredBiskit Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 It really all depends on the condition of the finish and the type of finish. You shouldn't use a polish on a new guitar with no scratches because every time you use it, the polish removes a small layer of finish. This goes for wax also. My recommendations is a soft damp diaper or similar cloth (not wet!!!) and wipe the body changing sides of the rag often. Maybe even rinsing if heavily soiled...shame on you. Next, LIGHTY dry with a clean diaper. For most guitars, this is sufficient. Now that you have the instrument clean and dry, it may have some scratches or hazy spots of wear. This is the time to think of using some buffing compound. Here's my rule of thumb: If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it's probably too deep to repair by buffing, polishing, waxing, ect. The thing with buffing is to start with the finest compound possible to remove the imperfection but not using too aggressive of a compound that will unnecessarily take too much off the finish film. You have to use two or more grades of compound (progressively finer) to properly buff finishes. Always go with the scratch when rubbing. Mr. Meogi's wax on wax off method is a good way to put swirl marks in a finish. As for waxing...Worthless in my opinion. It slowly wears away at you finish similar to polishes and compounds, and if leaves a "desirable" residue on the finish. If a finish is new and not cured long enough to release all the solvents from finish film, you could have delamination problems (finish lifting) if you seal in the solvents in with wax. Also, if heaven forbid you do need to repair a finish wax build up could prohibit finish to adhere well thus biting you in the ass again. Not to mention the build up. Not a good idea. The moral of the story is if it ain't broke don't fix it. And every time to polish, compound, wax, seal, and/or ect. a finish, you're rubbing off a little layer at a time. Only polish as needed. Hope this helps.
FrankV Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 Am I nuts? I just use some lemon Pledge, spray it lightly on a rag (old T-shirt) and give it a gentle wipe down. I figured it had silicon in it, because it makes the fretboard nice and slippery. I always figured the 'special' guitar cleaners were just regular polishes, packaged smaller with the price jacked up. Like I've heard all shampoos are pretty much exactly the same thing except for fragrance and coloring and packaging and price. Maybe I'm wrong on this though.
smurph1 Posted April 2, 2010 Posted April 2, 2010 I just use spit & polish! Or is it sh!t & shine-ola? What he said..I like the long sleeve idea..May try that at the next gig..Most bar owners in West Virginia don't believe in A/C However..
Jazzerous Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 For the first time in my life, I own two amazing looking guitars. I never used to worry about the vanity aspect of upkeep but these babies are worth it! So what's your ritual for keeping your Heritage finishes lookin' fine? Anything special I need to know? Secret polishing spray? Magic cloth? I was told by a certified Martin luthier to use Novus #1 Plastic clean and shine that eliminates static and repels dust from www.novuspolish.com . Small container will last for years !!They also have microfiber cloths in the bulk large sizes to cut down for guitars and even sunglasses. This is a very efficient and cost effective way to battle the elements we juggle. I also use Maguires carnuba wax on my guitars. Make sure you get the all carnuba wax if it protects autos it will protect your fine guitars. Other brands have other chemicals that might not be good on your guitar . Mileage may vary!!
barrymclark Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 Well, I pretty much give it the Dunlop cleaning treatment at every string change and I change strings maybe twice a year. Yes, really. Even with as much as I play I tend to leave the strings on there until I need a booster shot to continue playing on them. So... my guitars end up with a nice slather of finger funk until then. You oughta see the upright! Looks like I have been hucking hot wings at it with all the funk.
GuitArtMan Posted April 3, 2010 Posted April 3, 2010 Am I nuts? I just use some lemon Pledge, spray it lightly on a rag (old T-shirt) and give it a gentle wipe down. I figured it had silicon in it, because it makes the fretboard nice and slippery. I always figured the 'special' guitar cleaners were just regular polishes, packaged smaller with the price jacked up. Like I've heard all shampoos are pretty much exactly the same thing except for fragrance and coloring and packaging and price. Maybe I'm wrong on this though. Most common furniture polished have silicon in them. They don't damage the finish. What the do is make future repairs nearly impossible as nothing sticks to it; not lacquer, not glue, not nuttin'! So if you ever need any touch up work done it may be nearly impossible. I heard of one luthier who asks his customers if they used any silicon products on their guitars. If they say "yes", he wont let them in the shop!
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