Coping with thumb wheel posts during string changes.

[DCA]

On my cheap (slot head screw post) tune-o-matic guitars string changes have been a great opportunity to clear out the detritus that accumulates under and between their bridges and tailpieces. Lift the bridge, pull the tail piece, clean--hell, scrub!-- to your heart’s content and replace the parts, done.

 

With my 535’s thumb wheels, the cleaning bit has become a game of Operation. My thumb wheels move at the slightest provocation and no matter how careful my cleaning, a string change always results in resetting the bridge height and readjusting the saddles a hair. In other words, an intonation job. Is this normal?

 

Are there any tricks for locking down a thumb wheel bridge during string changes? If I breathe on them the wrong way, my intonation is shot. I’ve given some thought to pulling the post screws and waxing them with bee’s wax. But before I do anything as drastic as that, I thought I might ask here first.

 

A final question: When I first bought my 535 many of its features struck me as being quirky or just plain stupid. Over the decade that I've owned the guitar I've had many "Ah hah!" moments with those quirky and stupid features. I've yet to have that moment with the thumb wheels. They're there for a pupose, but to me they seem like a real pain in the tail pipe. What am I missing? What is the benefit of thumb wheels?

 

Regarding the bridge: It's certainly not an ABR, it's a big chunky Nashville with rolling saddles. A Schaller, maybe?

[big bob]

clear fingernail polish.. like glue that you can remove (or just break )by turning

[Steiner]

clear fingernail polish.. like glue that you can remove (or just break )by turning

 

Thank you Mr. Wizard! Another excellent solution from the Sunshine State.

[TalismanRich]

clear fingernail polish.. like glue that you can remove (or just break )by turning

 

Now WHY didn't I think of that last week, when I was changing strings and cleaning things up, only to end up with a buzzing high E string. Once I got it set up again, I was going to mark the wheel with a sharpie so I could get it back to the original spot.

 

Great idea BB!

[DCA]

D'oh!!!!!!!

 

I know that trick and use it all the time.

 

Damn, damn, damn! I'm stupid!

 

I was looking for a guitar trick when I shoulda been looking for a common sense solution.

 

Thanks for plucking the answer off the tip of my nose!

 

If you'll kindly excuse me, I've got a posterior that requires kicking to attend to.

[DCA]

And for the record, that's questions that have puzzled DCA for years, 0. Simple answers provided by the HOC, 4.

 

Game, set, and match to HOC. As of now, I know exactly everything I need to know about the care and feeding of guitars.

 

HOC is a pretty good forum.

[yoslate]

And for the record, that's questions that have puzzled DCA for years, 0. Simple answers provided by the HOC, 4.

 

Game, set, and match to HOC. As of now, I know exactly everything I need to know about the care and feeding of guitars.

 

HOC is a pretty good forum.

 

 

+1

[GuitArtMan]

Change one string at a time. Honestly, I only remove all the strings maybe once a year at most if I'm going to do a deep clean. Otherwise I only remove one string at a time.

[paul144]

Here's a few tips.

 

Since they've moved already, and you have to set them again, remove the thumb screws and wrap some teflon tape around the threads of the screw a few times. Now they will sit snugly in the bushings and not turn so easily if you hit them the next time. Also, compressing a piece of foam and sticking it under the thumbwheel will keep it in place when it expands.

 

Otherwise I agree with changing one string at a time, just use a moist Q-tip to get under the bridge. Remove some of the cotton if its too thick to fit.

 

Usually I'll check the intonation each time I re string, strings can vary and chances are they'll be off a little.

[DCA]

Nice post.

 

I really like the Teflon tape idea. Again, tip of the nose. Makes a lot more sense than bees wax.

 

I'm afraid I'm much too neurotic to do the one string at a time technique--when the strings come off, the entire guitar *must* be cleaned. No it doesn't need it, no it makes no sense, but that's the way it is. It's my guitar and I'm the one calling the deranged shots.

 

As always, I sure appreciate your help. Thank you.

[Kuz]

I tape the thumb wheels down with electrician tape. remove strings, clean guitar, restring, remove tape, and then ROCK.

 

I also agree that the intonation (with any guitar needs to be checked with every restring).

 

Finally, I have to ask, what in all that is good & precious in the world, is STUPID about ANYTHING on a 535???????

[DCA]

Finally, I have to ask, what in all that is good & precious in the world, is STUPID about ANYTHING on a 535???????

 

LMAO!

 

A 535 is a very complicated guitar, especially if it's your first serious guitar.

[zydecosoultrain]

On the same theme changing strings on a 575 is a pain. I tape the floating bridge to the soundboard so I can remove all the strings to clean the frets and oil the fretboard. The bridge always seems top move a bit and the intonation gets loose. Any tips on keeping the bridge in place while string changing would be appreciated?

[Kuz]

On the same theme changing strings on a 575 is a pain. I tape the floating bridge to the soundboard so I can remove all the strings to clean the frets and oil the fretboard. The bridge always seems top move a bit and the intonation gets loose. Any tips on keeping the bridge in place while string changing would be appreciated?

 

I know that some people have used double sided tape to kind of anchor it down. I just use double caution.

[zydecosoultrain]

I remember reading somewhere about putting locator posts on a hollowbody so the bridge does not move. It's not something I'm keen to do to my precious Heritage though.

[DCA]

I tried the Teflon tape technique tonight and was suprised to find that only two, properly tightened, wraps were necessary. On my first attempt I wrapped the posts as I would a pipe, but that resulted in a frozen, not a stiff, a frozen post--a reminder of how close the tollerances on Schaller hardware is. They're amazing hardware.

 

As a I had to do a full intonation, I've clearly ripped the seated teflon at least three times so I'm eager to see how it holds together on the string change that really matters, the next one.

 

So far, so good! Thanks for the great suggestion Paul!