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H535 questions...


redshark

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I have a couple questions to the H535 owners.....

 

1. What is the diference between H535 and H535 classic?

2. If you own a H535 with Seth Lovers and switched to Lollar Imperials or viceversa I would like to know what is the sonic results, meaning what changed in the sound from one to the other...

 

Thanks for your answers guys!! Love my new H535 :D

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I have a couple questions to the H535 owners.....

 

1. What is the diference between H535 and H535 classic?

2. If you own a H535 with Seth Lovers and switched to Lollar Imperials or viceversa I would like to know what is the sonic results, meaning what changed in the sound from one to the other...

Thanks for your answers guys!! Love my new H535 :D

 

Very very similar in tone. Tiny more output in Lollars. Tiny bit more low end with the Lollars. Honestly, hind site being what it is, it wasn't worth the cost of the pics and the cost of installation between the two. Sightly more of a rounded sound with the Lollars, but basically they sound VERY similar.

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1. What is the diference between H535 and H535 classic?

 

The classic has Duncan 59s' rather than Schallers.

 

>>>>>>>>>> <<<<<<<<<<

 

H-535 Classic Specs:

 

Neck - 17 degree peghead pitch; one-piece mahogany neck.

 

Fingerboard - 24 3/4” scale rosewood cream bound fingerboard with 22 frets; mother of pearl dot positions markers.

 

Body - Double cutaway semi-hollow body with laminated arch curly maple top and back; single bound wood pickguard; solid curly maple rim; with f-holes;

 

body size:

rim thickness - 1 1/2”

body width - 16”

body length - 17 7/8”

 

Electronics - Two chrome Seymour Duncan pickups; two volume controls; two tone controls; selector switch.

 

Hardware - Individual nickel plated machine heads; chrome plated stop bar tailpiece and adjustable bridge.

 

>>>>>>>>>> <<<<<<<<<<

 

H-535 Specs:

 

Neck - 17 degree peghead pitch; one-piece mahogany neck.

 

Fingerboard - 24 3/4” scale rosewood cream bound fingerboard with 22 frets; mother of pearl dot positions markers.

 

Body - Double cutaway semi-hollow body with laminated arch curly maple top and back; single bound wood pickguard; solid curly maple rim; with f-holes;

 

body size:

rim thickness - 1 1/2”

body width - 16”

body length - 17 7/8”

 

Electronics - Two chrome humbucking pickups; two volume controls; two tone controls; selector switch.

 

Hardware - Individual nickel plated machine heads; chrome plated stop bar tailpiece and adjustable bridge.

 

>>>>>>> <<<<<<<

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the schallers are like most pickups: some love them, others hate them. I for one haven't found any major issues with them. They have a nice sound, and have more of that airy/glassy sound that I like to them. I have guitars with all kinds of pickups, and they all have their strengths and shortcomings.

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Ok so since mine is a 2004 and came with Seth Lovers should I assume is a classic?

I would like to know the experience of more people between Lollars and Lovers.

I think that upgrading the pots to all 500k and having better caps I can make the Lovers sound even better...

I can see that the caps that are in there are some sort of cheap polyester cap so I think good used black beauties or bumblebees can help.

I like also 50's wiring when using the volume control so the sound don't lose a lot of treble. Maybe I'm just too picky.

I would like to know since heritage produce a great instrument why do they try to cut corners with the electronic components? I mean this guitar is awesome but I feel the sound could be better with a couple of improvements.

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I love the schallers in a solid body, real heavy, in a semi/hollow squeal/thin sound (not so good clean)

I had them in my 575, swapped them out for duncan p-rails, am super happy now>>>

Lance,

 

Not getting the same from the Schallers in my 535 and Prospect. I find them to be very articulate, produce the wooden/airiness of the semi, overdrive very well, and sound rather decent clean. Now I will say, the Prospect body really likes to resonate. And I have noticed getting into the non-playing feedback rather easily. Is that what you might be referring to when you say " in a semi/hollow squeal/thin sound " ? I don't have a full hollow, so can't speak to that. But I rather like them in the semi's I have them in. Not to say I wouldn't swap them out if I had something else, just to try something else, tho'. That's the fun of having SO many choices, isn't it? :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(uh, 2997 I think)

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I can't speak for 2004, but currently Heritage uses 500K in all pots. I wouldn't consider Seth Lovers as cheap either. Maybe I'm a little confused with what is cheap about the electronics. You can always custom order a guitar to any electronic specs (pickups, pots, caps) that you want. But if you bought used and got those components and they aren't satisfactory to you, then I guess it is on you to upgrade.

 

All my Heritage were purchased new, with the exception of my latest trade. 2005 Quilt 150, I upgrade the Seth Lovers to Throbaks, but was really amazed at how good the Seths sounded.

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I think the electronics CAN be upgraded and I have on one guitar and appreciated the different. Ask CJ Topes, he now owns that guitar and it opened it up a bit over standard wiring. There was a bad pot on that guitar when I put the seth lovers in and just said rip it all out and do it up. .For my money, don't think I would invest in the premium 50s wiring harness unless something fried. Then I would spend the money. The guitars sound VERY good the way they are. I wouldn't say they use "cheap" electronics. I would say you can buy better but very few companies put those into their production guitars which is what these are. The pots, caps and wiring in my opinion is better than average.

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I think the electronics CAN be upgraded and I have on one guitar and appreciated the different. Ask CJ Topes, he now owns that guitar and it opened it up a bit over standard wiring. There was a bad pot on that guitar when I put the seth lovers in and just said rip it all out and do it up. .For my money, don't think I would invest in the premium 50s wiring harness unless something fried. Then I would spend the money. The guitars sound VERY good the way they are. I wouldn't say they use "cheap" electronics. I would say you can buy better but very few companies put those into their production guitars which is what these are. The pots, caps and wiring in my opinion is better than average.

 

+1 well said Mike.

 

Everyone wants the Rolls Royce parts, and then they would b!tch about why the Heritage prices went up $300-500. If you need the bone nut, 50s wiring harness, boutique pups & caps & pots, then order new and get credit from the standard issued electronics.

 

If you buy used, you have the option to upgrade these components yourself.

 

Seems easy to me.

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When I said cheap electronics I didn't include the pickups there.

I meant pots, caps, jacks and switch.

It has nothing to do with used or new. I just think that after doing a perfect job on selecting woods, building a high quality instrument it doesn't make any sense to me not to use top of the line parts to complete the job to perfection and correct specs with pots and caps.

Once again pickups are not included here. I consider Seth Lovers to be a high quality pickup, I just would like to know results with other options.

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+1 well said Mike.

 

Everyone wants the Rolls Royce parts, and then they would b!tch about why the Heritage prices went up $300-500. If you need the bone nut, 50s wiring harness, boutique pups & caps & pots, then order new and get credit from the standard issued electronics.

 

If you buy used, you have the option to upgrade these components yourself.

 

Seems easy to me.

 

Well said.

 

The primary reason for my Heritage purchase was the price. Having played the instrument for ten years, I have no inclination to upgrade the electronics to get that last "tenth of a tenth." My playing style and tone have changed dramatically over the past decade, but I've found that altering my playing style compensates for any hardware changes I might be tempted to make.

 

The real trick to playing a 535 is learning how to use your tone and volume pots on the fly. I don't mean that as an insult, far from it. Those pots are miles away and bit tricky to access when time matters, but with some practice you can do wonders with the stock electronics.

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