Anybody ever compared different bridges and tailpieces?

[jacques]

I don't really know what the bridges and tailpieces on my 2004 H 535 Classic and my 2005 H 150 Classic actually are. I hear things like 'Nashville' bridge and the like. Did anybody A/B'd the factory Heritage stuff with other hardware, like aluminum tailpieces, tonepros bridges, Gotoh and the like? And was there any significant difference and is it worth experimenting at all?

[Dick Seacup]

I was prepared to dislike the monster Schaller tailpiece and roller bridge on mine, but it turns out they're actually pretty cool.  So, my plan to throw on replacements has been canceled.  Glad you asked the question, though, as I'd be interested in hearing how some of the aftermarket pieces compare.

[wingnut1]

If you go to the Les Paul Forum there has been a lot of discussion on this.  I think most people like the ABR1 bridge for vintage sound.

[jacques]

Thanks so far.

Anybody else?

[GuitArtMan]

I'm one that doesn't like the Shcaller roller bridge/tailepiece.  It's big, bulky and franky fugly imo.  Also, I was always screwing up the strng spacing when I changed strings as well.  If you order a tune-o-matic and stop taile piece you'll end up getting Schallers versions of these, which is just fine by me.  The TonePros stuff is nice, but mine ended up being modified Schaller so it's not a whole lot different that what comes standard.  One of my 535s has TonePros, the other has the facotry tune-o-matic and stop tail piece.  I think both are just fine.

[golferwave]

  I like the schaller roller bridge and the nashville bridge but I've removed all of the schaller tailpieces from my Heritages that came with them and replaced them with the regular Gibson style stop tailpiece. The string removal and replacement is actually easier with the schaller tailpiece but the plastic string end holders will swing down and scratch the guitars finish if it's set too low so I've done away with them.

[Thundersteel]

My H150 had the TonePros bridge and tailpiece. The only real benefit I saw was when I changed strings, the tailpiece didn't fall off. As for better sound, well, that is debatable.

 

I've never used the Schaller pieces; they look intriguing, though.

[jacques]

Ah...that sounds like a lot of good advice.

Thanks everyone!

[High Flying Bird]

You need to post a picture of the bridge.  I can assure you that you do not have a Nashville bridge on that guitar.  Those things are junk!  My bud has one of those on an old SG and we are talking about upgrading it.  I am afraid we will have to get somebody to machine the parts to join everything up. 

 

I called Heritage last year and told them that another friend lost the roller on his bridge and they sent me a scrap bridge with most of the parts intact.  I couldn't have asked for more from them.  This was a Schaller bridge.  I love them! 

[GuitArtMan]

You need to post a picture of the bridge.  I can assure you that you do not have a Nashville bridge on that guitar.  Those things are junk!  My bud has one of those on an old SG and we are talking about upgrading it.  I am afraid we will have to get somebody to machine the parts to join everything up. 

 

I called Heritage last year and told them that another friend lost the roller on his bridge and they sent me a scrap bridge with most of the parts intact.  I couldn't have asked for more from them.  This was a Schaller bridge.  I love them! 

I can assure you Heritage does ship guitars with Schaller's version of the Nashville bridge.  I know becuase I've owned four of them that came from the factory with a Nashville style bridge, much like these:

[High Flying Bird]

OK, my bad.  I have never heard of those bridges called Nashville Bridges.  These guys have them.  http://www.allparts.com/store/guitar-bridg...010,Product.asp 

 

I was talking about the bridge on this SG.  It is junk. 

http://www.ronwarren.com/heritage/img_2310_std.jpg[/img]

[wingnut1]

I can assure you Heritage does ship guitars with Schaller's version of the Nashville bridge.  I know becuase I've owned four of them that came from the factory with a Nashville style bridge, much like these:

 

I've always heard those bridges called ABR-1 bridges.

[Dick Seacup]

What is the difference between a Nashville and an ABR-1?  I thought the Nashville was thinner or had some other dimensional difference but was essentially the same idea.  ???

[GuitArtMan]

I've always heard those bridges called ABR-1 bridges.

ABR-1 bridge:

The posts mount directly into the body of the guitar, rather than having bushings like on the Nashville bridge.

The bridge is somewhat narrower with less saddle travel than the Naashville bridge.

Has the silly retaining wire that is always getting lost and/or ratteling.

The original G word tune-o-matic bridge which the snobs will say sounds different (better) than the Nashville bridge.

[GuitArtMan]

OK, my bad.  I have never heard of those bridges called Nashville Bridges.  These guys have them.  http://www.allparts.com/store/guitar-bridg...010,Product.asp 

 

I was talking about the bridge on this SG.  It is junk. 

http://www.ronwarren.com/heritage/img_2310_std.jpg[/img]

That's not the Nashville bridge.  I forget what they called those and I'm going nuts trying to find it on google.  Just do a google on Nashville bridge and you'll see what pops up.  It's definitely what Heritage uses (or a variation on it) when you don't get the roller bridge.

[Vinni]

I installed the Tonepros System II on my CM150.

The results were bad. The only advantage is the bridge/tailpiece doesn't change during changing strings.

The sustain diminished......

 

So I put the original grover bridge/tailpiece back on.

 

Vinni

[bluesaxe]

I installed the Tonepros System II on my CM150.

The results were bad. The only advantage is the bridge/tailpiece doesn't change during changing strings.

The sustain diminished......

 

So I put the original grover bridge/tailpiece back on.

 

Vinni

 

Some good info - looks like I can save myself $100 by sticking with the OEM stuff.

 

Thanks!

[GuitArtMan]

I installed the Tonepros System II on my CM150.

The results were bad. The only advantage is the bridge/tailpiece doesn't change during changing strings.

The sustain diminished......

 

So I put the original grover bridge/tailpiece back on.

 

Vinni

Wierd.  This is the first time I've heard someone who didn't like TonePros - unless it's the snobs over at the Les Paul forum who think the $200 Pigtail is the sheezit!

 

PS  Are you sure the bridge is a Grover?  All of mine say "Made in Germany" on the bottom and look just like the Schaller replacement bridges I've seen.

[jacques]

Cleaning my 2005 H 150 showed the brand GOTOH (Made in Japan) on both the bridge and the tailpiece. They are of the Nashville type, with bushings in the body. I wonder what my stuff on the 2004 H535 will be.

[bluesaxe]

Speaking of cleaning bridges..

 

I recently pulled the schaller roller bridge off of my recently acquired H150 and all the rollers where stuck and didn't turn.  I freed up most of them with WD-40, but I couldn't get the low E unstuck.

 

Anyone have any ideas?  Is there a recommended lube to keep the rollers from sticking?

 

Thanks!

[Gitfiddler]

Speaking of cleaning bridges..

 

I recently pulled the schaller roller bridge off of my recently acquired H150 and all the rollers where stuck and didn't turn.  I freed up most of them with WD-40, but I couldn't get the low E unstuck.

 

Anyone have any ideas?  Is there a recommended lube to keep the rollers from sticking?

 

Thanks!

 

Try a small amount of 'Goo Off' or 'Nut Sauce' or 'GHS Graphit It All' on that pesky E roller. 

Wipe whatever residue off so it does not come in contact with the wood finish and you should be good to go with one of those products. 

[bluesaxe]

Thanks - I was thinking of trying some nut sauce on it!

[drewzee87t]

I have had nothing but problems with the schaller setup on my millenium 2k. I contacted heritage and they will drop a stop and tune-a-matic on it for 75 bucks. I can't get the guitar setup right using the rollers, and I took it to a tech for setup and they said the roller bridge wasn't the same circumference as the neck/fret curve, and since it's rollers they can't file it. They recommended getting rid of the system and putting a tuna on it. I have some binding that's starting to crack up and separate on the guitar so I think I am sending it in for the swap and see if they can take care of the binding and some IMHO low quality fretboard finishing. Is this something I could do myself, and should I bother? I think heritage is just charging me parts pretty much. This guitar has been a pain - I already had to replace the output jack, the neck pickup ring has broken and the neck pickup bounces around, and I have never been able to get this thing setup to my satisfaction. Plus changin strings is a total pita. Beautiful guitar that doesn't get played much.

 

Suggestions?

[wingnut1]

Wow, I've never had that many problems with a guitar new or used.  I would send it in and have them replace the parts and set it up.  I would also see if they would take care of the other issues under warranty as well.

[Guest maj13th]

I CHANGED OUT MY ROLLAR BRIDGE ON MY OLD 140 WITH TUNE A MATIC TITANIUM FROM KTS WHOLE SETUP COST ME $92.00, WHAT A DIFFERENCE. REALLY HAVE TO BE CAREFULL WHAT YOU PLAY, VERY DESERNING, WITH A TOUCH OF TREBLE , CAN BE TAKEN OFF WITH THE AMP. OVERALL FANTASTIC!