hiro Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 My H150 is my first electric . . . I know acoustics (and probably semi hollow / hollow body) do require proper humidity. Do solid body electricals need this also? If you do what methods used to control humidity? For my classical I just got a plastic paper clip and an orange prescription pill bottle (it has tabs you can string a paper clip through), drilled holes on the top, stuffed it 3/4's with paper towel or cotton balls, soak them (so its damp not dripping wet) and hang it from the 6th string inside the sound hole. Doesn't get too humid where I live . . . Another question I got is can anyone shed some light over Gibson originally stringing over the top of the tailpiece (vs going through)? Also does it affect tone? I got the factory set up where it is string so they pass through the tailpiece. This video shows it: here are the whole set
TalismanRich Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 My H150 is my first electric . . . I know acoustics (and probably semi hollow / hollow body) do require proper humidity. Do solid body electricals need this also? If you do what methods used to control humidity? Humidity will affect a solid or semi, although not quite as fast. Mostly you'll find the fret tangs sticking out of the fingerboard when it gets too dry. I also found that my Peavey bass tends to move a lot with the seasons. Yesterday I had to give the truss rod a tweak to keep the strings from buzzing. In my Taylor, I keep one of the Martin rubber tube humidifiers in the case. Plus, I run a humidifier all winter. Normally, my house runs about 38-40% humidity in the winter. Yesterday, it ran out of water and I noticed it was at 27% around midnight. So before bed, I had to throw another bucket of water in. It should be back to normal. I can always tell when it gets too dry. My sinus get really messed up!
squawken Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 I think a constant humidity is of main concern. try to avoid big jumps and drops. I try to keep the basement at around 45-50% in the winter with a humidifier, and the same with a DE-humidifier in the summer.
t0aj15 Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 IMO solid bodied guitars should be treated the same as hollow bodied guitars. This is what C.F. Martin guitars says for correct temp/hum: "Martin keeps the factory at a constant 45-55 percent humidity and 72-77 degrees Fahrenheit. If either humidity or temperature get far away from these factory conditions, your guitar is in danger."
tbonesullivan Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 stringing over the tailpiece is bunk. There's no benefit to doing it. It was necessary back in the day of the 1 piece solid bridges, but since the TOM was invented there's no purpose to it whatsoever. as for humidity, electric guitars like being in a controlled humidity environment, especially semi-hollows. however you don't want it so humid that things start to corrode.
wingnut1 Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 stringing over the tailpiece is bunk. There's no benefit to doing it. It was necessary back in the day of the 1 piece solid bridges, but since the TOM was invented there's no purpose to it whatsoever. as for humidity, electric guitars like being in a controlled humidity environment, especially semi-hollows. however you don't want it so humid that things start to corrode. I disagree, there is definitely a change in tone when you topwrap over the tail piece. I hear a lighter bluesier tone from my classic 57 pickups in my LP. One thing that you have to be aware of is that you might have to raise your action to get enough break angle over the TOM to keep the strings from sliding out of the saddle notch and keep your sustain.
pegleg32 Posted December 7, 2009 Posted December 7, 2009 I disagree, there is definitely a change in tone when you topwrap over the tail piece. I hear a lighter bluesier tone from my classic 57 pickups in my LP. One thing that you have to be aware of is that you might have to raise your action to get enough break angle over the TOM to keep the strings from sliding out of the saddle notch and keep your sustain. I have wondered what others thought about the angle of the string from the tailpiece to the bridge. I now run my strings through the tailpiece, but I also set it high so that the angle from the tailpiece to the bridge is relatively flat, not completely flat mind you, just not a sharp angle. I am curious if folks think this even matters or have preferences.
big bob Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 we like to keep the humidity here at a constant 90% or, um, I live in florida... it just stays that way..
Gitfiddler Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 we like to keep the humidity here at a constant 90% or, um, I live in florida... it just stays that way.. I wonder what Jay Wolfe does to keep humidity under control in his shop full of archtops and semi-hollows?
hiro Posted December 14, 2009 Author Posted December 14, 2009 Thanks for the replies. I saw the humidity snakes for guitars online, and some other ones like electronic ones with fillable sponges . . . I'll look into that. For Wolfe . . . I think big shops have a a/c / climate control unit, so you could probably program in what humidity your place has. I remember before I was into guitars, I was hanging out with Christian / Gospel group and they were talking about rapid change in humidity and how some famous musician said the Fword when on of his guitars made a muffled firecracker sound from inside the case and when he opened it the finish was spidered. My CG friends tell me their teachers had a old days, walk 10 miles in the hills in snow / rain story. At the time, most places only sold steel string acoustics, and US mexico border towns, one could find flamenco / mariachi guitars with nylon but quality was questionable. Most found that the best quality guitars came from recognized luthier workshops in Spain, so they have a geographical listing of where the workshops were because they didn't have climate control. Madrid was dry so guitars would be more low humidity resistant when bring them over to the US, but shops by the coast would require humidity.
tbonesullivan Posted December 22, 2009 Posted December 22, 2009 here is a pretty good commentary on top wrapping: http://www.rattlesnakeroadhouse.com/10.html
Hfan Posted December 23, 2009 Posted December 23, 2009 When I bought my H575 new in 2006, I e mailed Heritage on this subject. Got a reply. I believe it was from Ren (he is one of the guys there?). He advised to use caution in using the "snake sponge". He had seen some guitars delaminate. He also said that it is more critical to use humidification measures for true hollow bodies. Since the 575 has a center brace (whatever its called) it is more resistant. Wish I still had the e mail. I have a few of the snakes which I have used in recent years in my acoustics with no problems. I use a moderate amount of water in the sponge. I came up with an alternate method...don't know if it actually works..opinions welcome. I put a damp sponge in a plastic bag with holes in it and put the bag in the small compartment inside the Heritage guitar cases (I store my guitars in their cases).. I assume some of the moisture will wind up in the instrument compartment. This seems safer then close contact with the guitar. Happy holidays all. I've been off the site for some months, doing a career change (nursing school), very limited free time. The fingers are rusty and the guitars are gathering dust for now, but I still pick one up rom time to time to keep my sanity somewhat intact.
hiro Posted December 24, 2009 Author Posted December 24, 2009 good on that rattlesnake road house link. Hfan, thanks for that. I came up with a similar idea, except I use pill bottles (round shaped like old school film containers) and drilled holes in the cap and use a plastic paper clip to hold it in the sound hole of my classical and I have two others sitting inthe case for the headstock / fretboard. I use a damp cotton or bunched up paper towel (i found most cotton gets moldy after a few months, but paper towels don't or mold less) inside. The pill bottles are great b/c the child proofing prevents 'accidental' opening.
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