Earvana Hell!

[mtpatty]

Earvana compensated nut installed (with super glue no less) how can i remove it and put a tusq xl on w/o fu**ing up my headstock etc...I am about to go "nuts"...I tried and the exacto- exactly nicked my guitar...I am crying...thanx...

 

Mark

[Blunote]

With acoustics, they can usually be knocked loose. I wouldn't think superglue would adhere that well to porous wood surfaces.

 

But the nuts in Heritage electrics are in a slot that is below the headstock surface. If you take the truss rod cover off you might be able to get underneath it with your exacto and pop it out.

 

If it were me, I'd give that a gentle try and take it to a luthier if a more forceful approach is required.

[rooster]

OK, I've done a few of these. What I do is this:

 

Step one - get a small pack of single-edged razor blades, I would probably go for the .009" ones. ACE hardware sells these in 5 packs and 100 packs. You'd probably be OK with the 5 pack.

 

Step two - VERY carefully, use the corner of the blade to scribe the back of the nut where it goes down into the fiber black headstock material.

 

Step three - this is what I'd do, so bear with me. I'd take a razor saw (X-acto makes a nice blade that'll fit into the large X-acto handle), and extremely carefully, saw through the nut the long way. Be very careful on this part, as you don't want the saw to slip. If you need to, start the slot with a needle file.

 

Step four - When you've cut pretty much all the way through the nut, take a pair of pliers (not needlenose, but just a good set of "bullnose" pliers) and squeeze the nut. This should break off at least 1/2 of the nut, if not both halves. At that point you should be able to worry the other side loose. Super glue shouldn't hold too much, unless they used the gel stuff. If they did that, then when you get the nut out, you could try heating up the tip of a pointed X-acto blade over an alcohol lamp or Zippo, and running it along the glue seam. Heat is a good way to soften super glue.

 

I hope this helps. If they used the supermarket variety "Crazy Glue" type, which is the runniest, you should be OK. If they used the gel or any of the heavier types, you may have to do the heating up thing.

 

Best of luck, man. If you run into problems, eMail Stewart-MacDonald. They have been very helpful in the past, and they seem to have no problem sharing their experience.

 

rooster.

[rooster]

BTW, why are you pulling out the Earvana? I've used them many times and have had nothing but great sound and great pitch with them.

 

rooster.

[Trouble]

Great advice, to further aid you in protecting your finish tape off everything that touches the nut with masking tape. Not foolproof but will help keep you from scratching it. I have used earvana nuts too I liked them.

[barrymclark]

I have played guitars with them and, while they did exactly what they advertise, I just saw them as pointless and, in part, negated the necessity of the TOM bridge. If you spend a ton on a spiffy TonePros, no need to get an Earvana.

 

A good TOM adjustment will get you a great set intonation.

 

What initially tipped me off was the way TOM's are setup on Earvana equipped TOMs. I then went to my Luthier buddies who were approached by Earvana some time ago when they were trying to get their name around. Their response was, "It isn't that it doesn't work. It's just trying to justify spending $35 on a nut whose only trick on a $10 nut is what the TOM bridge already does very well. There comes a point where you are splitting hairs so fine that only people with a Peterson will get it. To those listening to your recordings and jamming out at your shows, they won't know the difference between your Earvana nut guitar and non-Earvana nut guitar." Bear in mind, the set ups I have received from each of these guys are top notch and chords ring true all the way up the neck.

 

I used quotes but that is a shortened version of they all said. In the end, they chose not to endorse or push Earvana simply because of the cost of them but they all said they were quality in make.

[mtpatty]

Maybe, I should just quit stressing over it and leave it...and get myself an excellent set up (intonation etc...) the g string just is "off" to my ears, no matter what I do...

[barrymclark]

Maybe, I should just quit stressing over it and leave it...and get myself an excellent set up (intonation etc...) the g string just is "off" to my ears, no matter what I do...

If you aren't happy, you aren't happy. That is the bottom line. If the Earvana makes it work for you, then awesome. I'd leave well enough alone. If not, well, I'd just go with a regular old nut and, since you have the TonePros bridge, just have it set up well.

[Spectrum13]

I have played guitars with them and, while they did exactly what they advertise, I just saw them as pointless and, in part, negated the necessity of the TOM bridge. If you spend a ton on a spiffy TonePros, no need to get an Earvana.

 

Barry, that makes sense but what about on a stop tail like a 137?

[barrymclark]

Barry, that makes sense but what about on a stop tail like a 137?

Good question. On a guitar with the nonadjustable, but compensated bridge... hmmmm.....

 

I don't recall Earvana honestly having a nut for that... but...

 

My first question is, is your intonation out?

 

I don't believe Earvana specifically has a nut for this type of bridge and there are reasons I say that. One, I don't remember it but that doesn't mean anything. haha. Two, all the Earvana is is the same technology applied at the other end of the neck. You would likely have to get a wraparound that doesn't have that non-adjustable compensation for the Earvana to work. The same reason they say if you want an Earvana on an acoustic, you need the $45 saddle too. If it were me, I'd just get a good adjustable wraparound like the TonePros one. Not the cheapest thing in the world, but it is DAMN HIGH quality. The difference, your current bridge isn't adjustable and isn't, I don't think, acceptable for the Earvana (they'd have to make a nut specifically for this and I don't recall them having one) and the Earvana also isn't adjustable outside of the screw on models.

 

So... if you get the Earvana at $35 and have to get an acceptable bridge for easily $60 and you are already at $100. That TonePros is at $130 or so.

 

Now, I'd honestly contact Earvana as they might very well have a compensated nut to counteract the non-adjustable compensation on a bridge like yours. I've just never seen it. ...and I don't look either. After I formed my final opinion on Earvana, I stopped looking at them.

 

Again, the quesiton is, is there anything wrong with your current setup or are you just looking for mo' betta?

[smurph1]

I have played guitars with them and, while they did exactly what they advertise, I just saw them as pointless and, in part, negated the necessity of the TOM bridge. If you spend a ton on a spiffy TonePros, no need to get an Earvana.

 

A good TOM adjustment will get you a great set intonation.

 

What initially tipped me off was the way TOM's are setup on Earvana equipped TOMs. I then went to my Luthier buddies who were approached by Earvana some time ago when they were trying to get their name around. Their response was, "It isn't that it doesn't work. It's just trying to justify spending $35 on a nut whose only trick on a $10 nut is what the TOM bridge already does very well. There comes a point where you are splitting hairs so fine that only people with a Peterson will get it. To those listening to your recordings and jamming out at your shows, they won't know the difference between your Earvana nut guitar and non-Earvana nut guitar." Bear in mind, the set ups I have received from each of these guys are top notch and chords ring true all the way up the neck.

 

I used quotes but that is a shortened version of they all said. In the end, they chose not to endorse or push Earvana simply because of the cost of them but they all said they were quality in make.

Good Point Barry..I never really thought about it that way, but I think you're right!! But then again I live in West Virginia!

[mtpatty]

Good question. On a guitar with the nonadjustable, but compensated bridge... hmmmm.....

 

I don't recall Earvana honestly having a nut for that... but...

 

My first question is, is your intonation out?

 

I don't believe Earvana specifically has a nut for this type of bridge and there are reasons I say that. One, I don't remember it but that doesn't mean anything. haha. Two, all the Earvana is is the same technology applied at the other end of the neck. You would likely have to get a wraparound that doesn't have that non-adjustable compensation for the Earvana to work. The same reason they say if you want an Earvana on an acoustic, you need the $45 saddle too. If it were me, I'd just get a good adjustable wraparound like the TonePros one. Not the cheapest thing in the world, but it is DAMN HIGH quality. The difference, your current bridge isn't adjustable and isn't, I don't think, acceptable for the Earvana (they'd have to make a nut specifically for this and I don't recall them having one) and the Earvana also isn't adjustable outside of the screw on models.

 

So... if you get the Earvana at $35 and have to get an acceptable bridge for easily $60 and you are already at $100. That TonePros is at $130 or so.

 

Now, I'd honestly contact Earvana as they might very well have a compensated nut to counteract the non-adjustable compensation on a bridge like yours. I've just never seen it. ...and I don't look either. After I formed my final opinion on Earvana, I stopped looking at them.

 

Again, the quesiton is, is there anything wrong with your current setup or are you just looking for mo' betta?

 

Not happy with the set-up...g string won't stay in tune for sh*t...we'll see...thanks for all the help guys!

[brentrocks]

maybe the nut needs lube?

[barrymclark]

Not happy with the set-up...g string won't stay in tune for sh*t...we'll see...thanks for all the help guys!

 

That response was more at Spectrum... but won't stay in tune?

 

Assuming you have stretched out the strings adequately, and insured that the ball on the string is pulled up good and solid into the bridge...

 

...and assuming your tuning keys are solid, it shouldn't be going out of tune.

 

Now, is it a tuning issue or an intonation issue?

[barrymclark]

maybe the nut needs lube?

[Spectrum13]

That response was more at Spectrum... but won't stay in tune?

 

Barry,

 

My 137 stays in tune great and has a matching fossile nut. Intonation is a little off but I like the Wilkenson bridge on it so it's fine.

 

Just looking for a solution for a product developed to solve a problem that does not exist. It reminds me of the thread when Kuz got his 575 and had intonation problems. Ren had him set up on a tuneamatic and then he cut a new woodbridge based on that. Struck me as a genius solution but I doubt that would work for a nut on a junior or other vintage stoptail. You made me think, a little.

[barrymclark]

That response was more at Spectrum... but won't stay in tune?

Barry,

 

My 137 stays in tune great and has a matching fossile nut. Intonation is a little off but I like the Wilkenson bridge on it so it's fine.

 

Just looking for a solution for a product developed to solve a problem that does not exist. It reminds me of the thread when Kuz got his 575 and had intonation problems. Ren had him set up on a tuneamatic and then he cut a new woodbridge based on that. Struck me as a genius solution but I doubt that would work for a nut on a junior or other vintage stoptail. You made me think, a little.

I am trying to confuse conversations here. Sorry. The 'not staying in tune' was directed at the guy I was responding to while telling him what he was responding to was directed at you. haha.

 

Anyways, It could work for a solid body but it would take some major mods. One of the guitar designs I have has been working on has a cut bridge on it.