Fretboard question

[Blunote]

I have two Heritages: Millie Std Ultra and an H150P. The Millie has a bound ebony fretboard with MOP inlays; the 150 is rosewood with dot markers. Fret wire seems the same on both, measuring .090" at the bases using a pair of precision calipers. String width and spacing seems the same, or very similar on both guitars. Setups are also quite similar: approx 5/64 at 12th fret on low E string. No buzz anywhere on either. I'd have no way to measure the fretboard radius or I'd of done that.

 

That said, the Millie frets much easier for me and I find it necessary to exert more force to bar chords on the 150. The B & G string are particularly difficult. Same strings on both: GHS Rockers 10-46.

 

I'd like some ideas on what might be causing this or similar experience?

[tulk1]

Bet the bridges aren't set the same. Check the breakover on the bridge. Bridge height can make the strings feel "stiffer". Post pics if you can.

[Spectrum13]

Have you checked the nuts? Could be the 150 is higher on the G & B.

[Blunote]

Here are some pics of the 150:

 

 

 

Here are a couple pics of the Millie for comparison:

 

Any thoughts are appreciated. I did have an earlier issue with the B & G strings staying in tune. The nut slots were too tight. You can see graphite residue. That seemed to solve the problem.

 

Any way, I've already had one hand surgery. Am hoping not develop other problems due to over straining.

[Blunote]

Lets try this again & see if I can get some better sized pics up....

 

Here are some pics of the 150:

 

 

Here are a couple pics of the Millie for comparison:

[Spectrum13]

B,

 

Capo your first fret and it take the nut out of the equation. Also check if both the 155 & 150 have the same amount of relief. Can't tell from the photos but measure with a guage.

[Blunote]

Thanks for the advice. Can't find my feeler gages but there appeared to be some, but minimal neck relief on both instruments with the 150 having a tad bit more than the Millie. So I adjusted the truss rod nut 1/4 turn. That created immediate problems on the high e string which was buzzing on the first fret no matter how much I raised the bridge. It did seem a little easier to bar the higher frets though but still not as easy as the Millie.

 

Had to wind the truss rod nut back to original position to eliminate the buzz at the first fret on the e string. That makes me think the nut is too short, or cut too deep at that string.

 

I'm thinking that maybe a new nut would be part of the solution.

[pegleg32]

Blunote, from experience similar to yours, get a professional setup, you won't believe the difference it makes.

[Vincelewis]

I have two Heritages: Millie Std Ultra and an H150P. The Millie has a bound ebony fretboard with MOP inlays; the 150 is rosewood with dot markers. Fret wire seems the same on both, measuring .090" at the bases using a pair of precision calipers. String width and spacing seems the same, or very similar on both guitars. Setups are also quite similar: approx 5/64 at 12th fret on low E string. No buzz anywhere on either. I'd have no way to measure the fretboard radius or I'd of done that.

 

That said, the Millie frets much easier for me and I find it necessary to exert more force to bar chords on the 150. The B & G string are particularly difficult. Same strings on both: GHS Rockers 10-46.

 

I'd like some ideas on what might be causing this or similar experience?

 

 

Ok..For my two cents...remember that the angle of the strings from the stop tailpiece to the bridge affects sustain and tension both ...The closer the stop is driven down to the top of your guitars the more tension over the bridge , so sustain and feel is affected there..Also, remember the old super glue and baking soda treatment for shallow nut slots, an easy self repair / adjustment that I got from several techs..Saves a new nut cost and is basically invisible...If the slot is too deep, just tape off the headstock and fingerboard with masking tape, then with a toothpick put a small drop of super glue in the slot...use your finger and rub some baking soda from your fingers and let it fall into the slot, then repeat and put a little more glue on top. Then level and re slot and there you go..It is dry almost immediately and able to be cut ( although I always wait a few hours as I am vvery anal abut my stuff) and is actually a permanent repair / adjustment...It is actually much easier to do that it seems when you are worried abut your GREAT Heritage instrument, and just try it once and you will be convinced...

[Blunote]

Ok..For my two cents...remember that the angle of the strings from the stop tailpiece to the bridge affects sustain and tension both ...The closer the stop is driven down to the top of your guitars the more tension over the bridge , so sustain and feel is affected there..Also, remember the old super glue and baking soda treatment for shallow nut slots, an easy self repair / adjustment that I got from several techs..Saves a new nut cost and is basically invisible...If the slot is too deep, just tape off the headstock and fingerboard with masking tape, then with a toothpick put a small drop of super glue in the slot...use your finger and rub some baking soda from your fingers and let it fall into the slot, then repeat and put a little more glue on top. Then level and re slot and there you go..It is dry almost immediately and able to be cut ( although I always wait a few hours as I am vvery anal abut my stuff) and is actually a permanent repair / adjustment...It is actually much easier to do that it seems when you are worried abut your GREAT Heritage instrument, and just try it once and you will be convinced...

 

That's interesting...I never heard of this before, but may give it a whirl. Looking at nut, the G string seem to be cut deeper.

 

If I understand correctly, are you saying to completely fill the slot with superglue & baking powder then recut the slot?

 

Also, apart from buying a nut file set from Stew-Mac, what do you use to cut and file the nut?