Guido Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 Hi Folks! I have D string buzzing. I tried everything so far: a knew nut, different string gauges, truss rod adjustments and bridge adjustments. Nothing cured the problem so far. Anybody else any other idea? Guido
Guest mgoetting Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 I've had that a few times on the D and G strings. It can be maddening, but there's always a cause. You need a pair of good ears to listen up and down the guitar while you play so you can localize the problem. A capo by the first fret rules out the nut. Raising the action rules out the neck. That leaves something wobbly in the bridge, at least in most cases. Sometimes the buzzing is not amplified. Then it is best to play loud enough to drown it out! Good luck.
maxjeezus Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 I have D string buzzing.Nothing cured the problem so far. Anybody else any other idea? Guido Maybe some frets are not perfecly leveled... search the web for "guitar frets leveling" for more info. Massimo
jrfreed Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 Maybe some frets are not perfecly leveled... search the web for "guitar frets leveling" for more info.Massimo +1 Its probably a high fret
Guido Posted August 12, 2010 Author Posted August 12, 2010 +1 Its probably a high fret But wouldn't a high fret also affect other strings? I mean the fret is only higher under the D string? Sorry doesn't sound logical to me. I messed around with the bridge. I will check the bridge first. But it's already a wireless and rattle free bridge from Faber.
jazzrat Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 This is a stretch but I've had it happen.....a TOM bridge can collapse over time so the radius is flatter that the neck. The problem usually manifests itself with a buzzing D string. If it's a wood bridge maybe the slot wore down enough to cause the problem.
Guido Posted August 12, 2010 Author Posted August 12, 2010 This is a stretch but I've had it happen.....a TOM bridge can collapse over time so the radius is flatter that the neck.The problem usually manifests itself with a buzzing D string. If it's a wood bridge maybe the slot wore down enough to cause the problem. It's an H150 with an TOM bridge from Faber. What does it exactly mean when the bridge collapses?
FredZepp Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 It's an H150 with an TOM bridge from Faber.What does it exactly mean when the bridge collapses?
Spectrum13 Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 I messed around with the bridge. I will check the bridge first. But it's already a wireless and rattle free bridge from Faber. I love the Faber stuff and have their newest bridge. I understand there was a run where the saddles did not seat well and they will replace free of charge. If you put the old hardware back you could eleminate that as a cause. Are the tuners tight in the headstock? Also, does it buzz all the way down the neck or just on one or two frets?
jazzrat Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 What does it exactly mean when the bridge collapses? Most TOM's are 12" radius....the constant pressure from the strings can flatten the radius out so it's less radius. Net result is the middle strings are lower than they should be. If is relatively new I doubt that collapse is the issue. You mention a Faber bridge. that is not stock to Heritage is it? Maybe it's a flatter radius than the fretboard.
smurph1 Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 Most TOM's are 12" radius....the constant pressure from the strings can flatten the radius outso it's less radius. Net result is the middle strings are lower than they should be. If is relatively new I doubt that collapse is the issue. You mention a Faber bridge. that is not stock to Heritage is it? Maybe it's a flatter radius than the fretboard. Hmmm...Velly Intelesting...
jrfreed Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 When frets are installed they file them all down and then crown them...this many times its not a perfect crown or perfectly leveled in one area of the fret. To further boggle the mind I have more/less trouble with this as the weather/humididty changes here in Houston. SO if you've made a change (i.e. different gauge of strings, or a twist to the post on your bridge) this could manifiest itself in a rattle somewhere on the fretboard.
GuitArtMan Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 The original Gbrand ABR-1 bridges were made from zinc, or pot metal, or some such and not really very strong. If you cranked the tail piece all the way down into the body the break angle as the strings cross over the bridge puts excessive downwards pressure on the bridge and eventually causes it to collapse - flatten out. I've killed two ABR-1 style bridges this way. You mentioned you have a Faber bridge which I believe are higher quality metal so I don't believe this is your problem. You mentioned a new nut, different strings, raising the action. My only other guess is that the D string saddle on the bridge is poorly shaped. Maybe the slot isn't filed clean. Does the D string buzz constantly (open and at all frets) or does it only buzz at certain frets?
SouthpawGuy Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 Have you checked that one of the pickups is not vibrating sympathetically with the D string ?
jazzrat Posted August 12, 2010 Posted August 12, 2010 I think, as a test, I would put a little section of plain guitar string or something on the saddle right under the D string to lift it a bit. If the buzzing stops...there you go, that's your problem.
Guido Posted August 13, 2010 Author Posted August 13, 2010 You mentioned a new nut, different strings, raising the action. My only other guess is that the D string saddle on the bridge is poorly shaped. Maybe the slot isn't filed clean. Does the D string buzz constantly (open and at all frets) or does it only buzz at certain frets? Thanks to all of you for your support so far! It's not the bridge. I changed the bridge yesterday and it made no difference. The buzz is all along the fretboard to my ears. But it's definitely worse at the 2nd and 3rd fret. I am not a totally nerd with guitars, so I think I know what I'm doing, but this gets me! I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT'S GOING ON
SouthpawGuy Posted August 13, 2010 Posted August 13, 2010 Thanks to all of you for your support so far! It's not the bridge. I changed the bridge yesterday and it made no difference. The buzz is all along the fretboard to my ears. But it's definitely worse at the 2nd and 3rd fret. I am not a totally nerd with guitars, so I think I know what I'm doing, but this gets me! I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT'S GOING ON Have you checked the truss rod nut isn't loose ?
SouthpawGuy Posted August 13, 2010 Posted August 13, 2010 Thanks to all of you for your support so far! It's not the bridge. I changed the bridge yesterday and it made no difference. The buzz is all along the fretboard to my ears. But it's definitely worse at the 2nd and 3rd fret. I am not a totally nerd with guitars, so I think I know what I'm doing, but this gets me! I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT'S GOING ON Have you checked the truss rod nut isn't loose ? I know you adjusted it but is there a bit of play in it ?
Guido Posted August 13, 2010 Author Posted August 13, 2010 Have you checked the truss rod nut isn't loose ? I know you adjusted it but is there a bit of play in it ? Yes it's tight and firm! The guitar is technically in great condition. One more question: the original Schaller roller bridge has an 14" radius and the faber bridge has an 12" radius. Could that be part of the problem? And does anybody know where to get a TOM bridge with 14" radius?
GuitArtMan Posted August 13, 2010 Posted August 13, 2010 Yes it's tight and firm! The guitar is technically in great condition. One more question: the original Schaller roller bridge has an 14" radius and the faber bridge has an 12" radius. Could that be part of the problem? And does anybody know where to get a TOM bridge with 14" radius? Actually the 12" radius would trend to have the D string higher off of the fingerboard if the low E and high E are set the same. I'm grasping here, but I once bought a dozen set of strings from a manufacture (who shall remain nameless) and he had a batch of bad D strings. At least half of the D strings, if not 2/3 buzzed do to a manufacturing defect (don't worry, they gave me new ones so everything is good). Did you replace the D string with the same brand/gauge? Is it possible you got a bad set of D strings?
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