Kuz
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To me, Relic'd guitars FEEL much better, SOUND much better (less nitro finish), and I don't have to worry about dings. We have been through this before, but many artists including Greg Koch, have stated publicly that the weathered & less finish on relic'd guitars make them ring & sustain better and they have more bloom & overtones. I didn't buy relic'd guitars because of the look, but for the feel and sound. When I bought relic'd/aged guitars, they were either "ultra light" or "light aged" guitars because they look more like vintage aged guitars.
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That is what I thought, but others were referring to it as a 535 when I suspected it was a 530.
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Congrats Rich! She is a Beauty! She is a fully hollow 530, correct?
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I have used Boss, Gator, Boice Box, and currently use Pivotal Pedalbords.
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What size do you want? How many pedals are you going to use? Are you going to be using a pedal looper system or only the pedals themselves? Do you want a 2 tier system? Do you want a hard lid or gig bag? Are you going to be using multiple power supplies? I just finished a pedalboard rebuild that is HUGE and the cost was significant. My pedalboard weighs 40-45lbs. It is perfect for me for use at home with almost all my pedals available at anytime for recording use or just playing at home. I think you need to be more specific to the questions above to get a recommendation.
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Well, considering there are not a lot of manufacturing differences for Heritage between the standard line and the custom core line, and considering they are pricing the custom core line anywhere from 1/2 to 1/3 more than the standards,... then I would say Heritage's profit margin is MUCH higher with the custom core line. And thus, fewer custom core guitars need to be sold to keep a higher profit over the standard line. Also, I think the custom core line has been a HUGE success. Of all the Heritage guitar owners groups forums (obviously here at HOC and on Facebook), the number of owners reporting a new custom core Heritage purchase BY FAR out weighs the number of new standard line Heritage purchases. For me, the lighter weight on my Custom Core 150 has justified it's price. Last night, I played the Aged CC 150 comparing it to my Murphy Ultra Lite aged R9. Other than the different frets on the CC 150, I am not so sure the CC 150 is not a better guitar.... again, validating the price of the custom core line.
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5 Reasons to switch to Modeling Amps - Yes or No?
Kuz replied to DetroitBlues's topic in Amplification and Effects
Weight is not an issue for me. All my tube combo amps are around 35lbs (the all tube Headstrong 'Lil King is even much lighter than that). My pedalboard weighs about the same. I am 58 years old and the day I can't haul 35lbs in and out of the car is the day I will stop playing. I don't need 100 watts or a 4x12 cab, they are super cool but unpractical anymore. Mic the cab and use some monitors. If you do this you can lower the stage volume (use the above mentioned attenuate to lower the stage & overall volume even more). So get in shape, butter cup, LOL 😛 and haul a medium size combo amp, a pedalboard, and one the great new attenuators..... no need to sacrifice tube tone for volume or weight issues. Just my opinion, others may vary. -
5 Reasons to switch to Modeling Amps - Yes or No?
Kuz replied to DetroitBlues's topic in Amplification and Effects
This.... Tone King Ironman II 100-watt Reactive Power Attenuator .... and your volume/tone problems are solved. PERIOD -
When I ordered my 535 P-90, I told Marv Lamb I wanted the first 535 P-90 and the first Marv Lamb wine-burst finish. Rockabilly wanted it bad so he now has it. I was also told that Marv was the only one that sprayed the Marv wine-burst finish himself.
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5 Reasons to switch to Modeling Amps - Yes or No?
Kuz replied to DetroitBlues's topic in Amplification and Effects
I have used both and it is just WAY too hard to do simple editing of presets/patches/simulated pedals when playing live with the direct modeler stuff. I like all my analog pedals available on the board where I can see them and just make a simple level or tone adjustment, by just reaching down and turning the knob on the pedal. What is essential is a Looper for your pedals (like Boss M8 or Gigrig G3) where you can program an infinite number of presets that can turn on/off multiple different pedals with just one step on the board. If editing of any the pedals are needed, just reach down and turn the knobs on the physical pedals. HONESTLY, the Looper & analog pedals combination is the best of both worlds of modeling & tube amps! -
Thanks for the note on your H535.
Tell me more about it.
History? Neck width, at the nut? Neck profile? Is the neck nice and straight without any fret or neck issues? More photos showing the entire guitar? Which pickups does it have? Any other details you can add?
What are you asking for your 535?
I currently have both an H150 and a nice H535, each equipped w/SD 59's.
I appreciate you reaching out....
Thanks again, Tim.
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Tim,
I honestly don't know if I want to sell it. I'm not trying to bait you, that's not how I am. It's just that it was the very first 535 P90s ever made and they made very few 535 P90s over all. I told Ren to email me when they started making 535s with P90s and I wanted the first one. So I custom ordered the guitar.
Specs;
-The guitar is in excellent condition, most would call it mint condition. No rash, no chips, no breaks, no repairs.
-I paid for the upgraded ultra-wood package ($250 upgrade) and it is in Marv's Vintage Merlot Wineburst finish. The wood flame is incredible.
-I had it professional PLEK'd here in Ohio to make the action really comfortable and fast ($200 upgrade). This was right after Heritage stop Pleking the frets because the machine was down for years, but in the last couple years they have started Pleking the frets again. It has a nice large '59 neck carve.
-I had a new vintage upgrade RS guitarworks wiring harness installed ($150 upgrade) so perfect tapper CTS pots and PIO caps.
-I installed Faber locking ABRN bridge and Faber locking aluminum stoptail piece ($250 upgrade) which really increased the sustain and opened up the guitar. I really don't like the look of Nashville bridges (big and clunk) and the strings hit the back of the bridge so the stoptail needs to be raised off the body. The Faber ABRN is locking but also looks like a ABR-1 bridge and the strings don't hit the back of the bridge. The Faber locking Aluminium stoptail is light and REALLY opened up the tone of the guitar.
-It has Kluson deluxe tuners that I prefer the look and lighter weight over the Grover tuners.
-It has Lollar Dogear P90s, which I am told are the same as Lollar's soap bar P90s but I have owned several guitars with both (soapbar and dogear Lollars) and the Lollar's dogear P90s all sounded better to me. I don't know why, but they are fuller with more grit, grunt, and growl... like a good vintage P90 should sound. The Lollar soapbar P90s always sounded a little anemic to me.
-I would have to weigh the guitar again, but It is the perfect weight, I would be surprised if it is over 8lbs.
So again, honestly, I don't know if I want to sell it. The only reason I would sell it, is because I am basically playing, writing, and recording only on my acoustics now that I have quit the Praise band where I played exclusive lead electric for nearly 6 years straight.
The price would be $2700 with free insurance and free shipping to the continental US. Let me know if you are interested at this price and I can send more photos and even facetime to talk more and see it. I have sold many guitars here on HOC and have been a member since 2007, so anyone here will tell you I am honest, fair, and trustworthy.
Sincerely,
John Kuziak
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Mark, it is great when the chemistry of the band comes together and it looks like you are finally there! I love all my guitars and currently don't have any PRS guitars. But I can tell you that from my experience PRS guitars are the most versatile guitars out there. Get a PRS with a Trem and they can sound close to a LP & SG, and the coil tapping is surprisingly good for Strat & Tele tones. If I could only have one guitar for a gig, a Trem equipped PRS with coil tapping would be the one. I will eventually get another PRS DGT, but I have two kids with college expenses right around the corner. And don't let anyone tell you that Guitar -->input cord ---> amp is the only way to play. NO professional plays this way. Clubs don't allow you to play loud enough anymore for amp only distortion. Even Robben Ford uses a zen drive to goose his $50K Dumble. You aren't less of a guitarist if you use pedals. Your tone doesn't suck if you use pedals. Hello, David Gilmore forever has used a clean amp and pedals for his OD/Dist and no complains of his tone. EVERYONE use pedals. One question; How long are you banned from driving? That really stinks. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!
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That's a shame Mark, but you showed a lot of patience. Time to move ahead with a new guitarist. Life is too short not to enjoy yourself playing out at gigs!
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Mark, it is always good to feel vindicated. And why is it that the truth always comes around after the fact? I am glad the band is still together and hope your drummer is up and running (or at least up and walking) soon! Yea, turning on the footswitch for the lights helps. Lately, I learned that plugging the input cord from my pedal board to my amp helps make my guitar sound louder!!!! Ha, ha
