Kuz

I have used Boss, Gator, Boice Box, and currently use Pivotal Pedalbords.

What size do you want? How many pedals are you going to use? Are you going to be using a pedal looper system or only the pedals themselves? Do you want a 2 tier system? Do you want a hard lid or gig bag? Are you going to be using multiple power supplies? I just finished a pedalboard rebuild that is HUGE and the cost was significant. My pedalboard weighs 40-45lbs. It is perfect for me for use at home with almost all my pedals available at anytime for recording use or just playing at home. I think you need to be more specific to the questions above to get a recommendation.

Well, considering there are not a lot of manufacturing differences for Heritage between the standard line and the custom core line, and considering they are pricing the custom core line anywhere from 1/2 to 1/3 more than the standards,... then I would say Heritage's profit margin is MUCH higher with the custom core line. And thus, fewer custom core guitars need to be sold to keep a higher profit over the standard line. Also, I think the custom core line has been a HUGE success. Of all the Heritage guitar owners groups forums (obviously here at HOC and on Facebook), the number of owners reporting a new custom core Heritage purchase BY FAR out weighs the number of new standard line Heritage purchases. For me, the lighter weight on my Custom Core 150 has justified it's price. Last night, I played the Aged CC 150 comparing it to my Murphy Ultra Lite aged R9. Other than the different frets on the CC 150, I am not so sure the CC 150 is not a better guitar.... again, validating the price of the custom core line.

I just started putting D’addario XS 12.5s on my Gibsons acoustics (J-45, Southern Jumbo, SJ-200) and the 12.5s are a perfect goldilock compromise between 12s and 13s. I use my acoustics for singer/songwriter music so I am not bending or using much vibrato much at all. I want volume, tone, feel, & projection from strumming and finger-picking playing so the 12.5s are perfect (in my opinion) for Gibson bigger body acoustics!

I get it, that "Wind Cried Mary" tone is awful!!! (LOL 😛)

I have just lately got back into playing my electric guitars. I went on a 3+ year bender of ONLY playing my acoustics. I did a lot of experimenting with strings and gauges on my acoustics. My conclusion was that most bigger body acoustics(dreadnoughts) thrive with 13s and most smaller body acoustics (small jumbos and OMs) like 12s. But there are some exceptions.... and thus the reason for this reply. I have a beautiful 1957 J-200 Reissue acoustic that you would think based on it's large size would love heavier (13s) strings. But I read many acoustic forums that the heavier strings can "choke" the top and sacrifice tone on a J-200. Well, I didn't believe it until I tried it. Heavier strings (13s) took all the projection and life out of the J-200, so I immediately put 12s back on. So I think string gauges and even brands, can vary from guitar to guitar based on the design and the brand producing the guitar.

And Jimi used 9s... nobody complained about his tone. 🤨

Just my opinion, but I prefer the looks of guitars (especially Gibson & Heritage guitars) WITH the pickguard on the guitar. I always thought the guitars that had the pickguards removed looked hacked, naked, and modified. Plus, the pickguard is really a "finger rest" so it serves as functional part of the guitar as well.

Amen, Brother!

Weight is not an issue for me. All my tube combo amps are around 35lbs (the all tube Headstrong 'Lil King is even much lighter than that). My pedalboard weighs about the same. I am 58 years old and the day I can't haul 35lbs in and out of the car is the day I will stop playing. I don't need 100 watts or a 4x12 cab, they are super cool but unpractical anymore. Mic the cab and use some monitors. If you do this you can lower the stage volume (use the above mentioned attenuate to lower the stage & overall volume even more). So get in shape, butter cup, LOL 😛 and haul a medium size combo amp, a pedalboard, and one the great new attenuators..... no need to sacrifice tube tone for volume or weight issues. Just my opinion, others may vary.

This.... Tone King Ironman II 100-watt Reactive Power Attenuator .... and your volume/tone problems are solved. PERIOD

I was told that when Heritage used to make Archtops, they only tap-tuned the one with floating pickups.... so maybe these are tap-tuned. Personally, I prefer the tone of humbucker archtops. Vince Lewis told me to my face that floating pickup archtops are fine for "solo jazz", but he said if you are going to be playing with other instruments/musicians then floater archtops are near impossible to use. He said the feedback is awful on floater archtops when you play with a band, their volume is too low, and they won't cut through a mix for solos. I respect Vince's opinions.

Every Heritage that I have owned (over 12 of them) I replaced with Faber locking ABR1 bridge and locking stoptail. On Faber's website, it says, "Bridges for Heritage guitars".

I strongly agree with your friend. The Throbak '52/'54 set are nearly as loud as Lollars, but have more character, gritty & grind, while still sounding like that single coil P90 tone.

A couple years ago, I bought a used Collings 290 wraptail from Willcutt Guitars and got a KILLER deal on it. Before I bought it, I asked the store manager (Eric, who is also a good pal of mine) what P-90s are in the guitar. He said that he thought they were Lollar P90s but wasn't exactly sure because it was a used guitar, but he said that what ever P90s are in it I won't want to change them because they sound incredible. The guitar was mint and it was such a good price that I didn't push the issue. I got it home and played it, and they did sound incredible! Well, I changed the stings and looked under the covers.... the guitar came with Throbak '52/'54 P90s!!! My killer deal got EVAN BETTER!!! So yes, I have Throbaks in my Collings 290 wraptail.